点评:Don't do what we did and research the details a little better :-) Our story of two clearly unprepared dinkuses (me, 34F, husband 36M) set on a lil' day hike who only surface-planned it. What does that mean? We knew which route we wanted to take -- Subashiri trail from 5th station, because shorter and less crowded. we knew we needed to take two buses from Shinjuku, we knew people did it in 1 day, we knew it was chilly up top so we brought layers. What we didn't know? Basically everything else.
First week of September, really lucked out with a sunny day, little winds. Started at Shinjuku station 7:35am, we took Odakyu Highway Express bus to Gotemba (1800yen one way per person). It was supposed to be 1hr25 mins, however, on the last 2 miles we hit a horrible traffic jam due to a flipped car and this pushed us back by over an hour. We arrived at Gotemba and the next bus to Subashiri trail wasn't leaving until 10:35 (2700yen roundtrip per person). This bus ride is 60-65 mins in ideal conditions with no traffic. Per our brief "planning session", our expectation was a "quick ride from Gotemba to 5th" (as Google kindly described it).
Make sure to bring cash, anything you need on the trail (bathroom, water, food, rest) is cash only and each next station is more expensive than the previous one. Ex: bathroom at 5rh station is 100 yen, 8th station is 300yen. Water bottle 500 yen at 8th station. Now to the culprit of our panic/holycrap moment. We found out the last bus from Subashiri back to Gotemba on a weekday leaves at 5:45pm. NOT 8:10pm as we thought we saw online (it's only true for weekends)
Every person we encountered on the way up, laughed at us when hearing we planned on making it to the summit same day. Every. Single. Person. Seems most popular option is to stay at the 8th station lodge overnight. After like 12 people laughing/making fun of us, I was mentally getting ready to sleep on the bench and take the first bus out next day (sobbing over the prepaid hotel breakfast we would miss). Well, being dumb, determined, and not realizing how much it will end up wrecking our legs , we made it to the summit in 3.5hrs (including all very brief breaks). I think because of how fast we were going, altitude change didn't get a chance to catch up wiht me too much (but husband absolutely did feel light headed at the top).
Definitely make sure to put sunblock on. If you are not sprinting up like idiots, bring layers - we ended up not needing ours but again.... dumb reasons. It does get chilly towards the top, with rather uncomfortable winds (check the forecast for the mountain beforehand). Going down there's a separate path, covered in soft volcanic ashes and rock mix. You can figure out a way to run it. It took us a bit over an hour to make it back to the station with 15 mins to spare before the last bus. They do have staff there until 7pm who can help figuring out a taxi if you are stuck -- luckily we didn't need it. On weekends, there's a later bus back to Gotemba.
We were late to the bus from Gotemba to Tokyo, arriving from Subashiri at 6:45pm with the other bus leaving at the same time. There's a JR line though, you can go to Matsuda from platform 1 (40 mins, 500 yen per person, verify platform number), then transfer to Shinjuku (1hr 15 mins 800 yen per person). We were back at Shinjuku 9:15pm.Quads and calves were not the same ever since the hike. Also practically unusable on the stairs for the next 4 days. Darwinism at its finest. But doable. Hope this helps someone else.
翻译:不要做我们所做的事情,更好地研究细节:-) 我们的故事是关于两个显然没有准备的丁库斯(我,34F,丈夫 36M)开始了一次小日子的徒步旅行,他们只是表面上计划了它。这意味着什么?我们知道我们想走哪条路线——从第五站出发的须走步道,因为更短且不那么拥挤。我们知道我们需要从新宿乘坐两趟巴士,我们知道人们在 1 天内就完成了,我们知道上面很冷,所以我们带了几层衣服。我们不知道什么?基本上其他的都可以。
九月的第一周,非常幸运,天气晴朗,风不大。早上7点35分从新宿站出发,乘坐小田急高速巴士前往御殿场(单程1800日元/人)。原本预计需要 1 小时 25 分钟,然而,在最后 2 英里的时候,由于一辆翻车,我们遭遇了严重的交通堵塞,这让我们推迟了一个多小时。我们到达御殿场,下一趟去须走步道的巴士要到10:35才发车(每人往返2700日元)。在没有交通拥堵的理想情况下,乘坐巴士需要 60-65 分钟。根据我们简短的“计划会议”,我们的期望是“从御殿场快速到达第五站”(正如谷歌善意地描述的那样)。
一定要带现金,路上需要的任何东西(浴室、水、食物、休息)都只能用现金,而且下一站比前一站贵。例如:5号站的浴室是100日元,8号站是300日元。八合目水瓶500日元。现在来谈谈造成我们恐慌/神圣时刻的罪魁祸首。我们发现工作日从须走返回御殿场的末班车于下午 5:45 发车。不是我们在网上看到的那样晚上 8:10(只适用于周末)
当我们听说我们计划当天登顶时,我们在登山途中遇到的每个人都嘲笑我们。每一个。单身的。人。似乎最受欢迎的选择是在第八站旅馆过夜。在大约 12 个人嘲笑/取笑我们之后,我在心理上准备在长凳上睡觉,然后乘坐第二天的第一趟公共汽车出去(为我们会错过的预付费酒店早餐而哭泣)。好吧,我们很愚蠢,但意志坚定,没有意识到这最终会给我们的双腿带来多大的伤害,我们在 3.5 小时内到达了山顶(包括所有非常短暂的休息)。我想,由于我们的速度太快,海拔变化并没有太多机会追上我(但丈夫在山顶确实感到头晕)。
一定要记得涂防晒霜。如果你不想像白痴一样冲刺,那就带上几层衣服——我们最终不需要我们的,但又……愚蠢的理由。接近山顶时确实会变得寒冷,风也相当不舒服(请提前查看山上的天气预报)。往下走有一条单独的小路,上面覆盖着柔软的火山灰和岩石混合物。你可以找到一种方法来运行它。我们花了一个多小时才回到车站,距离末班车还有 15 分钟。他们确实有工作人员工作到晚上 7 点,如果你被困住了,他们可以帮助你找到一辆出租车——幸运的是我们不需要它。周末有较晚的巴士返回御殿场。
我们从御殿场到东京的巴士晚点了,下午 6:45 从须走到达,另一辆巴士同时出发。不过有JR线,你可以从1号站台到松田(40分钟,每人500日元,核实站台号),然后换乘到新宿(1小时15分钟,每人800日元)。我们晚上 9:15 回到新宿。自从徒步旅行以来,股四头肌和小腿就不一样了。在接下来的 4 天内,楼梯也几乎无法使用。达尔文主义的精髓。但可行。希望这对其他人有帮助。