点评:We spent 5 days in the Dordogne, and after canoeing from Vitrac to Beynac on Saturday, we wanted to see the valley a different way by renting bikes. I reserved online ahead of time (a regular bike for me, since I’m very tall, and an e-bike for my wife). The bikes were ready when we arrived, and the owner made sure we had helmets and a lock.
My wife was anxious about cycling on the road, and he gave us great advice: ride about a meter in from the edge, so if a car passes too close you still have room to move over without going off the road.
We cycled from Castelnaud to La Roque-Gageac. There was more traffic than I’d expected for a Sunday morning because of an outdoor market. We spent an hour or so exploring the town before heading on to Beynac, where we locked our bikes in a riverside parking lot, toured the castle, and had a nice lunch nearby.
We’d planned to ride on to Marqueyssac, but we also wanted time for the Voie Verte, and my wife was tiring of sharing the road with cars. So we returned to Castelnaud and took the greenway along the Céou toward Daglan. It was gorgeous: farmland, and a stretch beside crystal-clear turquoise water (I wish more of the route followed the river). It was a hot afternoon, and we ran low on water, so we didn’t make it all the way to Daglan. Still, it was a really fun day and one of the highlights of our trip. (We came back a few days later to see Marqueyssac and Castelnaud, and both are WELL worth visiting. I arguably liked them more than La Roque-Gageac and Beynac.)
The owner was very friendly, and I think he’s part British. We enjoyed chatting with him and probably took up too much of his morning! When we returned around 4:00, he’d had to step out to pick up his child, but he answered right away when we called and walked us through locking up the bikes and leaving the keys. Easy, and very accommodating.
翻译:我们在多尔多涅地区度过了5天。周六,我们从维特拉克乘独木舟前往贝纳克,之后便想通过骑自行车来以另一种方式领略这片山谷的风光。我提前在线预订了自行车——由于我身高较高,为自己订了一辆普通自行车,又为妻子订了一辆电动自行车。我们到达时自行车已准备好,店主还确保我们带上了头盔和锁。
我的妻子对在公路上骑车有些顾虑,店主给了我们很好的建议:骑车时尽量靠路边一米左右的位置行驶。所以,即使有汽车开得太近,你仍然有空间挪动身位而不会驶出路面。
我们从卡斯特诺德骑行到拉罗克-加热克。由于当天有露天集市,周日上午的车流量比我预想的要多。我们在镇上逗留了大约一小时四处游玩,随后前往贝纳克。在那里我们把自行车锁在河边的停车场,参观了城堡,还在附近享用了一顿美味的午餐。
我们原计划继续骑行到马尔凯萨克,但也想留出些时间来体验一下那条绿色步道。我的妻子也渐渐厌烦了与汽车共享道路。于是我们回到卡斯特诺,沿着塞乌河旁的绿道向达格兰进发。沿途景色美不胜收:有大片农田,还有一段沿着清澈见底的绿松石色河水的路径(真希望整条路线都能沿着河流延伸)。那是一个酷热的午后,我们的水也快喝完了,所以没能一路走到达格兰。不过,这仍是非常愉快的一天,也是我们此行最难忘的体验之一。(几天后我们又返回,去游览了马克塞萨克和卡斯特诺。)这两处都绝对值得一游。可以说,我更喜欢它们胜过拉罗克-加热克和贝纳克。)
店主非常友善,我觉得他有一半英国血统。我们很享受与他交谈的时光,大概占用了他一整个早上的时间呢!下午4点左右我们返回时,他正要出门去接孩子,不过我们打电话后他立刻接听,还亲自指导我们如何锁好自行车并留下钥匙。服务简便又贴心。