点评:Review of Mount Oberon Summit Walk, Tidal River, Victoria
If we’ve been to Tidal River in Wilson's Prom the one time, we’ve been half-dozen times in recent years - the annual Australia Day holiday. The place is a treasure-trove of natural/environmental images. It is an ideal place to capture glimpses of an original Australia as-it-once-was before the modern era - and more so given the juxtaposition of land, sea and sky that contrasts, captures and overwhelms – blending into those magic images of one time what was called ‘Terra Australis Incognita’. Of course, you’re obliged to travel with that sense of imagination, adventure and historical exploration in the modern era.
Up until 12,000 years ago or thereabouts Wilsons Prom was the starting point of the land bridge to what is now the island of Tasmania. Rising sea levels – that became the Bass Straits - effectively isolated the ancient people, flora and fauna that had previously travelled back and forth across the Bassian Plain.
Stand/sit on the large granite outcrop that provides a viewing platform at the summit of Mt Oberon and the distant horizon of seascape, in-shore islands, beaches and tree-covered slopes in land are sufficient reward for the time and effort required to climb the mountain. You can’t see Tasmania – it’s >240 km south; Flinders Island is not much closer at 200 km. You can, however, see the Glennie Group of Islands – 10 km off-shore.
Take your lunch with you and sit and enjoy the pleasures of the day – you’ll probably be back home in the suburbs before you know it. Moreover, it’s not as if this was the result of a hard walk. The free-to-ride coach that you catch outside the Visitor’s Centre in Tidal River drops you off in the car park on Telegraph Saddle. You’re already about 200 m up the slope – the summit is another 350 m higher.
And, before taking that 4 km track uphill from the coach stop, take time out for the ‘convenience’ of things … there’s an organic toilet in the car park, but nothing thereafter before you return to catch the coach back – from the experience of our group that’s around four hours. No issue for the bushmen/women/kids in the group, of course, but the reality of the images/waste left behind off-track can be unattractive.
The track as such is more of a 4x4 trail – to service the communications towers just below the summit. It’s uphill, sure, but not seriously steep as such. Take your time, step-by-step and keep going. The trail is hard packed gravel and largely shaded – it was comfortable walking. Our group spread out but kept together, stopping at a feature, view or importantly, at a couple of wooden benches along the trail. Somewhere to sit is important for many people … the point being, that there were not nearly enough sitting places to share. Why not provide half-dozen more benches?
The track is more than a route to a destination – it’s a delight in itself for the surrounding forest, those occasional views and the space available that enables you to walk and talk with others in your group. The shallow gradient of the track crosses steep sloping land - there’s a shallow drain below the slope on the uphill side. Walk the track in the rain and you would be able to follow the drainage/runoff pattern.
On the downhill side there are extensive colonies of the attractive Australian Fern tree (Cyathea cooeri) – green/lacy leaves/fronds and brown trunk 6-8 m high when mature. Self-sown - attracted by the light or originally planted by hand?
The track ends at a services centre below three communication pylons and surrounded by a high wire security fence. The mountain becomes open here; no trees - and you climb short stairways and steep slopes with handrails provided*. Use the rails - the stairs are irregular and made of rock, wood and packed soil/gravel. Heading back down you would not want to fall. The stair climb is short – taking you 80-100 m to the summit - and this is where you may need those additional ‘oomph’ resources.
Reach the sky and the vegetation around you melts into a brilliant sky of sunshine, white scudding clouds and seascape images that remain. That’s a key point – make your walk in fine weather with nothing to impede those images from the summit. Below you to the north is the township of Tidal River – like a three-dimensional map. The river runs east-west around three sides of the township and discharges into the sea to one side of Norman Beach. The river is a favourite safe playground for families with little kids. The township is heavily wooded. Just to the north of Tidal River you catch glimpses of Squeaky Beach, the small beach in Leonard Bay and perhaps Picnic Bay in the distance.
There’s a rock outcrop that extends partway around the summit overlooking the distant sea/coastline. Here’s where you’ll find the summit plaque. There’s also a private (and hidden) plague dedicated to the ‘Loving memory of Syd and Ina’. The message is one of love - for each other and, perhaps, the natural environment hereabouts - wherein the rock has been returned to its place of origin after an absence of 54 years … a nice (and tantalizing) story.
Take care when walking over the outcrop – there’s a 3-4 m drop at the edge overlooking another rock outcrop below. You can easily clamber down, but you would not want to fall.
Take your time at the top … do NOT rush to return back down the mountain. … the beauty of the images overwhelms. When can you expect to return?
