点评:I had to descend alone from about 6,500 meters to Refugio Tejos at 5,900 meters, even though there were five guides available for nine clients. Around 6,200 meters, since I still felt fine, one of the guides even handed me a rope to carry down. That meant I was descending with about 1.5 kg more than I had when going up. I honestly don’t understand how someone who supposedly has pulmonary edema is asked to carry extra weight on the descent.
When I reached around 6,000 meters (about one hour after the guide diagnosed me with edema), another guide below said on the radio: “He feels fine, there is no edema.” By then it was already too late for me to go back up.
The possible edema was enough to force me to descend, but apparently not serious enough for them to accompany me down. I was left alone at Refugio Tejos (5,900 m) for about 10 hours waiting for the rest of the group. If I had actually had edema, staying at that altitude would have been a serious problem.
Two days earlier I had reached the summit of Volcán San Francisco with the same group. I had the same cough as always, but the guide who forced me to descend was not on that excursion.
The guide took less than five minutes to diagnose me with edema. It really felt like she simply wanted to get rid of a “problem.” Another guide did not fully agree with her decision, and she also did not consult the other guides who had been with me on the previous climb.
I only started to feel really bad about two hours later at Refugio Tejos because of the medication I had been forced to take and had asked not to take. It gave me tachycardia, and at that moment I was at the refuge without any guides present.
翻译:尽管有五位向导服务九位客人,我还是不得不独自一人从海拔约6500米下降到海拔5900米的特霍斯避难所(Refugio Tejos)。大约在海拔6200米处,由于我感觉良好,其中一位向导甚至递给我一根绳子让我背着下山。这意味着我下山时比上山时重了大约1.5公斤。我实在不明白,一个疑似患有肺水肿的人怎么会被要求在下山时背负额外的重量。
当我到达海拔约6000米处时(大约在向导诊断我患有水肿一小时后),下方另一位向导通过无线电说:“他感觉很好,没有水肿。” 那时我已经无法返回了。
疑似水肿足以迫使我下山,但显然还不够严重,他们不愿陪我一起下山。我独自一人在特霍斯避难所(海拔5900米)待了大约10个小时,等待其他队员。如果我真的患有水肿,待在那个海拔高度将会非常危险。
两天前,我和同一批人登上了圣弗朗西斯科火山的顶峰。我像往常一样咳嗽,但这次强迫我下山的向导并没有参加那次登山活动。
那位向导只用了不到五分钟就诊断我患有水肿。感觉她只是想摆脱这个“问题”。另一位向导并不完全认同她的诊断,而且她也没有咨询之前和我一起登山的其他向导。
大约两个小时后,我在特霍斯避难所才开始感到非常难受,这是因为我被迫服用了之前要求不要服用的药物。它导致我心动过速,而当时避难所里没有任何向导。