点评:Advice for Solo Trekkers 2026:
The advice from 2019 was a game changer for us so after doing the simien mountains solo, I thought I’d give an update with our personal tips for all the ones wanting to do it in 2026 :)
In short: the simien mountains are beautiful and a definite must for backpackers in Ethiopia, especially if they like unique landscapes! We did it solo and ended up paying around 45$ each for one night/ two days in the national park and yes it’s even possible for less so don’t listen to all the tour guides trying to convince you that you have to book a tour!
Important note:
We came during dry season in February with very few tourists so information might change in a different season, especially the possibility to bargain usually decreases during high season.
Tour vs. Solo:
A tour is definitely the more convenient option, as they organise food, accommodation and especially the tricky transport part for you but you can do it solo if you want it cheaper or just more adventurous. We recommend lots of patience, good negotiation skills and being able to have fun with some inconveniences.
Our route:
We only did two days because we got sick in Gonder and had to shorten our trip but it was still very worth it!
Day 1: Buyit Ras- Sankaber (3-4h)
Day 2: Sankaber- water falls and back along the main road until we got picked up by a public bus (2-3h)
Getting there:
You can take the public mini bus from Gonder to Debark, which is a 2.5h ride and they go fairly frequently during the day but better be safe than sorry and go early if you want a good seat and not be one of the 15-30 extra people who are crammed in the aisle. The bus cost us 600birr each which is more than the locals but you better get used to being overcharged.
They drop you at the national park office, this is where you get your guide and scout. We came on the day we wanted to start the trek and this was no problem.
National Park Office and essential costs:
We got a guide and a scout which was 1400 and 800 respectively per day (plus tip at the end). We are still not sure if a guide is mandatory, they said yes but honestly you never know. Ours was very helpful tho and not expensive and he even helped us bargain public transport wich was super nice, considering that everyone tries to convince you that you have to get a jeep in the park.
Accommodation:
Opt1: So the cheapest option is coming with your own tent, sleeping bag, cooking equipment and food which means no extra costs.
Opt2: You can also rent a tent and sleeping bag at the office for around 400birr per day and maybe buy a little pot etc. in town so you can cook on open fire at the camp.
Opt3: We were lazy and didn’t want to carry extra weight so we opted for the so called „community lodge“ which was also 400birr per person per day. This name is definitely a stretch cause it turned out to be a bunker with some iron beds and dusty blankets that we shared with the guides and scouts. We didn’t mind tho cause my Kenyan friend who never experienced anything below 15 degrees Celsius was freezing so we were happy to sleep somewhere with a roof.
Food and Water:
We took our own food into the park and wanted to ask one of the tour chefs to lend us a little pot so we could cook on a campfire but in the end he cooked our food for us for 500birr and even added his own ingredients. Take lots of water! During the dry season there was only one water source on day two and that is not drinkable if you don’t have a filter and or purification pills. You also have to buy water for your guide and scout in Debark for the duration of your stay. We also had some snacks we shared with them on the way.
The tricky part: Transportation
The most expensive part of the whole trip is the transport from debark into the park and the pick up on your last day. Into the park you can walk which adds half or a full day but at least on your last day you will need to get out somehow. The office will try to make you get a four by four jeep for 100$ both ways.
We said we couldn’t pay that so they offered us a Tuktuk which we got for 30$ into the park and we said we figure the way back out ourselves. They weren’t really happy with that but let us go so we drove around 2h with our scout and guide in a little tuktuk into the park. At the entrance they had to argue because apparently it is not allowed for tourists to use tuktuks in the park but they reluctantly let us go.
On our second day our guide was really helpful, he said he would try to get us public transport to get out of the park and negotiated the price for us which was 20$ in the end for a 2h drive and four people (with our scout and the guide). Public transport is a truck where most people sit on top but they found it very funny to take a farangi so they placed us in the front seat that we shared with two other people and the driver. Just a heads up we don’t know how much they would have charged us if our guide hadn’t translated or if other guides would tell you it’s impossible to take the public bus so good luck. We also don’t know how it is from other camps further in the national park.
The hikes:
The hikes were beautiful along the ridge of the high plateau and very doable even for beginners. You have an insane view and get the pictures from all possible angles. Not sure how the view would change the next days tho cause they told us it’s mostly along the ridge of the cliff.
The water fall, one of the highest in Africa, was as my friend put it a little anticlimactic because it had very little water because of the dry season but still impressive.
Final advice:
Be persistent when negotiating.
Be open to not plan everything beforehand but rather make plans along the way as they change and opportunities come.
Don’t let them make you believe you have to get something you’re sure is optional.
Maybe have some extra change if you want to buy small baskets from local kids, they are gonna follow you along the way.
We were very glad that we did it ourselves, not only because of the money, but also because we had much more interactions with the locals and the scouts and it felt like a very lived experience in Ethiopia, definitely one of my Highlights!
Hope this helps anyone backpacking Ethiopia!
翻译:2026年单人徒步旅行者的建议:
2019年的建议对我们影响很大,所以在独自游览了西米恩山脉之后,我想分享一些我们的个人经验,希望能帮助到所有计划在2026年独自前往的朋友们 :)
简而言之:西米恩山脉风景优美,绝对是埃塞俄比亚背包客的必游之地,尤其适合喜欢独特地貌的旅行者!我们是独自前往的,在国家公园住了一晚两天,每人大约花费了45美元。而且,价格还可以更低,所以不要听那些导游的,他们总是劝你跟团!
