点评:The town of Gruyeres is a car-free zone today, unless one is a resident or has a special permit, say for deliveries. There are multiple lots for all the tourists who visit, and depending how late one arrives that determines how far down the hill, and thus how much of an uphill trot, one has. The main street into town is a grouping of maybe 2 blocks of buildings. Except for a few lights, this really feels like nothing has changed in the town in the last 800 years.
As it is pretty compact, I'd recommend maybe 1/2 day to spend here. Maybe a full day if you want to hike some of the trails. There is one main road through town that forks, one way going up the castle and the other down to the church. It's easy (and highly recommended!) to explore both paths as the town is so small.
There are good signs throughout explaining the historical significance of various buildings, so it is simple to do a self-guiding tour. Look for a small wall just outside one row of storefronts. It is only about a meter high, but has craters in the top. This was the old market lane of town, and the holes etched into the tops of the wall were for the vendors. Each is a specific size--and they were used to measure out grain, or other goods. It's very clever, and I've never seen anything like this before.
Although it is great to get here early and avoid the tour buses, the shops and restaurants don't really open until 10am. Definitely stop for a plate of cheese when you visit, or the other local specialty: meringue with Gruyere cream and fresh berries. It is not to be missed.
翻译:如今,格吕耶尔镇是无车区,除非是当地居民或持有特殊通行证(例如送货证)。镇上设有多个停车场供游客使用,根据到达时间的晚晚,停车地点会决定下山的距离,以及需要爬多少坡。通往镇中心的主街由大约两个街区的建筑组成。除了几盏红绿灯外,这座小镇仿佛在过去的800年里都没有发生过任何变化。
由于小镇面积不大,我建议在这里游览半天左右。如果您想徒步旅行,则可能需要一整天的时间。镇上有一条主路,这条路会分岔,一条路通往城堡,另一条路通往教堂。由于小镇很小,两条路都很容易探索(强烈推荐!)。
镇上到处都有清晰的指示牌,解释各个建筑的历史意义,因此很容易进行自助游览。您可以留意一排店铺门外的小墙。它只有大约一米高,但顶部却布满了小坑。这里曾是镇上的老集市街道,墙顶上的这些小坑是为商贩准备的。每个小坑的大小都不一样——用来计量谷物或其他货物。这真是个巧妙的设计,我以前从未见过。
虽然早点来这里避开旅游巴士是个好主意,但商店和餐馆通常要到上午十点才开门。来这里一定要尝尝奶酪,或者试试当地特色美食:蛋白酥皮配格鲁耶尔奶酪奶油和新鲜浆果。绝对不容错过。