点评:My wife and I spent 5 days in the Dordogne, and Castelnaud was my favorite castle of the trip. As a kid I loved anything medieval, especially castles and knights, and I spent hours building castles out of Legos. Castelnaud delivered on all of it and, for a little while, made me feel as excited as I was back then.
It probably helped that we’d seen it from almost every angle before we went in. We passed beneath it canoeing down the Dordogne, cycled past it on the way to La Roque-Gageac and Beynac, and used it as a landmark riding back through the Céou valley.
You enter through a round tower and climb a narrow staircase that winds around its edge. At the top is a room with a mounted knight and frescoed walls, followed by a room full of crossbows and several more rooms of armor. There were fewer swords than I expected, but the armor collection makes up for it.
The highlight comes when you step outside and find a whole collection of siege engines: a catapult, trebuchets, and a ballista. You can even touch the trebuchets and pretend to load and fire one. Beyond them is the castle courtyard, with sweeping views over the entire valley. The castle is beautiful from every side, and photographing it against that backdrop is a treat.
A note on mobility: the castle involves a lot of narrow, tight stairs. You can bypass the tower staircase, but the stairs up to the living quarters were even tighter. I’m tall and found them a squeeze. Visitors with mobility issues will find parts of the visit difficult.
Getting there: Our GPS sent us the wrong way, so follow the signs for the château once you’re close. You drive up a steep road to a paid parking lot near the top.
翻译:我和妻子在多尔多涅地区度过了5天,而卡斯特诺城堡是我此行中最喜欢的城堡。小时候我就痴迷于一切与中世纪相关的东西,尤其是城堡和骑士,还经常花好几个小时用乐高积木搭建城堡。卡斯特诺城堡完美满足了我的这些期待,让我有那么一会儿仿佛又回到了童年,重新体验到了当年的兴奋感。
或许还因为我们进堡前已经从各个角度观赏过它,才让体验更加完美。我们曾乘独木舟沿多尔多涅河顺流而下,从城堡下方经过。在前往拉罗克-加热克和贝纳克的路上,我骑车经过了那里,返回时则以它作为标志物来穿越塞乌河谷。
从一座圆形塔楼进入后,需沿着环绕塔身边缘的狭窄楼梯往上走。顶端有一个房间,里面有一尊骑马的骑士雕像,墙上还有壁画;再往里是一个摆满弩的房间,还有好几个陈列着盔甲的房间。这里的剑比我预想的要少,但丰富的盔甲收藏倒是弥补了这一缺憾。最精彩的部分在于当你走到外面时,会发现一系列攻城器械:投石机、弩炮以及弩车。你甚至可以触摸这些器械,假装装填弹药并发射。再往外就是城堡的庭院,从那里可以俯瞰整个山谷的壮丽景色。这座城堡从任何角度观赏都美不胜收,以这样的美景为背景拍照更是乐事。
关于行动便利性的提示:城堡内有许多狭窄且陡峭的楼梯。不过你可以绕过塔楼里的楼梯。不过通往居住区的楼梯则更加狭窄。我个子很高,走起来都觉得有些局促。行动不便的游客可能会觉得参观过程有些困难。
交通指南:我们的GPS给我们指了错误的路线,所以快到时请沿着通往城堡的指示牌行驶。需要沿着一条陡峭的公路行驶,才能到达顶部附近的收费停车场。