点评:Strolling through downtown Skagway is like walking onto a 19th-century movie studio set, complete with historical props and vivid characters. Turning back the clock to 1897, this area transformed overnight from a quiet tent camp into a chaotic, crowded, and lawless boomtown. It quickly filled with bustling wood-and-canvas storefronts, muddy streets, and rowdy saloons to meet the needs of thousands of arriving stampeders, packers, fortune seekers and money-making opportunists.
When the dreams of Gold Rush chasers dissipated, death and brokenness threatened to turn Skagway into a ghost town. However, its strategic link to the deep waterways of the Lynn Canal eventually made it a prime destination for commercial cruise lines. While majority of the modern visitors arrive by cruise ship, a few independent travelers—like us—arrive via the Alaska Marine Highway System (AMHS), the Klondike Highway, or small planes.
We spent most of our first day at the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park Visitor Center (originally the 1898 White Pass & Yukon Route Broadway Depot) and the Junior Ranger Activity Center (housed inside the historic 1897 Pantheon Saloon, learning about the area's rich history. From there, we visited the museum inside the White Pass and Yukon Route Administration Building (dating back to 1900), admired the uniquely built AB Hall (The Arctic Brotherhood Hall) with its stunning façade covered in over 8,000 pieces of driftwood, browsed the Mascot Saloon and Liquor Shop museum (dating back to 1898), and explored Moore’s Cabin and Homestead (built between 1887 and 1897). For a bit of fun, we hopped inside a free-to-enter vintage White Pass steam engine snowplow train carriage located on Spring St., and walked past several beautifully preserved wooden structures tied to the stories of early settlers, skill trades and social life.
We also stopped by Wells Fargo, historically known as the only traditional bank in town, to check out its antique banking gadgets and historic display vault. We had a great time chatting with the staff to learn how financial systems operated back in the 19th century.
To wrap up the day, we treated ourselves to a famous, plate-sized cinnamon sugar fried bread from the Klondike Doughboy, followed by dinner at the iconic Red Onion Saloon. It was a wonderfully quiet evening to enjoy the historic buildings along Broadway and a fantastic way to immerse ourselves in the folklore of the good and bad characters of the Gold Rush era.
翻译:漫步在斯卡格威的市中心,就像走进了19世纪的电影片场——到处都是具有历史感的道具和栩栩如生的人物形象。时光倒流至1897年,这片地区在一夜之间便从一个安静的露营地摇身变为一片混乱、拥挤且毫无秩序的淘金热城镇。为了满足成千上万涌入的淘金者、搬运工以及各路逐利之徒的需求,这里迅速出现了众多木制结构、帆布遮蔽的商店、泥泞不堪的街道以及喧嚣热闹的酒馆。当淘金热追随者的梦想破灭后,死亡与荒芜几乎让斯卡格韦变成一座鬼城。然而,由于其地处林恩运河深水航道的关键位置,这里最终成为了商业游轮航线的重要停靠点。如今,大多数游客都是乘游轮前来,但也有少数独行旅客——比如我们——选择通过阿拉斯加海上公路系统、克朗代克公路或小型飞机抵达此地。我们在第一天的大部分时间里都待在克朗代克淘金热国家历史公园游客中心(该建筑原为1898年建成的白坡道与育空路线百老汇车站)以及少年护林员活动中心(设在具有历史意义的1897年建造的万神殿酒馆内),借此了解这一地区的悠久历史。随后,我们又参观了白坡道与育空路线管理局大楼里的博物馆,该大楼始建于1900年。我们欣赏了建筑风格独特的AB大厅(北极兄弟会大厅),其外墙由8,000多块浮木装饰,极为壮观;还参观了建于1898年的吉祥物酒馆与酒类商店博物馆;并探访了建于1887年至1897年间的摩尔小屋及庄园。为了增添些许乐趣,我们还走进了位于斯普林街上、可供免费进入的怀特帕斯蒸汽机车除雪列车车厢。我们漫步走过好几座保存完好的木制建筑,它们与早期定居者的故事、手工技艺以及当时的社会生活紧密相连。
我们还顺道参观了富国银行——历史上镇上唯一一家传统银行,欣赏那里的古老银行设备以及陈列着历史文物的保险库。我们与工作人员畅谈甚欢,了解了19世纪时的金融体系是如何运作的。
一天行程的尾声,我们尽情享受了一顿闻名遐迩的美食。先品尝了克朗代克面团店制作的、盘子大小的肉桂糖炸面包,随后在极具标志性的红洋葱酒馆享用晚餐。那是一个宁静美好的夜晚,我们得以尽情欣赏百老汇大街两旁的历史建筑,也以一种绝佳的方式沉浸在了淘金热时代那些正反两面人物的传奇故事中。