重要提示:我们是在二月份的旱季去的,当时游客很少。所以,不同季节的信息可能会有所不同,尤其是在旺季,讨价还价的可能性会降低。
旅行团 vs. 自助游:
跟团游无疑是更便捷的选择,因为旅行社负责安排餐饮、住宿,尤其是交通方面的问题。但如果您想省钱或者想体验更刺激的旅行,也可以选择自助游。我们建议您保持足够的耐心,具备良好的谈判技巧,并且能够坦然面对旅途中的一些不便。
我们的路线:
我们只去了两天,因为在贡德尔生病了,不得不缩短行程,但即便如此,这次旅行仍然非常值得!
第一天:布伊特拉斯 - 桑卡贝尔(3-4小时)
第二天:桑卡贝尔 - 瀑布,然后沿着主路返回,直到我们搭乘公共汽车(2-3小时)
交通方式:
您可以从贡德尔乘坐公共小巴前往德巴克,车程约2.5小时。小巴白天班次较多,但为了安全起见,最好早点出发,以免挤在过道里,和其他15-30人挤在一起。巴士票价每人600比尔,比当地人贵,但你最好习惯被宰。
他们会把你送到国家公园办公室,在那里你可以找到向导和侦察员。我们当天就到了,正好是开始徒步的那天,所以没问题。
国家公园办公室和必要费用:
我们雇了一位向导和一位侦察员,每天的费用分别是1400比尔和800比尔(最后还要给小费)。我们还不确定向导是否是强制性的,他们说是,但说实话,谁也说不准。我们的向导非常乐于助人,而且收费也不贵,他还帮我们砍价买公共交通工具,这真是太好了,因为每个人都想说服你一定要在公园里坐吉普车。
住宿:
方案一:最便宜的方案是自带帐篷、睡袋、炊具和食物,这样就不用额外花钱了。
方案二:你也可以在办公室租帐篷和睡袋,大约每天400比尔,还可以在镇上买个小锅之类的东西,这样就可以在营地生火做饭了。
方案三:我们比较懒,也不想背额外的重量,所以选择了所谓的“社区小屋”,也是每人每天400比尔。这个名字实在名不副实,因为它其实就是一个地堡,里面有几张铁床和满是灰尘的毯子,我们得和向导和童子军挤在一起。不过我们并不介意,因为我那位从未经历过低于15摄氏度的肯尼亚朋友冻得够呛,所以能睡在有屋顶的地方我们已经很开心了。
食物和水:
我们自带了食物进公园,本来想请一位导游厨师借个小锅,这样我们就可以在篝火上做饭了,结果他最后帮我们做了饭,收了我们500比尔,还加了他自己的调料。一定要带足水!旱季期间,第二天只有一个水源,如果没有滤水器或净水药片,那里的水是不能饮用的。你还得在德巴克(Debark)为你的向导和侦察员购买饮用水,以备整个行程之需。我们还带了一些零食,在路上和他们分享。
棘手的部分:交通
整个行程中最贵的部分是从德巴克到公园的交通以及最后一天的接送。你可以步行进入公园,但这会增加半天或一天的时间,不过至少在最后一天你总得想办法离开。办公室会试图让你租一辆四驱吉普车,往返要价100美元。
我们说我们付不起,所以他们给我们提供了一辆嘟嘟车,我们花了30美元坐车进公园,然后说我们自己想办法回去。他们不太高兴,但还是让我们走了,于是我们和侦察员、向导一起坐了大约两个小时的嘟嘟车进了公园。在入口处,他们费了一番周折才让我们离开,因为公园里似乎不允许游客乘坐嘟嘟车,但他们最终还是勉强放我们走了。
第二天,我们的导游非常热心,他说他会尽量帮我们叫公共交通工具离开公园,并帮我们砍价,最终四个人(包括我们的向导和领队)两个小时的车程只要20美元。公共交通工具是一辆卡车,大多数人都坐在车厢顶部,但他们觉得载一个外国人很有趣,所以就把我们安排在了前排座位上,和另外两个人以及司机一起坐。友情提示:我们不知道如果没有导游翻译,他们会收我们多少钱,也不知道其他导游会不会告诉你根本没法坐公共汽车,所以祝你好运。我们也不知道从国家公园更深处的其他营地出发情况如何。
徒步:
沿着高原山脊的徒步路线风景优美,即使是初学者也能轻松完成。沿途风光令人叹为观止,可以从各个角度拍照。不过,我们不确定接下来几天的景色会有什么变化,因为他们说大部分路段都在悬崖山脊上。
瀑布是非洲最高的瀑布之一,正如我朋友所说,由于正值旱季,水量很小,所以有点令人失望,但仍然很壮观。
最后建议:
谈判时要坚持不懈。
不要提前计划好一切,而是根据实际情况和机会随时调整计划。
不要让他们让你觉得你必须接受一些你确定是可选项的东西。
如果你想从当地孩子那里买些小篮子,最好带点零钱,他们会一路跟着你。
我们非常庆幸自己做了这件事,不仅因为省钱,还因为我们和当地人以及童子军有了更多互动,感觉像是真正体验了一把埃塞俄比亚的生活,绝对是我此行的亮点之一!
希望这能帮到计划在埃塞俄比亚背包旅行的朋友们!