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Quiet but Powerful Glimpse of Malagasy River Life
Manambolo River的点评
点评：Dozens of pirogues are lined up along the river, peaceful workhorses of the Manambolo River and its Malagasy people. Some just show wood; others have been painted in colorful ways while old ones are patched with various types of plastics.
Locals tie two pirogues together to take us up and down this opaque milk-tea colored river. Most locals use single pirogues unless they are transporting something too large for just one – like a motorcycle for example. It is more stable especially for people like us, not used to narrow dugouts, who could, on the spur of the moment, quickly reach for their camera for an original photo, forgetting that they can’t move that way without possibly upsetting the fragile balance for everyone aboard.
The Manambolo River flows into the Indian Ocean, carving out isolated cliffs and steep slopes reaching up to 260 feet (80m) in height along its course. Float up and down between its colorful and at times water-stained banks to experience a wild landscape interspersed with the laughter of kids or songs of locals drifting by.
The excursion lasts about 90 minutes, and it takes you to the Swallow Cave (Grotte des Hirondelles), the Glotte Cave (Uvula Cave), and a place of rest for the departed.
It is so nice to see the Malagasy life from a watery perspective. We passed by a woman and her daughter net-fishing for shrimp. They proudly showed us their meager, to me, catch. We crossed several pirogues filled with very well-dressed women with large hats covering their intricate hairdos. I don’t know what events they were all going to, but they were not dressed to work in the fields. We also crossed people carrying huge bags of rice or other food as they were talking to one another as they crossed paths.
As many, I was a bit disappointed about the burial ‘caves’ of ancient dwellers. They were way up the face of the palisade and were difficult to see. It is, however, the point of using this location – to be as difficult and remote to access as possible, for protection. It was just in the way it was portrayed before we left for this trip. I has assumed I could see them more up-close.
I thought it was interesting that our poler (the person pushing the pirogue with a long flexible pole) either wore flip-flops or was barefoot during this trip and that when he was going with the current, he nonchalantly used just one hand as he was on his cellphone with the other. When he was going against the current, however, he was grimacing, and using both hands, no longer on the phone. It was much more difficult going back to camp against the flow.
We saw birds, orange flowers, vines with huge seed pods (2-3 feet long), many interesting plants overhanging the waterway and great rock formations from nearly white to dark red. We had to dodge a few sticks indicating where some of the fishermen left traps they would come back later to inspect.
At sunrise, the colors are spectacular – in my opinion, the best time to do this + it’s also cooler.
A bit touristic? Yes – but still worth it – especially if you love being in nature or are a people watcher. Enjoy!
Locals tie two pirogues together to take us up and down this opaque milk-tea colored river. Most locals use single pirogues unless they are transporting something too large for just one – like a motorcycle for example. It is more stable especially for people like us, not used to narrow dugouts, who could, on the spur of the moment, quickly reach for their camera for an original photo, forgetting that they can’t move that way without possibly upsetting the fragile balance for everyone aboard.
The Manambolo River flows into the Indian Ocean, carving out isolated cliffs and steep slopes reaching up to 260 feet (80m) in height along its course. Float up and down between its colorful and at times water-stained banks to experience a wild landscape interspersed with the laughter of kids or songs of locals drifting by.
The excursion lasts about 90 minutes, and it takes you to the Swallow Cave (Grotte des Hirondelles), the Glotte Cave (Uvula Cave), and a place of rest for the departed.
It is so nice to see the Malagasy life from a watery perspective. We passed by a woman and her daughter net-fishing for shrimp. They proudly showed us their meager, to me, catch. We crossed several pirogues filled with very well-dressed women with large hats covering their intricate hairdos. I don’t know what events they were all going to, but they were not dressed to work in the fields. We also crossed people carrying huge bags of rice or other food as they were talking to one another as they crossed paths.
As many, I was a bit disappointed about the burial ‘caves’ of ancient dwellers. They were way up the face of the palisade and were difficult to see. It is, however, the point of using this location – to be as difficult and remote to access as possible, for protection. It was just in the way it was portrayed before we left for this trip. I has assumed I could see them more up-close.
I thought it was interesting that our poler (the person pushing the pirogue with a long flexible pole) either wore flip-flops or was barefoot during this trip and that when he was going with the current, he nonchalantly used just one hand as he was on his cellphone with the other. When he was going against the current, however, he was grimacing, and using both hands, no longer on the phone. It was much more difficult going back to camp against the flow.
We saw birds, orange flowers, vines with huge seed pods (2-3 feet long), many interesting plants overhanging the waterway and great rock formations from nearly white to dark red. We had to dodge a few sticks indicating where some of the fishermen left traps they would come back later to inspect.
At sunrise, the colors are spectacular – in my opinion, the best time to do this + it’s also cooler.
A bit touristic? Yes – but still worth it – especially if you love being in nature or are a people watcher. Enjoy!
