点评:We first came here 15 years ago when it was a natural paradise. We walked through the olive groves with our snorkels in our backpacks and our umbrella under our arm. What a view when we arrived! An almost deserted beach in a deep sheltered cove with just a family-run taverna, mum in the kitchen, dad out back cooking fresh squid and local goat on the BBQ and the boys serving the food and beers and paddling out twice a day in a canoe to pick up the plastic and other detritus which inevitably drifts in from the sea. The only music was the wind and the waves.
Imagine our horror when we walked the same route this year to find the end of the road blocked and signs prohibiting your own umbella. There is an emormous beach bar complex complete with heavy wooden and matressed sun loungers (some like four poster beds), palm leaf umbrellas, african sculptures (why?) and music blasting out of speakers. We went to the bar to have a Greek coffee but they only do frappè (whatever that is). The delightful bay has been guillotined by a bright yellow plastic barrage presumably to stop the seals swimming in to sunbathe on the beach.
Nature has been evicted (along with the family who for decades ran the taverna) from Glisteri beach. And so have simple, nature-loving tourists like us who just want to enjoy peace, quiet, sun, walking and swimming for a couple of weeks per year. Clearly the Skopelos administration don't want tourists like us any more (we found other similar horrors on the island). Luckily Alonnisos still retains its simple natural beauty - but for how long?
翻译:十五年前我们第一次来到这里,那时这里还是一片自然天堂。我们背着潜水装备,腋下夹着遮阳伞,漫步在橄榄树林中。抵达时,眼前的景色令人叹为观止!一个几乎空无一人的海滩,坐落在一个深邃隐蔽的海湾里,只有一家家庭经营的小酒馆。妈妈在厨房忙碌,爸爸在后院的烧烤架上烤着新鲜的鱿鱼和当地的山羊肉,孩子们负责上菜和啤酒,每天两次划着独木舟去捡拾从海里漂来的塑料和其他垃圾。这里唯一的音乐就是风声和海浪声。
可想而知,今年我们沿着同样的路线走来,却发现路的尽头被封锁了,还有禁止自带遮阳伞的标志,我们当时有多么震惊。这里竟然建起了一个巨大的海滩酒吧,里面摆满了厚重的木制躺椅(有些像四柱床一样),棕榈叶遮阳伞,非洲雕塑(为什么?),还有震耳欲聋的音乐从音响里传出来。我们去酒吧想喝杯希腊咖啡,结果发现他们只卖冰沙(我也不知道那是什么)。原本迷人的海湾被一道亮黄色的塑料屏障围了起来,大概是为了阻止海豹游过来在沙滩上晒太阳。
大自然(以及经营了几十年的小酒馆的那家人)都被赶出了格利斯特里海滩。像我们这样热爱自然、只想每年享受几周宁静、阳光、散步和游泳的游客,也同样被驱逐了。显然,斯科普洛斯岛政府不再欢迎像我们这样的游客了(我们在岛上还发现了其他类似的糟心事)。幸运的是,阿洛尼索斯岛仍然保留着它那质朴的自然之美——但还能保持多久呢?