点评:Tour: RedMaya Travel - Private Tour (Deluxe) - 10 Attractions of Mangystau in 4 days
Cost: USD$2898 for 2 people (excluding extras - credit card fees, generator)
TL;DR - Don't recommend a private tour, or multi day tour, or tour with an English speaking guide through RedMaya Travel based on our guide and driver, and our experience. Not worth the time, effort, or cost.
Day 3 covering Kyzylkup Tiramisu, Bokty, Bozjyra National Park (Mars Panorama, Dragon Crest), Bozjyra Canyon is the only day of the 4 day tour we did which I would recommend. It would be unlikely to be worth the time, effort, and $$ to visit Mangystau just for this, so I would recommend exploring tours which spend more time focused on this area or skipping Mangystau altogether and spending time elsewhere.
If you are informed your guide will be Agarys and/or Azu your driver, I recommend requesting an alternative guide/driver, and if this cannot be accommodated book with another tour provider or give Mangystau a miss altogether and visit somewhere else.
Guide: Agarys - Rating 2/10 - Bad: Inadequate understanding of English for an English speaking tour guide, guide abilities severely limited - provided little relevant or useful information about where we were visiting, timing etc, focussing more on irrelevant facts/information that may be related to his special interest(s) but had nothing to do with Mangystau, Kazakhstan, or the sites we were seeing. Good: Loaned us sunglasses and sunscreen and seemed to at least try to act as guide for the first day of four day tour.
Driver: Azu - Rating 2/10 - Good: capable safe driver, Toyota 4Runner. Bad: Behaved like he felt he was the main character and everyone else, tourists and guide, were extras. Behaved like he was the only one in the vehicle playing his Kazakh and Russian music loudly without asking whether anyone else minded what we listen to for 6+ hours a day. Behaved like someone with untreated ADHD skipping songs repeatedly part way through, at times hours on end. Behaved like a controlling bully toward guide in particular, which probably made things worse.
At one point our vehicle stopped along with three other RedMaya vehicles while only the drivers all got out to smoke cigarettes together, while guides and tourists sat in the car with no communication/explanation.
We were told on multiple occasions to get in the car to go by guide and driver then ended up waiting for anywhere from 5-10 minutes to 45 minutes while they did other things (5 minutes driver smoking cigarettes, 45 minutes both then deciding to help packing down camp set up despite the deluxe package costing significantly more $ because you are paying for a second service vehicle and people to deal with the camp arrangements and who had set up without help - if we were informed it would be another 45 minutes we would have just walked around).
RedMaya Travel Office: My husband was the one communicating with RedMaya Travel from our initial enquiry to them organising transfers to and from the airport at the start and end of our tour (included in the cost with the deluxe option). Communication from the RedMaya office was always good and efficient. Their work, which gives you a sense of confidence and excitement that it will be a great experience, was let down significantly by the delivery of the tour itself.
However, the planning of our private tour could have been much better. Two RedMaya groups tours started at the same time as our private tour. This meant we would all show up to the same location at the same time. Spending nearly USD$3000 on a private tour it would have been better if, on knowing they were sending out multiple group tours and convoys of vehicles, RedMaya had proposed a change to the order in which we visited attractions so we weren't arriving at places in a long convoy of RedMaya group tour vehicles. Obviously booking a costly private tour you're hoping for a quieter and more peaceful experience.
Tour: Some spectacular and interesting scenery, some less so. Overall, if I could go back in time with what I know now, I would tell my past self not to book a private tour RedMaya Travel or any company that also offers group tours, and that this particular tour is not worth the time, effort, and long days in the car -generally longer than indicated on the itinerary, or $$. I would consider skipping Mangystau and visiting somewhere else instead (e.g. we spent time in Almaty and also did a 4 tour covering highlights around Almaty such as Altyn Emel National Park, Kolsay and Kaindy Lakes, Singing Sand Dunes, Charyn Canyon, Black Canyon, Lunar Canyon etc. If I could go back in time with what I know now, I would tell my past self to only do these experiences in Kazakhstan then spend time in Kyrgyzstan and/or Uzbekistan - I haven't been to either, but having now done this RedMaya tour I would tell myself that visiting another country might be a better option).
