点评:For the record, it kind of annoys me that this has been named by some as “The Devil’s Chimney”… I much rather the beautifully descriptive Irish name “Sruth in Aghaidh an Aird” which translates loosely to English as “Stream against the height”.
…I will however, allow myself to call it “The Divil’s Chimbley” so that people know where I’m talking about 😊
Now that I’ve got that out of the way, let’s talk about the walk itself. Drive out by the shores of Glencar, and hopefully find one of the few parking spaces on the side of the road free- or keep driving up and down the road until somebody finally finishes their walk, and you nab their space as they are leaving!
Make your way in through one of the many kissing gates, and stroll up the gently rising gravel path meandering its way up the hill, first through relatively open fields, up to the tree line… then rising a little more steeply through the most beautiful thickets of mountain ash and sycamore trees.
Once you realise that this is a gorgeously gentle walk, probably whistling in delight, enjoying life and wondering why it’s taken you so long to do this piece-of-cake walk, you round a corner, and before your eyes is a set of steps at an angle of roughly 98°, a sheer face of timber stairs, with risers just high enough to burn your calf muscles every time you take a step up sending instructions to your heart to beat out through your chest cavity…
After roughly 18 hours of climbing through unexplored jungle, fighting off all manner of wild and vicious animals (mainly sheep and donkeys…) you will find yourself face to face with the most amazingly stunning 150 meter cascade of water careering down a vertical rock face… or, if the wind is coming from the South, you’ll wonder where the waterfall is, because when the conditions are right, some of The Faeries from Yeats’ Stolen Child, appear to have also liberated an entire waterfall… lads, nature is unbelievably amazing, that a modest breeze can stop a waterfall in its tracks?!?!
Please take the degree of rise that I’ve described above more as an indication of my fitness level, rather than the reality of it being one of the most magnificent woodland walks you will ever do, and before you do go, treat yourself to reading “The Stolen Child” and see how stunningly descriptive this beautiful poem is, describing in detail exactly what you are looking at:
“Where the wandering water gushes,
From the hills above Glencar”
And one of my favourite lines of poetry ever to have graced paper, because I adore the beauty of unfolded ferns:
“Leaning softly out
From ferns that drop their tears
Over the young streams”
Glencar waterfall is lovely, it’s easily accessible, and a sight to behold… but the Divil’s Chimbley is a whole other level… it truly is worth the walk, you will NOT regret it.
57/10 for waterfalliness.
❤️
翻译:郑重声明:有些人将其称为“魔鬼烟囱”,这点让我有点不爽……我更喜欢那个极具诗意的爱尔兰语名称“Sruth in Aghaidh an Aird”,大致可以翻译成“逆山而上的溪流”。
……不过,我还是允许自己称它为“魔鬼烟囱”,这样人们就能明白我在说哪儿了😊
把这点说明白后,咱们来聊聊这次徒步吧。开车前往格伦卡尔湖畔。希望能在路边找到为数不多的空闲停车位;或者就一直在路上来回驾驶,直到有人散步完毕,你就能在他们离开时抢占他们的车位!
从众多 enrollment gates(入口门)中的一个走进去,然后沿着缓缓向上的碎石小径漫步上山。起初会经过一片相对开阔的田野。一直走到林线处……然后坡度略微变陡,穿过一片由山梣树和悬铃木构成的绝美密林。
当你意识到这是一条极其平缓宜人的徒步路线,或许还会开心地吹着口哨、享受着生活,心里想着自己怎么花了这么长时间才来走这条轻松无比的路线时,转过一个弯后,映入眼帘的却是一组倾斜角度约为98°的阶梯——一面由木制台阶构成的垂直“墙壁”。那些台阶的高度恰到好处——每当你迈步向上时,就会狠狠刺激到小腿肌肉,同时向心脏发送信号,让它几乎要从胸腔中蹦出来……
在历经大约18个小时的攀登后,你穿过了鲜有人迹的丛林,还击退了各种凶猛的野生动物(主要是羊和驴……)。最终,你会亲眼目睹一道令人惊叹不已的150米高瀑布:水从垂直的岩壁上倾泻而下……或者,如果风是从南方吹来,情况又会有所不同。你会纳闷瀑布究竟在哪里——因为条件适宜时,叶芝笔下《被偷走的孩子》里的那些小精灵们似乎也“释放”出了一整条瀑布……伙计们,大自然真是不可思议啊!仅仅一阵微风就能让瀑布戛然而止?!!
不过,上面所描述的坡度上升情况,还请将其视为我体能水平的体现罢了,而并非意味着这是一条堪称最壮美的林间徒步路线。在出发之前,还请务必牢记这一点。不妨读一读《被偷走的孩子》这首诗吧,看看这首优美的诗篇有着多么惊艳的描写力——它细致入微地描绘了你眼前所见的景象:
“潺潺流水奔涌而下,
来自格伦卡上方的山峦。”
还有一句堪称有史以来我最喜欢的诗句,因为我实在钟爱那些舒展开的蕨类植物的美丽姿态:
“轻轻俯身探出,
从垂下‘泪滴’的蕨丛间,
越过年轻的溪流。”
格伦卡瀑布十分迷人,而且交通便利、容易到达。真是一道赏心悦目的风景……不过“魔鬼的烟囱”则更胜一筹……绝对值得一去,你绝对不会后悔的。
瀑布评分:57/10。
❤️