点评:I didn’t stay at this park, but I did two different hikes while staying overnight outside the park. From the negative reviews I read here, I’m glad I stayed nearby but not on the premises.
One hike was at night, the other one, early in the morning and each had different animals to see. I saw many brown lemurs, some with babies attached. We watched them for probably 10-15 minutes interacting with one another, jumping, drinking from the water offered poured inside a large empty forest snail shell (the guides are not allowed to give them any food, only water). Water being a rare commodity, the lemurs will come to drink. We had to wait about two minutes for them to show up once water was made available to them. One guide stated that some lemurs must walk up to 10km/day for water – that’s how hard it is to come by.
I also saw a couple types of chameleons, some nocturnal lemurs, a couple of owls, and, for the grand finale, a fossa.
There are several crisscrossing trails within the park so that the various groups, even though covering the same area and distance, can be separated while looking for animals. The guides have their own special whistles/language to alert one another of what they are seeing. Saying – ‘come over here, we see an owl’ or ‘go over there, we just passed a mouse lemur’. They work in teams as much as they can so you can see as many animals as possible. Once my guide heard a special whistle, she suddenly changed course so we could see an owl and then returned to our trail for more exploring.
It is also noticeable that some animals stay in the same ‘hidden’ locations, so the guides already know where to look though they try to appear as if they are surprised to find them (I did two different hikes with two different guides, and we saw the same animals in the same locations).
I was lucky enough to see the famous and difficult to find fossa as well but only on the second day, in the morning. We were away on another trail when we heard a loud call by one of the other guides – we all ran towards that call to see the fossa. Although the fossa is supposed to be a nocturnal animal, I didn’t see it the night before, only that morning.
I agree with many reviewers, it’s probably best not to go in hot afternoons because the animals are then resting, hiding from the sun and the heat, not being active – meaning there are fewer of them to see then.
My only complaint is that I think that the guides should be keeping visitors from getting too close to the fossa (or any other animals but especially the fossa since it is the focus of most visitors coming to Kirindy), which stresses the animal out. An extremely selfish person went as close as only a foot from the fossa while none of us could see it or take pictures of it. Guides should tell folks, if you get too close, we will remove you – giving everyone a chance to see these beautiful animals without stressing them that much.
Finally, I find it odd to read people’s reviews complaining about the lack of animals they get to see. Simply put, no one can plan their whereabouts – it’s nature – you’re lucky if you even see just one animal. The entitlement that some people demand or expect to always see animals is a bit confounding to me. It’s not like being in a zoo. This park is not a zoo – nature will do what it does best, being unpredictable. Please find the wisdom to enjoy that too.
翻译:我没有在这个公园里过夜,不过在公园外留宿期间进行了两次徒步。看了这里的一些负面评价后,我很庆幸自己只是住在附近而非公园内。
一次徒步是在夜晚进行的,另一次则是在清晨。每次都能看到不同的动物。我看到了许多棕狐猴,其中一些还带着幼崽。我们大概花了10到15分钟观察它们互相嬉戏、跳跃的样子。它们从一个巨大的空森林蜗牛壳中喝着被倒进去的水(向导们不允许给它们任何食物,只能提供水)。由于水是一种极其稀缺的资源,这些狐猴便会前来饮水。一旦有水可喝,我们只需等待大约两分钟,它们就会出现。一位向导说,有些狐猴为了找水每天不得不行走10公里之远——由此可见水有多么难以获得。
我还看到了几种变色龙、一些夜行性狐猴、几只猫头鹰,还有……在最后环节,我们观察了狐獴。
公园里有许多纵横交错的小径,这样即便各个小组行走的路线和距离相同,也能在寻找动物的过程中保持分散。向导们有自己专属的口哨信号或暗语,用来互相通报所看到的动物情况——比如“过来这里,我们看到一只猫头鹰”或者“去那边吧,我们刚看到一只小狐猴”。他们尽可能以小组形式行动,这样游客就能看到尽可能多的动物。我的向导听到一种特殊的口哨声后,立刻改变了行进方向,带我们去观看一只猫头鹰,随后又回到原定路线上继续探索。
另外还可以注意到,有些动物会停留在相同的“隐蔽”地点,因此向导们早就知道该去哪里寻找它们;不过他们仍会装作惊讶地发现这些动物的样子。(我分别跟着两位不同的向导进行了两次徒步旅行,结果都在相同的地点看到了相同的动物。)我很幸运,也看到了那种极为罕见且难以寻见的马岛獴,不过是在第二天的早上。当时我们正在另一条步道上行走,忽然听到另一位向导发出了响亮的呼喊声——我们立刻朝声音来源处奔去,想看看那只马岛獴。虽然马岛獴本应是夜行性动物,但我前一天晚上并未见到它,只在那天早上才看到。
我同意许多评论者的观点:最好避免在炎热的午后前往,因为那时动物们都在休息。它们躲在阴凉处躲避阳光和高温,也不怎么活动——也就是说,这样一来能看到的个体就变少了。
我唯一的不满是,我觉得导游应该阻止游客靠 fossa 太近(或者其他任何动物,但尤其要防止靠近 fossa,因为它是大多数前来基林迪的游客最想看到的动物),那样会让动物感到紧张。有个极其自私的人竟然凑到离 fossa 仅一英尺的距离,而我们其他人却根本看不见它,也无法给它拍照。导游应该告知游客:如果靠得太近,我们会将您带离——这样每个人都有机会观赏这些可爱的动物,同时又不会让它们感到过度紧张。
最后,看到有人在评论中抱怨没能看到多少动物,我觉得挺奇怪的。简单来说,谁也无法预测动物的行踪——毕竟这是大自然的规律;就算能见到一只动物,那也算你运气不错了。有些人总觉得自己理应随时都能看到动物,这种心态让我有些费解。这并不像身处动物园。这个公园并非动物园——大自然会发挥其最擅长的本事,那就是不可预测。愿您也能领悟到其中的奥妙并乐在其中。