翻译：数十艘独木舟整齐地排列在河岸上，它们是马纳姆博洛河上勤劳而可靠的“工作伙伴”，也深受马达加斯加当地人的喜爱。有些独木舟仅露出原木本色；另一些则被涂上了色彩斑斓的图案；而那些年久失修的独木舟上，则用各种塑料材料进行修补。
当地人会把两艘独木舟绑在一起，载着我们在这条呈奶茶色的浑浊河流上往返航行。大多数当地人只使用一艘独木舟，除非需要运送体积过大、单艘船无法承载的物品——比如摩托车之类的。它更加稳定，尤其适合我们这类不习惯狭窄船舱的人。我们常常会一时兴起，迅速伸手去拿相机拍摄独特的照片，却忘了这样行动很可能会破坏船上所有人所依赖的那种微妙的平衡。
马南博洛河最终注入印度洋，沿途形成了许多孤立的悬崖和陡峭的坡面，其高度可达260英尺（80米）。在色彩斑斓且偶尔被水渍染湿的河岸之间随波漂浮，便能领略到这片充满野趣的风景——耳边还能听到孩子们的欢笑声以及当地人哼唱的歌谣。
这次游览大约持续90分钟，沿途会经过燕儿洞（Grotte des Hirondelles）、悬雍垂洞（Uvula Cave），还有一处供奉亡者的场所。
从水面上观察马达加斯加人的生活真是妙不可言。我们还看到一位妇女正和女儿一起用网捕捞虾子。他们自豪地向我们展示在他们看来算是不错的收获——虽然在我看来数量很少。我们穿过了好几艘独木舟，上面坐着穿着考究的女性，她们戴着大帽子来固定精心打理的发型。我不知道她们都要去参加什么活动，但她们的穿着显然不适合下地干活。我们还遇到了一些人，他们扛着大袋大袋的大米或其他食物，彼此交谈着，擦肩而过。
和很多人一样，我对那些古代居民的“墓葬洞窟”也略感失望。他们身处城墙的很高处，很难被看到。不过，选择这个地点的目的正是为了尽可能增加进入的难度并使其难以接近，以此起到保护作用。实际情况也正如我们出发前所预想的那样。我原以为能更近距离地看到他们呢。我觉得挺有意思的是，这次旅行中我们的划船人（用一根长而柔软的竿子来推动独木舟的人）要么穿着人字拖，要么光着脚；当顺流而行时，他漫不经心地只用一只手操控船只，另一只手则在打电话。然而当逆流而行时，他便皱起眉头，双手并用，也不再打电话了。逆着水流返回营地要困难得多。
我们看到了鸟儿和橙色的花朵。那里有结着巨大种荚的藤本植物（种荚长度可达2-3英尺），还有许多有趣的植物垂悬在水道之上；岩石形态各异，颜色从近乎白色到深红色都有。我们还得避开一些木棍——那些是渔民们用来标记捕鱼陷阱位置的标记，他们稍后会回来检查这些陷阱。
日出时分，景色尤为壮观——在我看来，这是游览的最佳时机，而且此时天气也更凉爽。
有点像旅游景点吗？确实如此——但仍然值得一去——尤其适合热爱大自然或喜欢观察人群的人。尽情享受吧！
当地人会把两艘独木舟绑在一起，载着我们在这条呈奶茶色的浑浊河流上往返航行。大多数当地人只使用一艘独木舟，除非需要运送体积过大、单艘船无法承载的物品——比如摩托车之类的。它更加稳定，尤其适合我们这类不习惯狭窄船舱的人。我们常常会一时兴起，迅速伸手去拿相机拍摄独特的照片，却忘了这样行动很可能会破坏船上所有人所依赖的那种微妙的平衡。
马南博洛河最终注入印度洋，沿途形成了许多孤立的悬崖和陡峭的坡面，其高度可达260英尺（80米）。在色彩斑斓且偶尔被水渍染湿的河岸之间随波漂浮，便能领略到这片充满野趣的风景——耳边还能听到孩子们的欢笑声以及当地人哼唱的歌谣。
这次游览大约持续90分钟，沿途会经过燕儿洞（Grotte des Hirondelles）、悬雍垂洞（Uvula Cave），还有一处供奉亡者的场所。
从水面上观察马达加斯加人的生活真是妙不可言。我们还看到一位妇女正和女儿一起用网捕捞虾子。他们自豪地向我们展示在他们看来算是不错的收获——虽然在我看来数量很少。我们穿过了好几艘独木舟，上面坐着穿着考究的女性，她们戴着大帽子来固定精心打理的发型。我不知道她们都要去参加什么活动，但她们的穿着显然不适合下地干活。我们还遇到了一些人，他们扛着大袋大袋的大米或其他食物，彼此交谈着，擦肩而过。
和很多人一样，我对那些古代居民的“墓葬洞窟”也略感失望。他们身处城墙的很高处，很难被看到。不过，选择这个地点的目的正是为了尽可能增加进入的难度并使其难以接近，以此起到保护作用。实际情况也正如我们出发前所预想的那样。我原以为能更近距离地看到他们呢。我觉得挺有意思的是，这次旅行中我们的划船人（用一根长而柔软的竿子来推动独木舟的人）要么穿着人字拖，要么光着脚；当顺流而行时，他漫不经心地只用一只手操控船只，另一只手则在打电话。然而当逆流而行时，他便皱起眉头，双手并用，也不再打电话了。逆着水流返回营地要困难得多。
我们看到了鸟儿和橙色的花朵。那里有结着巨大种荚的藤本植物（种荚长度可达2-3英尺），还有许多有趣的植物垂悬在水道之上；岩石形态各异，颜色从近乎白色到深红色都有。我们还得避开一些木棍——那些是渔民们用来标记捕鱼陷阱位置的标记，他们稍后会回来检查这些陷阱。
日出时分，景色尤为壮观——在我看来，这是游览的最佳时机，而且此时天气也更凉爽。
有点像旅游景点吗？确实如此——但仍然值得一去——尤其适合热爱大自然或喜欢观察人群的人。尽情享受吧！
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