Tour Locations:
Day 1: Torsych - Valley of the Balls, Kokala Jurassic Clays, Sherkala Mount, Airakty - Valley of the Castle Mountains - Camping in tent Airakty. Everything was ok and interesting/pretty enough but if considering highlights vs what could be skipped, I would put this day on a skip list if you needed to find more time for other things.
Day 2: Tuzbair Upper, Tuzbair Lower including white arch, and Yurt "village" to sleep - A very long day of driving with limited time spent on activities. We left camp at Airakty at 9am and got to dinner at a restaurant in Shetpe (prepared by our camp chef for us and group tours) at 7:30pm. In between these 10.5 hours we spent 10-15 minutes at Upper Tuzbair, around an hour at lunch most of which was spent (by others) setting up the lunch tent in the harsh windy conditions, 1 hour at lower Tuzbair, the rest driving in the car. While the Tuzbair area is interesting and different and nice to visit, I don't think the time spent on the road vs the time spent looking at the Tuzbair was worth it.
The Yurt village was a place to sleep. A bunch of yurts in lines in a field/paddock. This did not feel like a cultural experience if that's what it was meant to be. The best part was having a comfortable bed, access to a (shared) normal toilet and running water including shower (which wasn't very good). Group tours were staying here at the same time as us but we had our own yurt.
Day 3: Kyzylkup Tiramisu, Bokty, Bozjyra National Park (Mars Panorama, Dragon Crest), Bozjyra Canyon, Camping in tent - Spectacular scenery, often looking like another planet, the things you think of/see when looking up Mangystau - easily the best day. If you can only fit some things in these would be things to prioritise.
Day 4: Bozjyra Fangs Formation (Morning Climb), Return to Acktau. The stated itinerary also said Karagie Hollow but I don't know what this is as we didn't do it (or it was some small thing to simply be pointed out that our incapable guide missed). I am unable to comment as I did not participate in this hike and went on a walk by myself instead- my husband did the hike which was about 1 hour round trip up a hill to a plateau with a view. The rest of the day involved around 3hrs 30 from where we stopped for lunch on the side of the road above Bozjyra Canyon area to Acktau, and before that around an hour to an hour and a half off road prior to this covering the morning activity and exiting the canyon.
Camping: Good: Chef (a lady whose name we were never informed of) did a great job at no doubt a great amount of effort throughout the tour. The meals were mostly Kazakh dishes (various dishes usually involving meat and potatoes) except breakfast where we had eggs or porridge and french toast one day. They always came with a lot of bread, cookies/cakes, fruit and other things to snack on in addition to the main meal. Camp builder (Andrey) was obviously a good driver to get from place to place with a small trailer in tow and did a good job with camp construction/deconstruction. Toilet, while camping, style was good to have.
Bad: One sleeping bag zipper did not work. Camping cots were uncomfortable and no additional layer (other than the sleeping bag) available to add comfort.
Neutral: Realistically I would think the camping aspect would only be enjoyable for people who enjoy camping rough, and would be variously a tolerable to miserable experience for anyone else. No shower provided despite being listed as part of the deluxe package, however conditions would have made showering difficult. Everyone but the guide did not speak English which obviously makes communication around camp more challenging with an English speaking guide with inadequate English language skills.
Environmental Conditions: We went on tour between 4-7 October. We were aware the conditions would be harsh - the winds were at times very strong (e.g. a tent set up to eat a meal in which was hammered into the hard ground with numerous pegs was still flapping about so hard a section caved inwards struck me in the shoulder, eyes might water at times, inhaled a lot of dirt/dust). The weather was otherwise fine and only got cold in the middle of the night.
