点评:Let me start by saying this: I am a history aficionado.
I travel to visit museums, archaeological sites and places of historical significance. I am an avid collector of antiques, historical curiosities and books. Put me in front of an ancient ruin, an old battlefield or a pile of stones with a good story behind it, and I am a very happy man.
This week I am visiting Crete with my family, and one of the highlights of the trip was supposed to be the Palace of Knossos. I first learned about Knossos and the Minoan civilisation at school, and I had been looking forward to finally seeing it for myself for many years.
After a drive of roughly three hours from our base in Chania — an absolutely wonderful city, by the way — we arrived at Knossos. Unsurprisingly, there was a huge crowd, although getting through the entrance was quick and well organised.
And then… nothing.
I have walked through enormous crowds in Rome, Pompeii and countless other historic places, and they have still managed to captivate me. At Knossos, I felt absolutely no connection whatsoever. Nothing. Nada.
Very little seems to have been done to bring this extraordinary place to life for visitors or to properly explain what they are looking at, apart from a number of information boards. We actually ended up using ChatGPT while walking around the site to understand more about what we were seeing.
Unfortunately, the controversial reconstruction work carried out by archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans does not help. The massive blocks of reinforced concrete used to reconstruct parts of the palace make sections of the site feel strangely artificial. Instead of helping me imagine the Minoan world, I found much of it bleak and uninspiring.
And that was the frustrating part: intellectually, you know you are standing in an extraordinary place. Knossos was at the heart of one of Europe’s earliest great civilisations. You know that what lies beneath and around you is thousands of years old.
But I simply could not feel it.
My wife often laughs at me because I can become completely fascinated — and sometimes genuinely emotional — standing in front of what, to everyone else, looks like nothing more than a pile of old stones. History normally comes alive for me that way.
Not here.
Before we knew it, we had walked through the site and I was driving back to Chania feeling thoroughly disappointed.
One small consolation was remembering another remarkable piece of Cretan history connected with this area: the almost James Bond-like kidnapping of German General Heinrich Kreipe by British SOE officers and Cretan resistance fighters during the Second World War. For fellow history enthusiasts, the story is wonderfully told in W. Stanley Moss’s Ill Met by Moonlight (1950).
Perhaps other visitors will experience Knossos completely differently, and I genuinely hope they do. Its historical importance is beyond dispute.
But for this history lover, after years of looking forward to finally standing at Knossos, the Palace was an absolute disappointment.
翻译:首先我要说:我是个历史迷。
我喜欢四处旅行,去参观博物馆、考古遗址以及具有历史意义的地方。我热衷于收藏古董、具有历史价值的奇物以及书籍。只要把我带到古老的遗迹、昔日的战场,或是那些背后有着动人故事的石块堆前,我就会开心得不得了。
本周我和家人正在克里特岛旅行,此行的亮点之一本应是参观克诺索斯宫。我是在学校里第一次了解到克诺索斯和米诺斯文明的,多年来我一直期待着能亲自去看看。
从我们下榻的哈尼亚出发,驱车约三小时后我们抵达了克诺索斯。毫不意外,那里人头攒动,不过入场过程倒是迅速且井然有序。
然而……什么都没有。
我曾在罗马、庞贝以及无数其他历史遗迹中穿行于熙熙攘攘的人群之中。它们依然成功地吸引了我的注意力。而在克诺索斯遗址,我则完全没有任何共鸣。什么感觉都没有,一丝一毫都没有。
除了几块信息牌外,似乎几乎没有采取什么措施来让游客更好地领略这个非凡之地的魅力,或是详细解释他们所看到的景象。实际上,我们在参观过程中甚至不得不借助ChatGPT来进一步了解眼前的一切。
可惜的是……考古学家阿瑟·埃文斯爵士所进行的颇具争议的重建工作毫无帮助。为了重建宫殿的某些部分而使用的巨大钢筋混凝土块,使得遗址的不少区域显得极为刻意、不自然。这些材料非但没能帮助我想象米诺斯文明的世界,反而让整个地方显得单调乏味、毫无生气。
最令人沮丧的是:从理智上讲,你明白自己正身处一个非同寻常的地方。克诺索斯处于欧洲最早的伟大文明的中心。你知道,你脚下及周围的一切都有着数千年的历史。
但我就是无法感受到那种氛围。
我的妻子经常取笑我:当我站在那些在别人看来不过是堆旧石头的地方时,我会完全入迷——有时甚至会动情。通常情况下,历史就是以这种方式在我心中变得鲜活起来。
但在这里却并非如此。
转眼间,事情就发生了。我们逛遍了整个遗址,而我驾车返回哈尼亚时心里满是失望。
不过有一点能稍慰人心:我想起了与这一地区相关的另一段非凡的克里特历史——第二次世界大战期间,英国特种作战执行局的特工们与克里特岛的抵抗战士们联手,上演了一场堪比詹姆斯·邦德电影情节的行动:成功绑架了德国将军海因里希·克赖佩。对于同样酷爱历史的人来说,W·斯坦利·莫斯所著的《月夜奇袭》(1950年)中对该故事有着精彩的叙述。或许其他游客对克诺索斯的体验会大不相同,我真心希望如此。它的历史重要性是无可争议的。
但对于我这个历史迷来说,在期盼着能亲临克诺索斯多年之后,这座宫殿着实让我大失所望。