点评:Five stars for the porters and chefs, one star for our guide, averaged to three.
There really aren't words to describe how amazing the porters are. They are the heart of the operation, without question. They carry impossible loads at unbelievable speeds, and they genuinely seemed to be a tight-knit group who enjoyed working together, a camaraderie I didn't necessarily see in other groups. The food was outstanding. The chef and assistant chef prepared gourmet meals each evening that would rival many fine restaurants.
I chose Evolution because of how they described their treatment of porters, and I did see that their porters had tents every night, unlike porters from other groups we saw sleeping on cement under whatever overhang they could find. I also chose them because they say they were the first company to hire women porters. We had an incredible woman porter in our group, Rosa. I didn't love that she seemed to be paraded around, to her own discomfort, as proof. Giving women the opportunity is enough. They shouldn't have to perform being a woman for tourists.
I had hoped for more from our guide, Marco, who honestly did the bare minimum. He was clearly sick with a cold, and I'm grateful he powered through, but we spent roughly 40% of the trek without a guide. He would stay behind and tell us he'd catch up, with directions like "if the path forks, always stay right." Outside the ruins, he taught us exactly one thing on the trail, about the white insects used to make red dye. At camp, he went straight to his tent and didn't reappear until dinner. When he was with us, he often walked right behind us to speed us up while repeatedly telling us how patient he was. He would offer us a choice between two options when it was obvious only one was acceptable. Then at Machu Picchu, the pacing flipped: he spent so long on his tour that we had no time left to explore on our own.
He never asked us a single question, not even "where are you from?" Conversation was mostly him monologuing about how bad other companies were. One moment stuck with me. When a porter hurt his ankle, my partner, who is a doctor, offered to help. Marco instead asked him for pills for his own sore throat, and over the four days he went through all of our Advil. I've been on countless tours and have never had a less engaged guide.
One practical warning: our group was supposed to be eight, but a family of five cancelled at the last minute, leaving just three of us. We were asked to cover that family's share of tips, so the company's suggested tip of around 10% of the tour price became roughly a third. The porters and chefs absolutely deserve it, but be aware that cancellations can make this a much more expensive trip. When I did the trail 20 years ago as a broke student, that would have been impossible.
Also worth knowing: I assumed all "classic Inca Trail" trips followed the same daily schedule. They don't. Companies split the distance differently, with some putting the longest day first and others saving it for last. If you have a preference, check the day-by-day route before booking.
Overall, I would consider Evolution again, but only if I could be sure we wouldn't have the same guide. It comes with fewer frills at a higher price, but I felt good knowing our porters were treated better than those with other companies.
翻译:给搬运工和厨师五星评价,导游则只配一颗星,综合下来就是三星。
实在找不到合适的词语来形容这些搬运工有多出色。毫无疑问,他们是整个团队的支柱。他们能以惊人的速度搬运极重的货物,而且看起来确实是一个团结紧密的群体,乐在其中地一起工作——这种默契和情谊在其他团队中我可没见到过。食物也堪称一流。每晚,主厨和副厨都会烹制出堪比各大高端餐厅的美味佳肴。
我选择Evolution这家公司,是因为他们对自己对待背夫方式的描述令人信服。我确实看到他们的背夫每晚都能拥有帐篷可住,而其他团队的背夫则只能睡在水泥地上,或者躲在能找到的任何遮雨处。我选择他们的另一个原因是,据称他们是第一家雇佣女性背夫的公司。我们团队中就有位非常出色的女性背夫,名叫罗莎。我不太喜欢那种为了作为“例证”而让女性在众人面前展示自己的做法,这让她们感到很不自在。给女性机会就足够了,她们没必要为了游客而刻意去展现“女性特质”。
我原本对我们的导游马可抱有更多期待,但实际上他只做了最起码的工作而已。他显然患了感冒,我很感激他仍坚持带团;不过在整个徒步过程中,大概有40%的时间我们都没有导游陪伴。他总是落在后面,然后告诉我们他会赶上来的,给出的指示也仅仅是“如果路分岔了,就一直往右走”之类的话。“在遗迹外,他在路上只教了我们一件事,就是关于用来制作红色染料的白色昆虫。在营地时,他直接回到自己的帐篷,直到晚餐时间才再次出现。和我们在一起时,他常常走在我们正后方催促我们加快脚步,还反复强调自己有多有耐心。明明只有一种选择是可以接受的,他却会给我们两个选项让我们挑选。后来在马丘比丘,。”节奏完全颠倒了:他带我们参观的时间实在太长,以至于我们根本没有时间自行探索。
他从未问过我们任何一个问题,甚至连“你们从哪儿来?”都没问。整个交谈基本上都是他在单方面抱怨其他公司有多糟糕。有个场景让我印象深刻:有个搬运工扭伤了脚踝,身为医生的我的搭档主动提出帮忙。可马尔科却向他要药片来治疗自己的喉咙痛,在随后的四天里,他把我们带的所有Advil止痛药都吃光了。我参加过无数次旅游团,但从没遇到过像这次这样消极怠工的导游。
一个实用的提醒:原定我们有八人参加,但有一家五口在最后时刻取消了行程,最后就只剩下我们三人。我们被要求支付那家人原本该付的小费,这样一来,原定为旅游费用约10%的小费数额就变成了约三分之一。那些行李搬运工和厨师绝对值得获得这些报酬,不过大家也需注意:如果有人临时取消行程,可能会让旅行成本大幅上升。20年前,我还是个身无分文的学生,那时要完成这条路线根本不可能。
还有一点值得注意:我原以为所有“经典印加古道”之旅的每日行程安排都大同小异。其实并非如此。各旅行社对行程距离的分配方式各不相同:有的把最艰难的一天安排在最先,有的则留到最后。如果你有特别偏好,预订前务必仔细查看每日的行程安排。
总的来说,我仍会考虑选择Evolution旅行社,但前提是能确保我们不会遇到同一个导游。虽然它的附加服务较少且价格较高,但一想到我们的搬运工得到了比其他公司员工更好的待遇,我就感到很欣慰。