Toilets - Recommend carrying hand sanitiser, tissues/wipes/toilet paper with you. Toilets, when you find them will more often than not be a hole in the ground in a shed/box (which our guide referred to as a Turkish toilet), or find your own place to go (more challenging for women when you spend hours on the road in flat open plains). A better/more experienced guide would consider the lack of places to go and plan/offer stops where there were toilets/better toilets were located. It took until the third day after we had mentioned we weren't drinking much due to the lack of toilets for our guide and driver to ask if we needed to use a toilet (i.e. the hole in the ground type) when passing through places that had them.
Other: We found the Bozjyra area to be the most spectacular by far so would recommend picking a tour which prioritises time spent in this area.
We booked a generator to charge camera batteries etc at a cost of USD$25 per day charged for 4 days despite being of no use on the 4th day given the itinerary. The generator was not available until the third day/final night of our tour due to the people delivering the tour forgetting to fill it with petrol/gas. We requested a refund for the generator charges in the circumstances and are informed USD$75 of $100 will be processed.
We have been on numerous tours, half day, full day and multi day tours, both private and group tours, throughout Asia - including another 4 day private tour in Kazakhstan with a different provider, and in various parts of Europe, and previously have had average to exceptional guides. Agarys was the first guide we have had whose abilities, more specifically lack thereof, had a negative impact on our experience. Azu while a capable driver was generally awful to be on this tour with for the reasons detailed above. I expect this tour if delivered by an average guide and normal driver could be a 4 star experience, and a great guide and normal driver a 5 star experience. As it was I rate it a 2 star experience.
