点评:Although the city has a long and glorious history, under the name of Telmessos (and before that, as an area of Hittite influence, of Kuwalapašša), and although the Lycian rock tombs are clearly visible on the cliff behind the city, a reminder of this glorious past, Fethiye overall has a modern appearance. Much of the urban fabric is due to reconstruction after the disastrous earthquake of 1957.
It seems that a decisive boost to the tourist industry occurred in the 1990s. I haven't read anything about it, but I suspect that the process (as with Turkish seaside resorts in general) was favored by the impracticability of the eastern Adriatic coast for tourism, due to the Yugoslav civil war.
The result today is a distinct succession of pubs, restaurants, hotels, and shops, clearly aimed primarily at foreigners, throughout the central areas, and from the seafront for several blocks inland, where urbanization is halted by the looming hill.
Having visited Fethiye in the low season (around March 20th), we noted a common feature of all seaside resorts: the downtown area is oversized compared to the permanent population. The bazaar is half-deserted; the restaurants, even if they are open awaiting the first customers, are half-deserted as well; the seafront is a lovely place to stroll. The exceptions are a few eateries, clearly favored by the local population, which are therefore almost full, at least in the evening.
Overall, downtown Fethiye is a pleasant area, showing the pros and cons of any busy seaside resort.
翻译:尽管费特希耶拥有悠久而辉煌的历史,其古称特尔梅索斯(Telmessos,更早之前,作为赫梯人影响下的地区,曾被称为库瓦拉帕沙Kuwalapašša),而且城后悬崖上清晰可见的利西亚岩窟墓群也见证着这段辉煌的过去,但费特希耶整体上呈现出现代化的面貌。城市肌理的很大一部分都源于1957年那场毁灭性地震后的重建。
旅游业似乎在20世纪90年代迎来了决定性的发展。我没有读到过相关的资料,但我猜测,这一过程(如同土耳其其他海滨度假胜地一样)得益于南斯拉夫内战导致亚得里亚海东部沿岸地区旅游业的衰落。
如今,市中心及沿海地区向内陆延伸数个街区,遍布着酒吧、餐厅、酒店和商店,这些场所显然主要面向外国游客,直到内陆地区被高耸的山丘阻隔,城市化进程才得以继续。
我们在淡季(大约3月20日)游览了费特希耶,发现所有海滨度假胜地都有一个共同的特点:市中心的规模相对于常住人口而言过大。集市冷冷清清,餐厅即便开门营业,也大多门可罗雀;海滨步道倒是非常适合漫步。只有少数几家餐馆例外,显然深受当地人喜爱,因此几乎总是座无虚席,至少在晚上是这样。
总的来说,费特希耶市中心是一个令人愉悦的地方,展现了所有繁忙海滨度假胜地的优缺点。