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Cotopaxi unprofessional guide
Andes Climbing的点评
点评：I booked a private 1-on-1 Cotopaxi 6-day package with Andes Climbing, expecting professional safety and route-finding standards. Instead, my guide Reynaldo Guevara demonstrated severe negligence and poor navigation during the final midnight push, which ultimately led to an unsafe and physically exhausting ordeal.
During our prior acclimatization hike on Corazón Volcano, I told Reynaldo that I have sub-normal lung capacity and needed to catch my breath frequently. Despite this, when we began the summit push at 11:00pm, he consistently walked more than 10 meters ahead of me on the lower volcanic scree trail. Due to his complete lack of pace management, I was forced into aerobic overdrive, getting trapped in the deep, loose ash and wasting critical energy. Consequently, it took an excessive 3.5 hours to reach the glacier (arriving at 2:20am)——a stretch that normally takes 1.5 hours.
Upon entering the glacier at 2:20am, while he was helping me put on my crampons, I told him that I already knew I would not reach the summit and my goal was simply to keep climbing at my own pace for as long as I could to see the sunrise. Instead of supporting this, Reynaldo deliberately navigated me through an extremely rugged and hostile route filled with rough ice spires (penitentes) that required erratic, exhausting foot placement. As I struggled through this difficult terrain, he began discouraging me, telling me and trying to "prove" to me that the mountain was too much for me so that I would quit.
I ignored his discouragement and kept climbing. After about half an hour, headlamps from other climbing groups appeared directly above us, moving smoothly on the actual, clear, established path. Reynaldo was forced to stop pressuring me and corrected his course only because the presence of other climbers made his deception undeniable.
Thanks to my own resilience, I pushed through for nearly 8 hours, successfully witnessing the sunrise on the upper slopes at 5,690 meters before making the decision to turn back at 6:45am due to extreme exhaustion. At this point, I was physically incapacitated and Reynaldo proceeded to drag me down the ice path with my legs straight. While I understand the need for a rapid descent, I would never have been reduced to that state of complete exhaustion had Reynaldo managed the climb professionally from the start.
With the aim of protecting the well-being of future mountaineers, I have formally reported this guide and filed an official complaint with the Ecuadorian Mountain Guide Association (ASEGUIM).
In spite of this entirely unprofessional guide, the accommodation in Machachi was clean and comfortable, the rental equipments were all in good conditions, and the drivers were caring and professional.
During our prior acclimatization hike on Corazón Volcano, I told Reynaldo that I have sub-normal lung capacity and needed to catch my breath frequently. Despite this, when we began the summit push at 11:00pm, he consistently walked more than 10 meters ahead of me on the lower volcanic scree trail. Due to his complete lack of pace management, I was forced into aerobic overdrive, getting trapped in the deep, loose ash and wasting critical energy. Consequently, it took an excessive 3.5 hours to reach the glacier (arriving at 2:20am)——a stretch that normally takes 1.5 hours.
Upon entering the glacier at 2:20am, while he was helping me put on my crampons, I told him that I already knew I would not reach the summit and my goal was simply to keep climbing at my own pace for as long as I could to see the sunrise. Instead of supporting this, Reynaldo deliberately navigated me through an extremely rugged and hostile route filled with rough ice spires (penitentes) that required erratic, exhausting foot placement. As I struggled through this difficult terrain, he began discouraging me, telling me and trying to "prove" to me that the mountain was too much for me so that I would quit.
I ignored his discouragement and kept climbing. After about half an hour, headlamps from other climbing groups appeared directly above us, moving smoothly on the actual, clear, established path. Reynaldo was forced to stop pressuring me and corrected his course only because the presence of other climbers made his deception undeniable.
Thanks to my own resilience, I pushed through for nearly 8 hours, successfully witnessing the sunrise on the upper slopes at 5,690 meters before making the decision to turn back at 6:45am due to extreme exhaustion. At this point, I was physically incapacitated and Reynaldo proceeded to drag me down the ice path with my legs straight. While I understand the need for a rapid descent, I would never have been reduced to that state of complete exhaustion had Reynaldo managed the climb professionally from the start.
With the aim of protecting the well-being of future mountaineers, I have formally reported this guide and filed an official complaint with the Ecuadorian Mountain Guide Association (ASEGUIM).
In spite of this entirely unprofessional guide, the accommodation in Machachi was clean and comfortable, the rental equipments were all in good conditions, and the drivers were caring and professional.
