点评:I could not have made a better choice for my getaway vacation than Gros Morne. It is a place that bathes your senses in beauty and renews your soul. The mountains and sea are breathtakingly beautiful, the vegetation rich and diverse, and the sea air so pure and clean that standing on the porch and breathing deeply was an event in itself. The sky was a constant source of wonder, with stunning cloud formations, flocks of migrating birds, spectacular sunrises and sunsets, and starry skies where constellations were clear and seemed very close. Much of the success of this vacation was due to picking what was for us, the perfect touring company. My friend and I, both in our late 70's, booked the Explore Gros Morne Active Senior /Cultural Tour. Explore Gros Morne is a small company run by Daine Hulan and his son Ethyn, both a pleasure to deal with. At a time when over 90% of young people Ethyn's age leave Newfoundland to find work, Ethyn, like his father elected to stay and take on the challenge of making a living, which already tells you much about them. Daine has a wide range of interests, and has lived experience that informs his tours. He has fished for cod, and lobster, cleared land for planting organic potatoes, hunted for game, raised chickens, built houses, spent years as a wilderness and hunting guide, and is working on being able to live completely off grid (See the Off grid Newfie on YouTube). He also plays guitar, sings, and writes some of his own songs. Stories about the land, the lifestyle, the history and the people flow naturally from him, and contribute much to the flavour of the experience. Daine has made the decision to keep tour groups small so that the experience can feel personal and so that he can accommodate and adjust to the group's pace instead of the opposite. Our small group of 3 included someone who couldn't have gluten, someone with a nut allergy, someone who needed distilled water for a CPAP machine, someone who had to have access to wifi at a specific time in case her phone data failed, and different levels of hiking ability and endurance. Every single need was taken care of. We were based in Sally's Cove, population 17, and lived in a modest but comfortable house with ensuite bathrooms. We were provided with ingredients to make our own breakfasts, which allowed us to stay in our pyjamas until after we had eaten and made for very relaxed mornings. When we made requests for additional items, Daine provided them within a day. Lunches and dinners were either at home or in restaurants. Home meals included local cod, halibut, salmon, and we even got to try moose (spoiler alert - tastes like roast beef). Special treats included Daine's organic potatoes, fresh picked raspberries from the family farm, the largest organic eggs I have ever seen, and a trip to the local ice cream shop. We were taken to multiple museums run by Parks Canada as well as tiny ones in historic homes in several of the local communities. We were never rushed, and were able to spend time chatting with staff, all of whom were very proud of their heritage. Daine and Ethyn took us to multiple beaches, sandy ones great for swimming, and rocky ones where we got miniature geology lessons. There was also a visit to the family pond (lake in mainlander speak), and through woods and marshes where Daine pointed out the local vegetation and moose tracks, and patiently waited for us while we got excited about the many varieties of moss, berries, etc, and just had to keep taking photos. One of the highlights was dinner on water where we were serenaded by local musicians. We also had a great evening on the front bridge (deck) with Daine and Ethyn playing guitar and singing. Sadly, we weren't able to go sea kayaking as the water was too choppy, but were able to take the boat tour to the fiords, which aren't technically fiords, but that's a story for another day and they were stunning. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Newfoundland,hope that I will be able to return, and would highly recommend the Explore Gros Morne touring company.
翻译:对于这次度假之地,我实在找不到比格罗斯莫恩更好的选择了。这里的美景浸润着你的感官,让心灵得到净化与重生。群山与大海美得令人屏息,植被繁茂且种类繁多,海风纯净清新得仿佛能洗涤心灵——仅仅是站在门廊上深呼吸一次,便成了一种享受。天空更是奇迹不断:形态各异的云朵、成群迁徙的候鸟,还有壮丽无比的日出与日落。星空璀璨,星座清晰可见,仿佛近在咫尺。这次旅行的成功在很大程度上要归功于我们选择了一家对我们来说堪称完美的旅游公司。我和朋友都已是70多岁的老人了,我们报名参加了“Explore Gros Morne老年/文化体验游”。Explore Gros Morne是一家由Daine Hulan和他的儿子Ethyn经营的小型公司,与他们打交道十分愉快。在如今超过90%的年轻人都离开纽芬兰去外地找工作的时代,Ethyn却……和他父亲一样,他选择留下来,迎接谋生的挑战,这一点已然能反映出他们的性格特点。戴恩兴趣广泛,丰富的生活经历也为其导游工作提供了充实的素材。他曾捕过鳕鱼和龙虾,清理土地用来种植有机土豆,打过猎、养过鸡,还盖过房子。多年来,他一直担任野外探险与狩猎向导,如今正努力实现完全脱离电网的独立生活(可前往YouTube观看“Off grid Newfie”视频)。他还会弹吉他、唱歌,并创作一些自己的歌曲。关于这片土地、当地生活方式、历史以及人民的故事从他口中娓娓道来,为整个体验增添了诸多趣味。Daine决定控制旅游团的规模,这样能让参与者获得更贴心的体验;同时他也能根据团队的节奏来调整行程,而非让团队迁就固定的行程安排。我们这一行人只有3位,其中有一位不能食用麸质,还有一位对坚果过敏。有人需要蒸馏水来给CPAP机器使用;有人则需要在特定时间能上网,以防手机流量用尽。此外,大家的徒步能力与耐力水平也各不相同。但所有的需求都得到了满足。我们住在人口仅17人的萨莉湾,住在一栋虽简朴却舒适的房子里,每个房间都带独立卫生间。我们还获得了制作早餐所需的各种食材。这样我们就可以穿着睡衣直到吃完饭,享受无比轻松的早晨。当我们提出需要额外物品时,Daine总是在一天之内就把它们送过来。午餐和晚餐不是在家里吃就是在餐馆里享用。家里的餐食有当地的鳕鱼、大比目鱼和三文鱼,我们甚至还尝到了麋鹿肉(剧透一下:味道类似于烤牛肉)。特别的美食还包括Daine提供的有机土豆、自家农场新鲜采摘的覆盆子,以及我见过的最大的有机鸡蛋。我们还去了当地的冰淇淋店。加拿大公园管理局管理的多家博物馆,以及各个当地社区里设在历史故居中的小型博物馆,我们都参观过了。整个过程并不匆忙,我们还有机会与工作人员畅谈,他们都对自己的文化遗产感到无比自豪。Daine和Ethyn带我们去了好几处海滩:有些是适合游泳的沙滩,有些则是布满岩石的海滩,在那里我们还上了小型的地质学课程。此外,我们还去参观了那片“家庭池塘”(用内陆人的说法就是“湖”)。我们穿过树林与沼泽,戴恩向我们介绍了当地的植被以及驼鹿的足迹。当我们为种类繁多的苔藓、浆果等而兴奋不已、不停地拍照时,他则耐心地在一旁等候。最精彩的环节之一便是水上晚餐,当地音乐家为我们演奏助兴。我们还和戴恩、伊辛一起在前甲板上度过了一个美好的夜晚,他们弹着吉他、唱着歌。遗憾的是,由于海面波涛汹涌,我们没能去进行海上皮划艇之旅。不过我们还是得以乘船游览那些“峡湾”——虽然严格来说它们并不算峡湾,但这是另一个故事了。那些地方真是美不胜收。我在纽芬兰度过了愉快的时光,希望将来还能再去。我强烈推荐Explore Gros Morne这家旅游公司。