点评:The Seoul City Wall or Hanyangdoseong was built in 1396 during the 5th year reign of King Taejo of the Joseon Dynasty to protect and demarcate capital Hanyang (present day Seoul). It served as a city wall for 514 years (1396 to 1910) which is longer than any other city wall in the world. Hanyangdoseong is approximately 18.6 kilometres long; it follows the 4 mountain ridges of Baegaksan (Bugaksan), Naksan, Namsan (Mokmyeoksan) and Inwangsan that surround Seoul centre and has 4 main gates and 4 small gates in controlling the access to the city. There are six walking or hiking trails (Sunseong-gil) on a circurlar loop covering the sections of Baegak (between Changuimun Gate and Hyehwamun Gate), Naksan (between Hyehwamun Gate and Heunginjimun Gate), Heunginjimun (between Heunginjimun Gate and Jangchung Gymnasium), Namsan (between Jangchung Gymnasium and Baekbeom Square), Sungnyemun (between Baekbeom Square and Donuimun Gate) and Inwangsan (between Donuimun Gate and Changuimun Gate).
I did the Naksan (translated as “Mount Nak”) section walking trail in about 1.5 hour on a late Saturday afternoon during autumn, with lots of photography stops and rest. My walking time excluded a 45-minute detour to and fro the Ilwa Mural Village – look out for a signage “Ihwa-dong Mural Village” before or after Naksan Park (depending which direction you start the walk).
Getting there:
I started my Naksan section walking trail across the Heunginjimun Gate. So I took subway line 1 (I could also take subway line 4) to Dongdaemum Station (128, 421), and once I came out of Exit 1, I turned around and reached in about 2 minutes, on my right, the steps going up to the Seoul City Wall. Alternatively, for Hyehwamun Gate as starting point, you could take subway line 4 to Hansung University Station (419) and upon exiting at exit 4, walk straight and turn left onto the stairs up to the City Wall (about 3 minutes’ walk). There is no entrance fee for the Naksan walking trail and it is open 24 hours every day.
The Seoul City Wall attraction:
As this was my first or beginner’s walk at the Seoul City Wall, I chose the 2.1 km Naksan section walking trail because it has a gentle slope making walking relatively easier than the other walking trails. The Naksan section walking trail stretches from Heunginjimun (Main) Gate to Hyehwamun (Small) Gate through Naksan mountain.
There are two walking paths along the Seoul City Wall for the Naksan section walking trail – one at the top of the City Wall and the other at the base or bottom of the City Wall. I saw that the bottom walking path is well maintained cement pavement and usually step-less. The “top” walking path comprised a mix of steps and predominantly non-steps that are either paved or non-paved (e.g. hard soil and fibre mat). While I could appreciate the different types of construction stones and materials and the history boards as I walk along the walking path at the base, I walked along the City Wall at the top because I wanted to enjoy the gorgeous panoramic view of east Seoul and the autumn foliage of the trees lined next to the road. You could do an exchange of the two walking paths at Naksan Park. For the Naksan section walking trail, there is a one-direction road until Naksan Park; this road is next to the walking path along the top of the City Wall.
I started my “northward” Naksan section walking trail at (opposite) the Heunginjimun Gate. At the beginning of the walking trail, the “top” walking path was much lower than the top of the City Wall so I was not able to see the cityscape; but I was rewarded with photography shots of a big field (on my left) of the autumn blooming Silvergrass (also known as eulalia grass, pampas grass or Miscanthus (scientific name)). Soon after, the road connected side by side with the “top” walking path but the walking path is always at least 3 metres from the road. It was an upward hike on non-paved walking path with the slope gentle between 5 and 30 degrees but with a certain short stretch having a 40 degrees slope. I took a slow walk with plenty of photography stops for the beautiful red and orange autumn foliage of the maple trees (which looked ever more brilliant during the sunset). The panoramic air-pollution free view of eastern Seoul got better along with the ascent until the best views were at Naksan Park which is at the summit of Naksan.
At 124 metres, Naksan is the lowest among the 4 inner mountains surrounding Seoul. It is said that Naksan or Naksan Park looks like the back (hump) of a camel. At the observatory deck of Naksan Park, I enjoyed the panoramic view of southern, eastern and northern Seoul, Baegaksan and Inwangsan mountains in the north, Namsun mountain and N Seoul Tower in the south. I could also see a section of the City Wall which has beautiful yellow, red and orange autumn foliage. The walking path from Naksan Park to Hyehwamun Gate is basically a descent.
While I enjoyed the gorgeous views and the autumn foliage, I could not help but marvel at the amazing fact that here I was in 2022 walking the Seoul City Wall that was built some 600 years ago – it was like transforming myself back in past history! On my next visit, I would love to do the Naksan section trail at night when the wall is lighted up and when Seoul transforms itself into a city of lights.
