点评:As a first timer it was a great experience negotiating my way there from Dushambe to Hisor Fortress by marshutka, taxi, taxi. And then to return from Hisor Fortress to Dushanbe by taxi & a one last marshutka! And all for the price of 25.5 Somoni. In fact I could have done it for 20.5 Somoni had I found out where to get the No. 270 Marshutka from Dushambe to Hisor Town.
So, to get to Hisor Fortress...(relevant on 21 October 2026 and as per my experience 🤔)
Either:
1. Get to Zarnisar Bazaar by whatever route is best for you - lots of buses go there, I took Marshukta 26 but you coud also get bus No. 8 and many others. Or you could of course take a Jura taxi. Use Yandex maps to know the right bus route, it's pretty good.
For further reference, this bazaar is a 20 minute walk from the US Embassy.
Then at this bazaar you' ll see taxi men gather in the car park. You'll need to ask them if they're going to Kalai Hisor. They'll send you to the relevant taxi man. That taxi man then waits until he has 4 passengers in total before leaving. This taxi then takes you to Hisor Town and no further. This taxi cost me 10 Somoni and I shared the ride with 3 others.
While you could walk from Hisor town to the fortress, if you like walking, it's easier to get another taxi the rest of the way. I took a taxi and it cost me 4 Somoni. It was also shared with 3 others. I then got out at the entrance to the fort and paid 20 Somoni to enter.
2. Instead of doing the above, you could get marshutka no. 270 from Dushambe to Hisor Town and then get a taxi to the fort (as described above). This Marshutka cost me 5 somoni. Fantastic value.
Also while you need to keep your wits about you in any new place, I found the taxi men to be quite straight. You need to very strsight & clear yourself too. It cuts out a lot of nonsense. So, learn a few basic words in Tajik like, 'how much?' And 'is this bus/taxi going to Hisor?' Etc. By the way, on the way back from Hisor Fort, make sure to go back the same way. Meaning, taxi to Hisor Town and change there to go back to Dushambe. Taking a taxi all the way from Hisor Fortress to Dushambe is much more expensive!
I found the above to be cheapest and also quite quick. I asked around beforehand and I was quoted 250 Somoni for a return trip in a taxi (door to door) and the transfer company GetTransfer came up with 770 Somoni! This woukd also ave been door to door but extortionate.
All the above being said, Hisor is pretty but I didn't seethe point of visiting it. It's a replica Fortress & there's very little to see or do there, unless you're an enthusiast about vv the Fortress & like tatty gift shops. Oh and if it's cloudy or hazy - as it was for me - you can't even enjoy the view all that much.
If it wasn't for the experience of negotiating the ride, I'd give it a miss tbh!
翻译:作为第一次尝试的人,我通过乘坐小巴、出租车等方式从杜尚别顺利抵达希索尔要塞,这是一次很棒的体验。之后又从希索尔要塞坐出租车,最后再搭乘一趟小巴返回杜尚别!而整个行程的费用仅为25.5索莫尼。其实,如果我事先知道从杜尚别去希索尔镇的270号小巴的乘车地点,费用还可以降至20.5索莫尼呢。
那么,如何前往希索尔要塞呢……(此信息适用于2026年10月21日,源自我的亲身经历 🤔)
方法一:选择最适合您的路线前往扎尔尼萨尔市场吧——有很多公交车通往那里。我乘坐的是26路Marshukta巴士,不过8路及其他许多线路也可以到达。当然,您也可以打Jura出租车。建议使用Yandex地图来查询正确的公交路线,它相当好用。
供参考:该市场距离美国大使馆仅有20分钟步行路程。
到了市场后,您会看到许多出租车司机聚集在停车场。此时需要问问他们是否要前往卡莱希索尔。他们会把你交给相应的出租车司机。那位司机会一直等着,直到车上凑齐4名乘客才出发。这辆出租车只会把你送到希索尔镇,不会再往前送。这次乘车我支付了10索莫尼,车上还有另外3名乘客与我共乘。
虽然如果你喜欢步行的话,也可以从希索尔镇走到堡垒,但更简便的做法还是再叫一辆出租车完成剩下的路程。我叫了一辆出租车,车费是4索莫尼,车上同样还有另外3名乘客与我同乘。随后我在堡垒入口处下车,并支付了20索莫尼作为入场费。
2. 其实也可以不这么做:从杜尚别乘坐270号小巴前往希索尔镇,然后再打车去堡垒(如上所述)。这趟小巴的车费只要5索莫尼,性价比极高。
此外,虽然在任何陌生地方都需要保持警惕,但我发现当地的出租车司机都相当诚信。你自己也需表现得直率且坦诚,这样就能避免很多麻烦。所以,不妨学几句塔吉克语的基本用语吧。“多少钱?”以及“这辆巴士/出租车是去希索尔的吗?”等等。顺便说一下,从希索尔堡垒返回时,一定要原路返回。也就是说,先坐出租车到希索尔镇,再在那里换乘其他车返回杜尚别。如果直接从希索尔堡垒打车回杜尚别,费用会贵很多!
我觉得上述方式既最便宜又相当快捷。我事先打听过,正常情况下乘坐出租车往返(门到门服务)的费用约为250索莫尼。然而,GetTransfer这家接送服务公司给出的报价竟然是770索莫尼!虽然同样提供门到门服务,但这个价格实在离谱。
话虽如此,希索尔确实挺漂亮的,但我觉得没必要特意去游览。那不过是一座仿造的堡垒而已,除了那些破旧不堪的纪念品商店外,没什么可看或可做的,除非你对堡垒特别感兴趣。哦,如果天气多云或雾蒙蒙的——就像我遇到的情况那样——你甚至没法好好欣赏风景。
说实话,要不是有这次骑行的经历,我肯定会选择不去的!