Peter Steele
11 February 2025
翻译:维多利亚州潮汐河奥伯伦山顶步道之旅
我们之前去过威尔逊岬的潮汐河,但近年来,每年的澳大利亚国庆日假期,我们至少去了六次。这里简直是自然风光的宝库。它是捕捉现代文明到来之前原始澳大利亚风貌的理想之地——尤其是陆地、海洋和天空交相辉映,形成鲜明对比,令人叹为观止,最终汇聚成一幅幅神奇的画面,展现了曾经被称为“未知的澳大利亚”(Terra Australis Incognita)的景象。当然,在现代,你也应该带着这份想象力、冒险精神和探索历史的渴望去旅行。
大约在12000年前,威尔逊岬是连接如今塔斯马尼亚岛的陆桥的起点。海平面上升——形成了巴斯海峡——有效地隔离了曾经往返于巴斯平原的古代居民、动植物。
站在或坐在奥伯伦山顶巨大的花岗岩平台上,远眺海景、近岸岛屿、沙滩和内陆绿树成荫的山坡,足以弥补攀登这座山峰所花费的时间和精力。虽然看不到塔斯马尼亚岛——它在南方240多公里处;弗林德斯岛也相距不远,有200公里。不过,你可以看到格伦尼群岛——它位于离岸10公里处。
带上你的午餐,坐下来享受这美好的一天——你可能很快就会回到郊区的家中。而且,这并非是跋山涉水的结果。在潮汐河游客中心外搭乘免费巴士,巴士会把你送到电报鞍部的停车场。此时你已经爬升了大约200米——山顶还要再高350米。
在从巴士站开始走那4公里长的上山小径之前,请预留一些时间解决一下“方便”问题……停车场里有一个简易厕所,但之后就没有任何厕所了,直到你返回搭乘巴士——根据我们团队的经验,这段路程大约需要四个小时。当然,对于团队里的丛林居民/妇女/孩子来说,这不成问题,但路边留下的垃圾可能会让人感到不适。
这条小径更像是一条四驱车道——通往山顶下方的通讯塔。的确是上坡路,但坡度并不算陡。慢慢来,一步一步地走,坚持下去。小径是压实的碎石路,而且大部分路段都有树荫遮蔽——走起来很舒服。我们一行人分散开来,但又保持着联系,不时停下来欣赏风景,或者更重要的是,在步道沿途的几张木凳上歇脚。对很多人来说,有个地方坐下来休息很重要……问题是,座位远远不够。为什么不多设几个长凳呢?
这条步道不仅仅是一条通往目的地的路线——它本身就是一种享受:周围的森林、不时出现的景色,以及宽敞的空间,让你可以和同伴边走边聊。步道坡度平缓,穿过陡峭的山坡——上坡一侧的坡下有一条浅沟。如果下雨,沿着步道走,你就能观察到排水/径流的规律。
下坡一侧生长着大片美丽的澳洲蕨树(Cyathea cooeri)——叶片呈绿色/羽状,成熟时树干呈棕色,高6-8米。它们是自然生长的吗?是被阳光吸引而来,还是最初人工种植的?
步道尽头是一个服务中心,位于三座通讯塔下方,周围环绕着高高的铁丝网安全围栏。山体在此处变得开阔,没有树木遮挡,你需要攀登一段设有扶手的短阶梯和陡坡*。务必使用扶手——阶梯崎岖不平,由岩石、木头和夯实的泥土/碎石构成。下山时,你肯定不想摔倒。这段阶梯攀登很短,大约80-100米即可到达山顶——在这里,你可能需要一些额外的“冲刺力”。
当你到达山顶,周围的植被仿佛融入了灿烂的阳光、飞驰的白云和壮丽的海景之中。这一点至关重要——一定要在晴朗的天气里徒步,这样才能确保从山顶欣赏美景时不受任何阻碍。在你下方的北面,是潮汐河镇(Tidal River)——宛如一幅三维立体地图。河流自东向西环绕着小镇的三面,最终在诺曼海滩(Norman Beach)的一侧汇入大海。这条河是许多带着小孩的家庭最喜欢的安全游乐场所。小镇树木茂密。在潮汐河 (Tidal River) 北面,您可以瞥见吱吱海滩 (Squeaky Beach)、伦纳德湾 (Leonard Bay) 的小海滩,或许还能看到远处的野餐湾 (Picnic Bay)。
山顶有一块岩石,环绕着山顶延伸了一部分,可以俯瞰远处的大海/海岸线。山顶纪念牌就位于此处。此外,还有一块私人(且隐蔽)的纪念牌,上面刻着“对 Syd 和 Ina 的深切缅怀”。牌上的信息饱含爱意——对彼此的爱,或许还有对……的爱。周围的自然环境——这块岩石在消失54年后重返故土……真是一个动人的故事。
走过这块岩石时务必小心——边缘有3-4米的落差,可以俯瞰下方另一块岩石。你可以轻松地爬下去,但千万不要摔下去。
在山顶慢慢欣赏……不要急着下山……那里的美景令人叹为观止。您什么时候会再来呢?
彼得·斯蒂尔
2025年2月11日