点评:Very disappointing tour overall. My girlfriend and I went on an overland tour Dec 28-30th 2025 to the Danakil Depression. While the places they took us were incredible and unique I was quite disappointed with Hamerland Tours. It appears the company is run by someone out of country (you pay a New York address) and Hamerland along with the other operators are very disorganized and care little for each person’s experience. While on tour our group did not have two meals provided, one person had no tent provided and slept in the car, two poor Italians were left without a guide and were pushed into our group after being left in the middle of Afar. We found out later 3 others from their group were driven around without a guide for their entire tour. Asides from being disorganized it also appears that the company guides are likely participating in a scam.
On Dec 29 we slept at the Hamedela campsite. We had dinner went to bed and went to the salt flats and geothermal area (which are amazing). During the tour my shoes got dirty and I went to clean them in the salt lake. Our tour guide for that day went by the name “Fsh”, he stopped me from cleaning my shoes saying “don’t worry about that we will do that later” and took the pot of water away from me stating the salt water would damage my runners (I only had caked mud on my soles). I didn’t care about dirty shoes, I only didn’t want to make a mess in the 4x4 for the guides. We then returned to Hamedela campground and to see it in the daylight was sad, it was covered in litter related to the tours with water bottles and feces everywhere as they have no garbage or toilet despite heavy usage. I’ve uploaded a photo to show the area we were asked to sleep in and this is a fraction of the waste from ours and other tours left behind. On arrival to Hamedela campground I was pressured by Fsh to allow the locals who were swarming us pushing, shoving, and fighting fighting each other, to clean our shoes. I felt uncomfortable and preferred to clean my own shoes for the villagers dignity and due to the fact I had little cash on me. I told Fsh this and he said “Let them do it, they want to” as they surrounded our group and were grabbing at the footwear. I made the mistake of relenting. They did a poor job pouring soap and water inside our shoes. Fsh stood by chatting with friends in the village as they did this to our every member of our group. One of the Italians took a photo of the surrounding mob and they screamed at my girlfriend as she is Ethiopian “Tell him not to take photos” in Amharic. The guide Fsh was 15ft away pretending not to notice and did not warn our group of this cultural sensitivity and continued to allow the villagers to pressure others in our group to hand over their shoes. Two in our group stayed in the Landcruiser as they felt unsafe and the locals made chicken noises at them through the window taunting them to come out of the vehicle. The locals then demanded 500 birr for the return of each pair of shoes without previously agreeing to this very high price and our guide implying this was part of the tour and included. Two pair of shoes were taken without permission and washed. I offered the 30 birr I had on me and they refused to return the shoes and hid them in a hut down the road. I told them they could have the shoes and went and spoke with the Fsh. 10 min later Fsh yelled at them to bring back the shoes, which they did. Without my knowledge someone in the group quietly paid four of them 500 birr each in an attempt to settle the conflict with the locals who were accusing us of cheating them. Their ring leader returned my shoes and then once Fsh went to hang out with his friends in a hut attempted to pick a fight with a large stone in his hand insulting me in Amharic to my girlfiend. Meanwhile, villagers surrounded a 24 year old woman in our group who didn’t have her shoes washed and demanded she pay 500 birr. All the while it is unclear why we even returned to Hamedela campground as it is not on the route of our next destination and our plan was to have lunch on the way to Erta Ale. Given the ongoing threats, intimidation for money and no clear reason for being there, and me being unwilling to leave the 4x4 due to concern of our items being stolen (the guide would not lock the vehicle and villagers would regularly attempt to sneak into rummage in the trunk that had our groups bags) I went to Fsh. Admittedly I was quite angry at this point as I feel it is very likely he has an agreement with the villagers to get a portion of the money that was extorted from us, to tell him that the group would like to go for safety reasons and ask why we are still there. Fsh stated we were waiting on another car and dismissed our safety concerns stating he has been in this village for 14 years and that everything is fine, further yells at the locals to get away from the group and the car. Then minutes later says the 2nd vehicle has a second flat tire and we will wait at least several more hours for a tire change (they had used their only spare the day before). He then watches as another tour group arrives and chats with friends as the same shoe cleaning scheme unfolds again and he stands by chatting with friends then goes back in the tent leaving our group outside as the others had their shoes taken. After what we have seen I’m quite certain there are multiple tour companies and guides participating in this scam in which they clean up easily 10x the daily wage of an Ethiopian worker in hours using confusion and intimidation.
The rest of the tour was OK. The guides are pleasant. Unfortunately all these tours operators do not pack out garbage and have no pits for the washroom despite high volumes of people so while everywhere we went was unique and beautiful, you could not help but see the environmental damage you were causing as a tourist participating in these tours. The Danakil Depression tour was very overpriced at $350 for 3 days for what was provided and I fear very little is given to the local economy, including the guides, which desperately needs it and therefore has resorted to schemes to fleece tourists of their money. Finally, since Erta Ale’s eruption in Nov 2025 there is nothing visible from the caldera rim, so you cannot see any lava as before. While I did get to see an amazing part of the world currently quite difficult to access, I feel Hamerland tours did little improve the local economy and environment or ensure a good guest experience and safety.
