点评:If you're deciding between Poplar Forest and Monticello and only have time for one, I'd recommend Monticello. However, if you're interested in Thomas Jefferson and want to see another of his architectural masterpieces, Poplar Forest is definitely worth a stop.
There wasn't a live guided tour the day I visited (so I gave it 4 stars), but the self-guided audio tour made up for it. Bring headphones if you have them, although the house wasn't crowded when I visited, so I simply listened through my phone's speaker. I especially liked sitting in the Windsor chairs placed in each room while listening to the narration in each room—it made the visit feel more immersive.
The house itself is much smaller than Monticello, so plan on about an hour to an hour and a half for your visit. Be sure to ask about the short introductory film in the visitor center. I didn't realize it was included until I was leaving, but it's only about 15–20 minutes and provides a great overview before or after your tour.
One of my favorite parts was seeing the ongoing restoration work. Some rooms even had the fresh smell of newly finished wood, which made me imagine what the house may have smelled like when Jefferson was living/visiting there as he was continually improving and updating it. The literal centerpiece is the dining room... be sure to look up at the skylight that fills the center of the house with natural light. Even on a cloudy day, the room was surprisingly bright. Also, take a close look at the plates on the table that had an octagonal design... and other design elements that reflect Jefferson's love of geometry, a theme found throughout the house.
The views from the property are beautiful. Be sure to look at the carriage displayed in one of the outbuildings—it's behind glass, so photographing it can be difficult, but it's impressive to see up close and was thought to be similar to one Jefferson had. There are also two archaeological outbuildings where you can look through the windows to see ongoing work, and the gift shop is worth browsing before you leave.
Don't miss the lower-level service spaces beneath the side wing which was where the kitchen and the quarters used by Jefferson's personal servants were. They're an important part of understanding how the estate functioned.
One small tip: I arrived right around opening, and while it wasn't crowded—a nice perk of an early start—the grass was still covered with dew and there isn't much of a defined path to some of the outbuildings, so expect your shoes to get a little wet.
Finally, remember that Poplar Forest relies heavily on admissions and donations to support preservation and restoration. If you enjoy your visit, consider your admission fee as helping preserve this remarkable place for future generations—or make an additional donation if you're able.
Even in Monticello's shadow, Poplar Forest earns its place on a Jefferson itinerary.
翻译:如果你在波普勒森林和蒙蒂塞洛之间做选择,且时间只允许参观一处的话,我推荐蒙蒂塞洛。不过,如果你对托马斯·杰斐逊感兴趣,想看看他的另一件建筑杰作,那么波普勒森林绝对值得一去。
我到访的那天没有现场导游服务(因此我给了4颗星的评价),但自助式语音导览弥补了这一缺憾。如果有的话,记得带上耳机;不过我参观时,宅子里并没有太多游客。于是我就通过手机扬声器来聆听解说。我特别喜欢坐在每个房间里的温莎椅上听解说——这让整个参观过程更具沉浸感。
这座宅邸的规模远比蒙蒂塞洛小,因此预计参观全程需要一小时到一个半小时左右。一定要问问游客中心是否有简短的介绍影片。直到离开时我才知道原来还有这样的影片可看。不过整个过程只需15到20分钟左右,能在参观前后帮助您对整个庄园有一个大致的了解。
我最喜欢的部分就是观看正在进行的修复工作。有些房间里甚至能闻到刚刚处理过的木材所散发的清新气味,这让我不禁想象起杰斐逊居住或到访此处时,这座房子会是什么气味——毕竟他一直在不断地修缮和翻新它。整座庄园的真正核心区域就是餐厅……一定要抬头看看那个将自然光线引入房屋中央的天窗。即便是在阴天,房间里也异常明亮。此外,请仔细看看桌上那些带有八角形图案的盘子……以及其他能体现出杰斐逊对几何学热爱的设计元素,这种风格在整个房子里随处可见。
从这片庄园中欣赏到的景色也十分迷人。千万别错过参观其中一座附属建筑里展出的马车——它就陈列在玻璃橱窗中。拍摄它或许有些困难,但近距离观看仍令人赞叹不已;人们认为它与杰斐逊拥有的那座建筑颇为相似。园内还有两座考古相关的附属建筑,透过窗户可以看到正在进行的工作。离开前,也值得去礼品店逛一逛。
千万别错过侧翼建筑下方的下层服务区,那里曾是杰斐逊的私人仆从们使用的厨房与居住区。它们是了解这座庄园如何运作的重要部分。
一个小提示:我在开放时间刚到,虽然当时并不拥挤——早起参观的一大好处就是人少——但草地上还沾着露水,而且通往一些附属建筑的路径也不太明显。因此,预计您的鞋子会稍微湿一点。
最后,请记住,波普勒森林庄园的保护与修复工作在很大程度上依赖门票收入和捐赠。如果您喜欢这次参观体验的话。请将入场费视为您为子孙后代保护这一非凡之地的贡献吧;如果您有能力,也欢迎额外捐款。
即便身处蒙蒂塞洛的光环之下,波普勒森林依然值得被列入杰斐逊之旅的行程清单。