点评:In early September I spent two days exploring Nyungwe National Park, and I left wishing I had more time.
The first day was dedicated to chimpanzee tracking in Cyamudongo Forest, a small forest fragment that is part of the wider Nyungwe landscape. I went into this knowing very little about chimp tracking and completely underestimated how physically demanding it would be. The distance itself was not really the issue, it was the elevation! There are a lot of steep ups and downs, sometimes through dense forest, and I found it much harder than I expected. If you are planning to do the chimp tracking, I would definitely recommend preparing beforehand for the climbs and descents.
What I really appreciated was our guide. We had people in the group who could move very quickly and then there was me — decidedly at the other end of the speed spectrum! Somehow he managed to accommodate both, keeping the faster group moving while never making me feel that I was holding everyone back.
And then we found the chimpanzees.
It is difficult to describe what that encounter felt like without reducing it somehow. After the effort of getting there, suddenly being in the forest with them — hearing them, watching them move through the trees and simply being allowed into their world for a little while — was extraordinary. One of those wildlife encounters that I do not think needs too many words.
On the second day I explored the main area of Nyungwe around Uwinka, this time focusing on birds. After the previous day’s exertion, a slightly gentler pace was very welcome! Our birding guide, Jacques, was fantastic — extremely knowledgeable, kind and very good at reading both my interests and my rather tired legs. He respected my slow pace throughout the day while still showing just how much there is to discover in this forest.
Nyungwe is an exceptional place for birding, with around 345 recorded bird species, including 30 Albertine Rift endemics. But even if you are not a serious birder, there is constantly something to look at. The diversity is incredible.
I was also really impressed by how well the park is managed. The facilities were excellent, everything was extremely well kept, and the trails and infrastructure were in very good condition. There was a real sense of care for both the park and the people visiting it. African Parks, working in partnership with the Rwanda Development Board, seems to be doing a stellar job. It is encouraging to visit a protected area where conservation, tourism and good operational management seem to reinforce each other.
But what stayed with me most was the forest itself.
Nyungwe feels ancient. The huge trees, tree ferns, orchids, butterflies, birds and primates make you realise very quickly that the chimpanzees are only one part of an extraordinary ecosystem. There is life everywhere, and so much more to this park than its most famous residents.
The chimpanzees may be the reason many people come here, but the forest is the reason I would come back. Two days felt like barely an introduction.
I cannot wait to do it again — although next time I will train a little harder for those hills first! 😊
翻译:九月初,我花了两天时间游览尼亚姆韦格国家公园,离开时我只觉得遗憾,希望自己能有更多时间。
第一天,我在恰穆多戈森林里寻找黑猩猩的踪迹。这片小片森林属于尼亚姆韦格国家公园的一部分。出发前我对寻找黑猩猩的方法知之甚少,也完全低估了这项活动对身体素质的要求。距离本身倒不是问题,真正棘手的是地形的起伏!这里有太多陡峭的上坡与下坡路段。有时要穿过茂密的森林,我发现这比预想的要困难得多。如果你打算去追踪黑猩猩,我强烈建议事先做好上下坡训练。
最让我欣赏的是我们的向导。队伍里有些人行动速度极快,而我就是那个速度远远跟不上的“慢动作选手”!不过他 somehow 成功地照顾到了我们所有人。既能让速度较快的队伍继续前进,又绝不会让我产生自己拖了大家后腿的感觉。
后来我们发现了黑猩猩。
很难用言语来描述那次邂逅带给我的感受,稍有不慎就会显得过于简单化。历经一番努力才抵达那里,随后突然置身于有黑猩猩出没的森林中——听到它们的叫声,看着它们在树间穿梭,还能短暂地融入它们的世界——这种体验实在非同寻常。这样与野生动物的邂逅,我觉得实在无需太多言语来描述。
第二天,我沿着乌温卡一带探索了纽恩韦国家公园的主要区域,这次的重点是观鸟。经历了前一天的奔波之后,能放慢节奏休息一下真是太棒了!我们的观鸟向导雅克非常出色——知识渊博、和蔼可亲,还能敏锐地察觉我的兴趣所在以及我疲惫的双腿需要休息的需求。一整天里,他尊重我缓慢的步伐,同时也让我切实感受到这片森林中究竟有多少值得探索的事物。
尼永圭是个观鸟的绝佳之地,这里记录到的鸟类约有345种,其中30种为阿尔伯特裂谷地区的特有种。不过,即便你并非狂热的观鸟爱好者,这里也总有值得观赏的事物——生物多样性简直令人惊叹。
公园出色的管理也给我留下了深刻印象。各项设施都很优良,一切都打理得井然有序。小径和基础设施的状况都非常好。能明显感受到人们对公园以及游客的用心呵护。非洲公园组织与卢旺达发展局携手合作,似乎做得非常出色。能参观到一个在自然保护、旅游业以及良好运营管理方面相得益彰的保护区,实在令人鼓舞。
不过,最令我难忘的还是那片森林本身。
纽恩格威森林给人一种古老的感觉。那些参天的树木、树蕨、兰花……蝴蝶、鸟类和灵长类动物让我们迅速意识到:黑猩猩只不过是这个神奇生态系统中的一部分而已。这里到处都有生命存在,这座公园的魅力远不止于它那些最为著名的“居民”。
虽然黑猩猩是许多人前来此地的原因,但真正让我心心念念想要再来的,却是这片森林。仅仅两天的时间,对我们来说几乎只是个初步的探索罢了。
我迫不及待地想再次造访——不过下次出发前,我一定会先多训练一下,好应对那些上坡路!😊