翻译:这次旅行总体来说非常令人失望。我和女友于2025年12月28日至30日参加了哈默兰旅行社(Hamerland Tours)组织的达纳基勒洼地陆路旅行团。虽然他们带我们去的地方确实令人惊叹且独一无二,但我对这家旅行社非常失望。这家公司似乎由国外人士运营(我们支付的是一个纽约地址),哈默兰和其他一些旅行社一样,组织混乱,对游客的体验漠不关心。旅行期间,我们团有两餐没有安排,一位游客没有帐篷,只能睡在车里。还有两位可怜的意大利游客被丢在阿法尔地区,没有导游,被强行安排到我们团里。后来我们才知道,他们团里还有三位游客在整个旅程中都没有导游。除了组织混乱之外,这家旅行社的导游似乎也参与了诈骗活动。
12月29日,我们在哈梅德拉营地过夜。我们吃了晚饭,然后去盐滩和地热区(那里非常壮观)。旅途中我的鞋子弄脏了,就去盐湖里清洗。那天我们的导游叫“Fsh”,他阻止我洗鞋,说“别担心,我们待会儿再洗”,然后把水壶从我手里拿走,说盐水会损坏我的运动鞋(其实我鞋底只是沾了一层泥)。我不在乎鞋子脏不脏,只是不想弄脏四驱车,让导游们不高兴。之后我们回到了哈梅德拉营地,白天看到营地的景象令人难过,到处都是旅行团留下的垃圾,水瓶和粪便随处可见,尽管游客很多,但营地既没有垃圾桶也没有厕所。我上传了一张照片,展示了我们被安排睡觉的地方,而这只是我们和其他旅行团留下的垃圾的一小部分。到达哈梅德拉营地后,Fsh 一直催促我让那些围着我们推搡、争吵不休的当地人帮我们洗鞋。我感到很不自在,为了维护村民的尊严,也因为我身上没多少钱,我宁愿自己擦鞋。我把这事告诉了Fsh,他却说“让他们擦吧,他们想擦就擦”,说着就围住了我们,开始抓我们的鞋子。我犯了个错误,妥协了。他们把肥皂水倒进鞋里,但洗得并不干净。Fsh站在一旁和村里的朋友聊天,看着他们这样对待我们团里的每一个人。一个意大利人拍下了围观人群的照片,他们冲着我的女朋友大喊,因为她是埃塞俄比亚人,用阿姆哈拉语喊道:“告诉他别拍照!”导游Fsh当时就在15英尺外,假装没看见,也没有提醒我们注意这种文化习俗,反而任由村民们强迫我们团里的其他人交出鞋子。我们团里有两个人因为觉得不安全而留在陆地巡洋舰里,当地人透过车窗发出鸡叫声,挑衅他们下车。当地人随后索要每双鞋500比尔作为归还费用,而我们之前并未同意这个高价,我们的导游也暗示这是行程的一部分,包含在内。他们未经允许拿走了两双鞋并进行了清洗。我拿出身上仅有的30比尔,他们却拒绝归还,并将鞋子藏在路边的一间小屋里。我告诉他们可以把鞋子拿走,然后去找了Fsh。10分钟后,Fsh冲他们大喊让他们把鞋子还回来,他们照做了。我毫不知情的情况下,团队里有人悄悄地给了其中四个人每人500比尔,试图平息与当地人的冲突,因为当地人指责我们欺骗他们。他们的头目归还了我的鞋子,之后Fsh去小屋和他的朋友们聚会时,手里拿着一块大石头,试图挑衅,并用阿姆哈拉语当着我女朋友的面侮辱我。与此同时,村民们围住了我们团里一位24岁的女子,因为她的鞋子没洗干净,村民们勒索她500比尔。我们一直不明白为什么还要回到哈梅德拉营地,因为它不在我们下一个目的地的路线上,而且我们原本计划在去埃尔塔阿雷火山的路上吃午饭。鉴于我们不断受到威胁和勒索,而且没有明确的理由待在那里,再加上我担心行李被盗(向导不肯锁车,村民们经常试图偷偷翻找我们放在后备箱里的行李),我不敢离开四驱车,于是去找了Fsh。说实话,我当时很生气,因为我觉得他很可能和村民们有某种默契,能从我们被勒索的钱里分一杯羹。我告诉他,我们团是为了安全起见想离开,并问他为什么我们还待在那里。 Fsh 声称我们正在等另一辆车,并驳斥了我们的安全担忧,声称他在这个村子里住了 14 年,一切都很好,还大声呵斥当地人远离这群人和这辆车。几分钟后,他又说第二辆车的轮胎也爆了,我们至少还要等几个小时才能换胎(他们前一天已经用掉了唯一的备胎)。然后,他看着另一个旅行团到达,和朋友们聊天,同样的擦鞋骗局再次上演。他站在一旁和朋友聊天,然后回到帐篷里,把我们这组人留在外面,而其他人的鞋子已经被拿走了。目睹这一切后,我确信有很多旅行社和导游参与了这种骗局,他们利用混乱和恐吓,在几个小时内就能轻松赚到相当于埃塞俄比亚工人日薪十倍的钱。
剩下的行程还可以。导游们都很友善。可惜的是,所有这些旅行社都不带走垃圾,而且尽管游客很多,也没有设置厕所的坑。所以,虽然我们去的每个地方都独具特色、风景优美,但作为游客,你无法忽视自己对环境造成的破坏。达纳基勒洼地之旅价格过高,三天行程就要350美元,提供的服务却少得可怜。我担心这趟旅行对当地经济几乎没有任何益处,包括导游的收入,而当地经济急需发展,因此他们不得不采取各种手段来榨取游客的钱财。此外,由于埃尔塔阿雷火山在2025年11月喷发,从火山口边缘已经看不到任何东西,所以你再也看不到以前那种熔岩景观了。虽然我确实有机会领略到这片目前难以到达的壮丽景色,但我感觉哈默兰旅游公司并没有为当地经济和环境带来多少改善,也没有为游客提供良好的体验和安全保障。