翻译：我通过Andes Climbing预订了科托帕希火山的私人一对一6日游套餐，原指望能获得专业级的安全保障与路线规划服务。然而，在最后那次午夜攀登过程中，向导雷纳尔多·格韦拉表现得极其疏忽大意且路线判断失误，最终导致我们经历了一场既危险又极度耗费体力的艰难行程。
此前我们在科拉松火山进行适应性徒步时，我曾告知雷纳尔多我的肺活量低于常人，需要频繁停下来喘息。即便如此……晚上11点我们开始向山顶进发，在火山碎石坡道上，他始终走在我前方10米开外。由于他完全不会控制行进节奏，我不得不超负荷进行有氧运动，深陷在松软的火山灰中，浪费了大量宝贵的体力。结果，原本只需1.5小时就能走完的这段路程，我们却花了整整3个半小时才抵达冰川地带（凌晨2点20分）——耗时实在过多。
凌晨2点20分进入冰川区后，他帮我穿上冰爪时……我告诉他，我早就知道自己无法登顶，我的目标只是尽最大可能按照自己的节奏继续攀登，只为能看到日出。然而雷纳尔多非但没有支持我，反而故意带我走了一条极其崎岖险恶的路线——沿途布满尖锐粗糙的冰柱（即“佩尼特斯”），行走时必须不断调整步伐，极其耗费体力。就在我艰难穿越这片恶劣地形时，他开始打击我的积极性。他不断劝我，试图“证明”那座山对我而言太过艰难，好让我放弃。
我无视他的劝阻，继续攀登。大约半小时后，其他登山队伍的头灯出现在我们正上方，他们沿着清晰可见的既定路径平稳前行。雷纳尔多被迫停止施压，并调整了行进路线——因为其他登山者的出现让他的欺骗行为再也遮掩不住了。
多亏了我自身的坚韧不拔。我坚持了近8个小时，最终在海拔5,690米的山坡上成功目睹了日出。由于极度疲劳，我在早上6点45分决定折返。那时我已无力动弹，雷纳尔多只能拖着双腿笔直的我沿着冰面往下走。虽然我理解迅速下撤的必要性，但如果雷纳尔多从一开始就能以专业的方式带我攀登，我绝对不会陷入如此筋疲力尽的境地。为了保护未来登山者们的安全与健康，我已正式举报这名向导，并向厄瓜多尔山地向导协会（ASEGUIM）提出了正式投诉。
尽管遇到了这位极不专业的向导，马查奇的住宿环境依然干净舒适，租赁的装备也状况良好，司机们更是细心且专业。
此前我们在科拉松火山进行适应性徒步时，我曾告知雷纳尔多我的肺活量低于常人，需要频繁停下来喘息。即便如此……晚上11点我们开始向山顶进发，在火山碎石坡道上，他始终走在我前方10米开外。由于他完全不会控制行进节奏，我不得不超负荷进行有氧运动，深陷在松软的火山灰中，浪费了大量宝贵的体力。结果，原本只需1.5小时就能走完的这段路程，我们却花了整整3个半小时才抵达冰川地带（凌晨2点20分）——耗时实在过多。
凌晨2点20分进入冰川区后，他帮我穿上冰爪时……我告诉他，我早就知道自己无法登顶，我的目标只是尽最大可能按照自己的节奏继续攀登，只为能看到日出。然而雷纳尔多非但没有支持我，反而故意带我走了一条极其崎岖险恶的路线——沿途布满尖锐粗糙的冰柱（即“佩尼特斯”），行走时必须不断调整步伐，极其耗费体力。就在我艰难穿越这片恶劣地形时，他开始打击我的积极性。他不断劝我，试图“证明”那座山对我而言太过艰难，好让我放弃。
我无视他的劝阻，继续攀登。大约半小时后，其他登山队伍的头灯出现在我们正上方，他们沿着清晰可见的既定路径平稳前行。雷纳尔多被迫停止施压，并调整了行进路线——因为其他登山者的出现让他的欺骗行为再也遮掩不住了。
多亏了我自身的坚韧不拔。我坚持了近8个小时，最终在海拔5,690米的山坡上成功目睹了日出。由于极度疲劳，我在早上6点45分决定折返。那时我已无力动弹，雷纳尔多只能拖着双腿笔直的我沿着冰面往下走。虽然我理解迅速下撤的必要性，但如果雷纳尔多从一开始就能以专业的方式带我攀登，我绝对不会陷入如此筋疲力尽的境地。为了保护未来登山者们的安全与健康，我已正式举报这名向导，并向厄瓜多尔山地向导协会（ASEGUIM）提出了正式投诉。
尽管遇到了这位极不专业的向导，马查奇的住宿环境依然干净舒适，租赁的装备也状况良好，司机们更是细心且专业。
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