点评:I've been on plenty of trips but this was a once in a lifetime journey: nine days in Gwaii Haanas that filled my heart (and my tummy).
The food first: something different, creative, and genuinely beautiful every single day, all cooked by Courtenay in a tiny galley in the middle of nowhere. I have no idea how she did it.
The crew were the real magic. Russ (owner/captain) taught us about ecosystems in a way that never felt like a lecture — did you know there are carnivorous plants in the bogs there? Gary could spot and identify whales from miles away (km if you're metric). Rob, a deckhand who's sailed the world, told stories like it was an Olympic sport. And James, an ER doctor in his other life, patiently taught anyone who wanted it how to actually use their camera. All of them funny, capable, and endlessly generous with their knowledge. I never once felt unsafe or like a burden.
The scenery and wildlife speak for themselves: orcas, humpbacks, puffins, bears, mountains and old-growth forest that make you feel very small in the best possible way. Standing next to those ancient trees filled me with deep gratitude.
And the ancient village sites, guided by the Haida Watchmen, were the emotional heart of the trip - heartbreaking history, but real hope in how hard the Haida people are working to keep their culture alive.
I came home sunburned, sad it was over, and with a full heart. Can't recommend this trip enough.
翻译:我参加过很多旅行,但这次绝对是一生一次的体验:在瓜伊·哈纳斯度过的九天,让我的心灵(还有胃)都得到了极大的满足。
先说说食物吧:每天都有与众不同、富有创意且真正美味的佳肴,全都是由柯特尼在荒郊野外的一间小厨房里烹制出来的。我真不知道她是怎么做到的。
而船员们才是真正的奇迹所在。Russ(船主兼船长)以一种完全不像讲课的方式向我们传授了有关生态系统的知识——你知道吗,那里的沼泽地里还有食肉植物呢!Gary能在数英里之外辨认出鲸鱼的身影(用公制单位来说就是几公里)。Rob是一名环游过世界的水手,他讲故事的本领简直可以称得上是一项“奥林匹克运动”了。而James平时是一名急诊室医生,他则耐心地指导每一个有兴趣的人如何正确使用相机。他们个个风趣幽默、能力出众,还总是毫无保留地分享自己的知识。我从未有过任何不安或觉得自己是个累赘。
这里的风景与野生动植物自会诉说一切:逆戟鲸、座头鲸、海鹦、熊群、巍峨的山脉以及古老的原始森林,它们以一种最美好的方式让我意识到自己有多渺小。站在那些古老的树木旁,我心中充满了深深的感激之情。
在海达守护者的引领下参观那些古老的村落遗址,则是这次旅程的情感核心所在——那里有着令人心碎的历史,但也能看到海达族人为传承自身文化所付出的艰辛努力,这又带来了真正的希望。我带着晒伤的肌肤回家,虽为旅程的结束而难过,心中却满是幸福。我极力推荐这次旅行。