点评:I was keen to hike the Takherkhort Reserve Mouflon Loop, which is described as being a little challenging, with 1000 metres of ascent involved, but quite doable.
It is also described as being a 6-7 hour hiking circuit up and around the main central ridge, largely through forested areas, and with just a chance of maybe spotting the very rare Barbary Sheep higher up on the crags, whose protection is the main intended purpose of the Takherkhort nature reserve itself.
I always prefer to use local freelance guides when possible and so was pleased when Ouirgane Guides (Abdellatif) replied to my enquiry and said that he could arrange that specific trip.
The cost was to be 170 euro (Euro, not Dirhams) which I took to indicate that a professional and knowledgable local guide would accompany me. E170 is a lot of money.
So I agreed the price and sent 30% deposit, very much looking forward to a good experience, hiking off the beaten track, through a top quality nature reserve.
However, when I finally met my guide (Mohammed), he briefed at the start that we would just contour along to "the Lake" and that he would give a short history of each small village that we passed through.
It immediately became clear to me therefore that Mohammed had not been consulted previously and that I was to be fobbed off with a simple tourist stroll, nothing remotely like the Reserve Mouflon Loop, which I had specified and paid for.
"Do you think we might see a Barbary Sheep?" I asked him. His answer (me paraphrasing) was basically "not a cat-in-hell's chance. They are all up there on those high ridges".
"How long will the hike last?". "Four hours. We must meet the taxi at 2 o'clock. Then he has to get to the airport after he has dropped you off".
"Please get me Abdellatif on the phone. I must speak to him !". But Abdellatif was not available for some unexplained reason.
Cutting the story short, I ended up having that very simple 4-hour walk with Mohammed, mainly following a concrete irrigation channel, along the very lowest boundary of the nature reserve.
Disappointing is not the word!
Mohammed was good company and I think he tried his best to make amends.
It was not his fault.
I emailed Abdellatif the same evening and requested E100 refund.
He declined, saying (quote):
"I am sorry that the trek did not meet your expectations, and I understand why you were disappointed, especially as you specifically requested the Tassa-Takherkhort Reserve Mouflon Loop".
"Regarding the €100 refund, unfortunately I am not able to refund this amount. The €170 price covered the arrangements and costs for the driver, vehicle and guide, and these costs had already been incurred for your trip".
So, it is obvious that Abdellatif had in fact set out to deceive me right from the start.
So, I have been ripped off.
Beware this man!
翻译:我很想徒步游览塔克尔霍特保护区内的盘羊环线。这条路线被描述为略具挑战性,有1000米的爬升高度,但仍在可完成的范围之内。
据说这条路线全程需要6到7小时,沿着中央山脊一路向上,大部分路段都穿越在森林之中。在较高的岩壁上,或许还有机会见到极为罕见的巴巴里盘羊——保护这种珍稀动物正是设立塔克尔霍特自然保护区的首要目的。只要有可能,我总是倾向于聘请当地的自由职业导游。因此,当Ouirgane Guides的阿卜杜勒拉蒂夫回复我的询问并表示他能安排这次行程时,我十分高兴。
费用定为170欧元(是欧元,并非迪拉姆),这让我以为会有一位专业且知识丰富的当地导游陪同我。170欧元可是一笔不小的数目。
于是我同意了价格,并支付了30%的定金,满心期待着能有一段美好的徒步体验,探访那些人迹罕至的地方。沿着一个高品质的自然保护区行进。
然而,当我最终见到我的向导(穆罕默德)时,他一开始就说明我们只会沿着路线走到“那个湖”,并且他会简单介绍沿途每个小村庄的历史。
于是我立刻意识到,之前并未征求过穆罕默德的意见,而我得到的也只是一场简单的观光漫步而已——根本不是我预先指定并付费要求的“野羊环线游览”。“你觉得我们有可能见到巴巴里山羊吗?”我问他。他的回答(我用自己的话转述)大致是:“根本没可能。它们都待在那些高高的山脊上。”
“这次徒步要持续多久呢?”“四个小时。我们必须在两点钟与出租车会合。送你下车后,司机还得赶去机场。”
“请帮我接通阿卜杜勒拉蒂夫的电话。我必须和他谈谈!”但出于某种说不清的原因,阿卜杜勒拉蒂夫没能接电话。
长话短说。最后,我和穆罕默德进行了一次极其简单的4小时徒步——主要是沿着自然保护区最边缘的一条混凝土灌溉渠行走。
用“令人失望”来形容实在不够贴切!
穆罕默德是个很好的旅伴,我觉得他也尽力想弥补些什么。但这并不是他的错。
当晚我就给阿卜杜拉蒂夫发邮件,要求退还100埃镑的费用。他拒绝了,并回复道(原文如下):
“很遗憾这次徒步没能达到您的期望,我也理解您为何会感到失望。”“尤其是您特意要求体验‘塔萨-塔克尔霍特保护区野绵羊环线’。”
“至于100欧元的退款,很遗憾我无法退还这笔费用。170欧元的费用包含了司机、车辆及向导的相关安排与成本,而这些费用在您此次行程中已然产生。”
由此可见,阿卜杜拉蒂夫从一开始就是存心要欺骗我。
我被骗了。
大家可要提防这个人啊!