翻译:行程:RedMaya 旅行社 - 私人豪华游 - 曼格斯套 10 大景点 4 天游
费用:2898 美元(双人游,不含信用卡手续费、发电机等额外费用)
简而言之:根据我们的导游和司机经验,不推荐通过 RedMaya 旅行社进行私人游、多日游或英语导游游。不值得花费时间、精力和金钱。
第三天,我们将游览克孜勒库普提拉米苏、博克蒂、博兹伊拉国家公园(火星全景、龙脊峰),以及博兹伊拉峡谷,这是我们 4 天游中唯一值得推荐的一天。如果只是为了这个景点而去曼格斯套,那么花费时间和精力和金钱可能不太值得,所以我建议你选择一些更专注于该地区的行程,或者干脆跳过曼格斯套,去其他地方游玩。
如果您被告知您的导游是 Agarys 和/或您的司机是 Azu,我建议您要求更换导游/司机。如果无法安排,请预订其他旅行社,或者干脆放弃曼格斯套,去其他地方。
导游:Agarys - 评分 2/10 - 缺点:作为一名英语导游,他的英语理解能力很差,导游能力严重受限——他几乎没有提供关于我们参观地点、时间安排等相关或有用的信息,而是更多地关注一些可能与他个人兴趣相关但与曼格斯套、哈萨克斯坦或我们所参观的景点无关的无关信息。优点:借给我们太阳镜和防晒霜,似乎至少在四日游的第一天尽力充当了导游的角色。
司机:Azu - 评分 2/10 - 优点:驾驶技术娴熟,安全可靠,驾驶丰田 4Runner。缺点:他觉得自己才是主角,而其他人,包括游客和导游,都是配角。他表现得好像车里只有他一个人,大声播放哈萨克语和俄语音乐,根本不问别人是否介意,每天听6个多小时。他的行为就像一个患有未治疗的多动症的人,在听歌过程中反复跳过歌曲,有时甚至连续几个小时。他尤其对导游表现出控制欲极强的霸凌行为,这可能让情况变得更糟。
有一次,我们的车和其他三辆RedMaya的车一起停了下来,只有司机下车一起抽烟,而导游和游客则坐在车里,没有任何交流或解释。
我们多次被告知要上车,导游和司机会带我们去,结果我们等了5-10分钟到45分钟不等,而他们却在做其他事情(司机抽烟5分钟,两人都等了45分钟,然后才决定帮忙收拾营地,尽管豪华套餐的价格要高得多,因为要支付第二辆服务车的费用,还要支付安排营地的人员的费用,而且这些人员是自己搭建的——如果我们被告知还要再等45分钟,我们肯定就只能四处走动了)。
RedMaya 旅行社:从我们最初咨询 RedMaya 旅行社,到他们安排我们旅行开始和结束时的机场接送(豪华套餐包含接送服务),都是我丈夫负责与 RedMaya 旅行社沟通。RedMaya 旅行社的沟通一直都很好,效率很高。他们的工作让人充满信心,也让人兴奋,相信这将是一次很棒的体验,但旅行本身的安排却让人大失所望。
然而,我们私人旅行的规划本来可以做得更好。两个RedMaya的旅行团和我们的私人团同时出发。这意味着我们会同时到达同一个地点。我们花了近3000美元参加私人团,如果RedMaya知道他们派出了多个旅行团和车队,并建议我们调整景点的游览顺序,这样我们就不用挤在长长的RedMaya旅行团车队里了。显然,预订昂贵的私人团,你希望的是更安静、更平和的体验。
行程:有些景色壮观有趣,有些则不然。总而言之,如果我能回到过去,我会告诉过去的自己不要预订RedMaya Travel或任何提供团体游的公司提供的私人团,而且这种旅行不值得花费时间、精力和长时间的车程——通常比行程单上注明的时间更长,或者说花费更多。我会考虑不去曼格斯套,去其他地方(比如,我们在阿拉木图待了一段时间,还参加了一次四日游,涵盖了阿拉木图周边的亮点,例如阿尔金埃梅尔国家公园、廓里塞湖和凯因德湖、鸣沙丘、恰伦峡谷、黑峡谷、月亮峡谷等等。如果我能回到过去,我会告诉过去的自己,只在哈萨克斯坦体验这些地方,然后再去吉尔吉斯斯坦和/或乌兹别克斯坦——我这两个地方都没去过,但这次RedMaya之旅之后,我会告诉自己,去其他国家或许是更好的选择)。
旅游地点:
第一天:托尔西奇 - 球之谷科卡拉侏罗纪粘土,谢尔卡拉山,艾拉克蒂 - 城堡山山谷 - 在艾拉克蒂的帐篷里露营。一切都还不错,也足够有趣/漂亮,但如果要考虑亮点和可以跳过的地方,如果你需要更多时间做其他事情,我会把这一天列入跳过清单。