If you are looking for hiking that is within an urban setting or city and is historical, then look no further - the Seoul City Wall or Hanyangdoseong is it! Be sure to choose a walking trail that caters to your fitness level, wear comfortable walking or hiking shoes, bring lots of drinking water…and enjoy the walk!
翻译:首尔城墙或汉阳都城建于朝鲜王朝太祖 5 年 1396 年,用于保护和划分首都汉阳(现首尔)。它作为城墙使用了 514 年(1396 年至 1910 年),是世界上最长的城墙。汉阳都城长约18.6公里;它沿着围绕首尔中心的白岳山(Bugaksan)、洛山(Naksan)、南山(Mokmyeoksan)和仁王山(Inwangsan)4座山脊而建,有4个正门和4个小门控制着进入城市的通道。有6条环形步行道(顺城路),覆盖白岳(昌义门和惠化门之间)、骆山(惠化门和兴仁之门之间)、兴仁之门(兴仁之门和奖忠体育馆之间)、南山(奖忠体育馆与白凡广场之间)、崇礼门(白凡广场与敦义门之间)、仁王山(敦义门与昌义门之间)。
秋天的一个周六下午晚些时候,我花了大约 1.5 小时完成了骆山(翻译为“骆山”)部分步行道,期间有很多摄影停留和休息的地方。我的步行时间不包括往返伊华洞壁画村的 45 分钟绕道路程——在骆山公园之前或之后(取决于您从哪个方向开始步行),请留意“伊化洞壁画村”的标志。
到达那里:
我开始了穿过兴仁之门的骆山段步行道。于是我乘坐地铁1号线(也可以乘坐地铁4号线)到东大门站(128、421),从1号出口出来后,转身大约2分钟就到达了,在我的右边,台阶是一直到首尔城墙。或者,以惠化门为起点,乘坐地铁 4 号线至汉城大学站 (419),从 4 号出口出来后直走,左转上楼梯上城墙(步行约 3 分钟)。骆山步道无需门票,每天 24 小时开放。
首尔城墙景点:
由于这是我第一次或初学者在首尔城墙步行,我选择了2.1公里长的骆山段步行道,因为它的坡度较缓,比其他步行道相对容易行走。骆山区间步行道从兴仁之门穿过骆山一直延伸到惠化门。
骆山段步行道沿首尔城墙有两条步行道,一条位于城墙顶部,另一条位于城墙底部。我看到底部的步行道是维护良好的水泥路面,通常是无台阶的。 “顶部”步行道由台阶和主要是铺砌或未铺砌的非台阶(例如硬土和纤维垫)组成。当我沿着底部的步行道行走时,我可以欣赏到不同类型的建筑石材和材料以及历史牌,但我沿着顶部的城墙行走,因为我想欣赏首尔东部和首尔的美丽全景。路边树木的秋天树叶。您可以在洛山公园交换两条步行道。骆山段步行道有一条单向道路直至骆山公园;这条路紧邻城墙顶部的步行道。
我从兴仁之门(对面)开始了我的“向北”骆山段步行道。在步行道的起点,“顶部”步行道比城墙顶部低很多,所以看不到城市景观;但我得到了奖励,拍摄了一大片秋天盛开的银草(也称为欧拉利亚草、潘帕斯草或芒草(学名))的田野(在我的左边)。不久之后,道路与“顶部”步行道并排连接,但步行道始终距离道路至少3米。这是在未铺砌的步行道上向上徒步,坡度在 5 至 30 度之间,但有一段短距离的坡度为 40 度。我慢慢地散步,中间有很多摄影站,欣赏枫树秋天美丽的红色和橙色叶子(在日落时看起来更加绚丽)。随着上升,首尔东部无空气污染的全景变得越来越好,直到最佳景观出现在骆山山顶的骆山公园。
洛山海拔 124 米,是首尔周边 4 座内山中最低的一座。据说骆山或骆山公园看起来像骆驼的背(驼峰)。在骆山公园的展望台上,我欣赏到了首尔南部、东部和北部的全景,北边是白岳山和仁王山,南边是南山和N首尔塔。我还可以看到一段城墙,上面有美丽的黄色、红色和橙色的秋叶。从骆山公园到惠化门的步行路基本上是下坡路。
当我欣赏美丽的景色和秋天的树叶时,我不禁惊叹于一个令人惊奇的事实:2022 年,我在大约 600 年前建造的首尔城墙上行走 - 这就像把自己变回了过去的历史!在我下次访问时,我很想在晚上去骆山路,那时城墙被点亮,首尔变成了一座灯光之城。
如果您正在寻找在城市环境或城市内且具有历史意义的徒步旅行,那就不用再犹豫了 - 首尔城墙或汉阳都城就是它!请务必选择适合您的健身水平的步行路线,穿着舒适的步行鞋或登山鞋,带上大量饮用水……并享受步行的乐趣!