第二天:图兹拜尔上段、图兹拜尔下段(包括白色拱门)以及蒙古包“村庄”——这一天开车很长,活动时间有限。我们早上9点离开艾拉克蒂的营地,晚上7:30在谢特佩的一家餐厅吃了晚餐(营地厨师为我们和旅行团准备了晚餐)。在这10.5个小时里,我们在图兹拜尔上段待了10-15分钟,午餐时间大约一个小时,其中大部分时间(其他人)都在强风中搭建午餐帐篷,在图兹拜尔下段待了一个小时,其余时间都在开车。虽然图兹拜尔地区很有趣,很独特,值得一游,但我觉得路上的时间和欣赏图兹拜尔的时间相比,不值得。
蒙古包村就是个睡觉的地方。田野/围场里成排排列着一堆蒙古包。如果这本来就是一次文化体验的话,感觉不像是一次体验。最棒的是能有一张舒适的床,一个(共用的)普通厕所,还有自来水和淋浴(效果不太好)。跟团游和我们同时入住,但我们有自己的蒙古包。
第三天:克孜勒库普提拉米苏、博克特、博兹伊拉国家公园(火星全景、龙脊)、博兹伊拉峡谷、帐篷露营——壮丽的景色,常常看起来像另一个星球,仰望曼格斯套时想到/看到的景象——这无疑是最棒的一天。如果你只能安排一些事情,这些事情应该优先考虑。
第四天:博孜吉拉尖牙组(清晨攀登),返回阿克套。行程单上也提到了卡拉吉山谷,但我不知道这是什么,因为我们没去(或者只是我们那位不称职的导游漏掉了一些小细节)。我无法评论,因为我没有参加这次徒步,而是自己徒步——我丈夫完成了这次徒步,大约一个小时的往返,爬上一座山,到达一个可以欣赏美景的高原。当天剩下的时间大约是3小时30分钟,从我们在博孜吉拉峡谷上方路边停下来吃午饭的地方到阿克套,在此之前,我们大约在越野行驶了一个小时到一个半小时,结束了上午的活动,然后离开了峡谷。
露营:好:厨师(一位我们从未被告知姓名的女士)在整个旅程中都表现出色,毫无疑问她付出了巨大的努力。餐食大多是哈萨克菜肴(各种菜肴通常包含肉类和土豆),除了早餐,我们有一天会吃鸡蛋或粥和法式吐司。除了主餐外,他们还会提供很多面包、饼干/蛋糕、水果和其他零食。营地搭建人(Andrey)显然是个好司机,他拖着一辆小拖车从一个地方到另一个地方,而且营地搭建/拆除工作做得也很出色。露营时,厕所的风格很不错。
缺点:一个睡袋拉链坏了。露营床很不舒服,除了睡袋外没有其他额外的衣物可以增加舒适度。
中评:实际上,我认为只有喜欢野外露营的人才能享受露营的乐趣,而对于其他人来说,露营体验要么可以忍受,要么很糟糕。虽然豪华套餐中没有淋浴,但淋浴确实很困难。除了导游,其他人都不会说英语,这显然使得在营地里与英语水平不足的英语导游沟通更加困难。
环境条件:我们于10月4日至7日期间出行。我们意识到天气条件会很恶劣——有时风很大(例如,一个用来吃饭的帐篷,用无数的钉子钉在坚硬的地面上,还在剧烈地摇晃,其中一个向内塌陷的部分击中了我的肩膀,眼睛有时会流泪,吸入了很多泥土/灰尘)。除此之外,天气晴朗,只有在半夜才会变冷。
厕所 - 建议随身携带洗手液、纸巾/湿巾/卫生纸。厕所,通常情况下,你会在一个棚子/箱子里挖一个洞(我们的导游称之为土耳其厕所),或者你可以自己找个地方上厕所(对于女性来说,在平坦开阔的平原上行驶数小时会更困难)。更优秀/更有经验的导游会考虑到可去地方的稀缺,并规划/推荐有厕所/更方便的厕所。直到第三天,我们提到由于没有厕所,我们喝得不多,导游和司机才在经过有厕所的地方时询问我们是否需要使用厕所(也就是地上挖洞的那种)。
其他:我们认为博孜季拉(Bozjyra)地区是迄今为止最壮观的,因此建议选择优先安排在该地区游览的行程。
我们预订了一台发电机,用于为相机电池等充电,每天25美元,充了4天,尽管考虑到行程安排,第4天发电机根本没用。由于导游忘记给发电机加满油,发电机直到行程的第三天/最后一晚才可用。在这种情况下,我们申请了发电机费用的退款,被告知将退还100美元中的75美元。
我们参加过许多旅行团,有半日游、全日游和多日游,既有私人游,也有团体游,足迹遍布亚洲——包括另一个由其他旅行社提供的哈萨克斯坦4日私人游,以及欧洲各地。之前遇到的导游服务也参差不齐,甚至有些优秀。Agarys是我们遇到的第一位导游,她的能力,确切地说是能力欠缺,给我们的体验带来了负面影响。 Azu虽然是个技术娴熟的司机,但由于上述原因,这次行程总体来说很糟糕。我估计,如果这次行程由一个普通的导游和普通的司机驾驶,可能会是四星级的体验;如果由一个优秀的导游和普通的司机驾驶,可能会是五星级的体验。但就目前而言,我给它打了两星。