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Pat A
Animal suffering tainted our entire Havasupai trip
哈瓦苏瀑布的点评
点评：I visited Havasupai with my husband, Patrice, from Thursday, August 27, through Sunday, August 30, 2026. What we saw happening to the horses, pack animals, and dogs tainted the entire trip. We saw horses so emaciated that their ribs, spines, and hip bones protruded, tied on very short tethers in the beating sun, with no shade and no visible water. Some were still tethered in the same places when we hiked out several days later. I had a visceral reaction in my body that I could not shake. Trying to enjoy the trip after witnessing those conditions felt deeply jarring. I could not put those images aside and enjoy the place as though I had not seen them.
We had not understood the conditions before going. The permit-booking process offered the option of adding a pack-mule service, and Patrice booked a pack animal before either of us knew what we would encounter. I wish we had had this information before making that decision. We only understood once we were there.
In and around Supai village, we saw dozens of horses that appeared severely underweight, with their ribs, spines, and hip bones visibly protruding. Many were tied to fences on very short tethers in direct sun, with little or no visible shade and no visible access to food or water. Several were in the exact same locations when we hiked out on Sunday as when we hiked in on Thursday. We did not observe them continuously and cannot say what care they received between our visits, but seeing them there again was distressing.
One of the saddest sights was two emaciated horses tethered next to each other in the beating sun, rubbing their faces against one another. My husband and I realized that both of their faces were covered in flies: they were helping each other get the flies off. Watching those two suffering animals try to give each other a little relief was heartbreaking. I deeply wish I had captured it on video so others could see what we saw.
Around some of the tethered horses, the ground was covered almost entirely in accumulated feces and urine, leaving little or no visibly clean space to stand or lie down. In the village, we also saw horses apparently trying to drink from an empty trough or container. That empty trough was in the village, not at Hilltop.
The working pack animals generally appeared to be in better body condition than many of the horses kept in the village. Even so, some had visible scarring, areas of hair loss, and unusually short or damaged-looking tails. We also saw drops of blood on portions of the trail. We could not determine whether the blood came from the animals' hooves or another source.
On the trail, we saw pack animals panting heavily, with no access to water that we could see while they were working. We saw pack strings being moved quickly uphill over very rugged terrain, including animals apparently being driven at a fast pace back up to retrieve luggage. They were tethered together on very short lead lines. There was so little spacing that their ability to turn their heads, reposition themselves, and safely see where they were placing their feet appeared restricted.
At Hilltop, after the roughly 10–11-mile climb out of the canyon and the steep switchbacks in temperatures above 100°F, we saw pack animals gathered with no visible food or water available. Seeing those animals at the end of that climb, with no water available that we could see where they were gathered, was deeply troubling.
We also saw at least one very large packer riding a horse. He appeared to us to weigh well over 300 pounds; that was our visual impression, not a measured weight. Patrice was particularly struck by this because he has previously been considered too heavy for horseback riding, and this rider appeared larger than him. We were concerned about the total load being placed on the horse during such a strenuous climb.
The dogs were distressing too. Several appeared severely underweight, with visible ribs and no food or water that we could see. Some wore collars and appeared to have owners. Others accompanied or appeared to work alongside the pack strings on the trail. One dog, Sugar, had what looked like an injured front paw or leg and walked with a severe limp over multiple days of our visit.
A woman working at the ranger station told us veterinary care was not available in the village. We could not independently verify that statement, but it was very concerning given Sugar's limp and the condition of the other animals.
A local woman working at the ranger station also told us that approximately $250 of the roughly $400 campers pay for a pack mule goes to the Tribe. She said food flown into the canyon had to be prioritized for tribal members and working animals, and attributed the condition of the non-working horses partly to that scarcity. We cannot independently verify those figures or explanations. They left us asking why so many non-working animals were being kept if there were not enough resources to feed and care for them adequately.
We wanted to document what we saw. We did not take photographs because we saw signs, understood the rules to prohibit photography in the village, and wanted to respect them. But that was not the whole reason. We also felt unwelcome, and taking photographs did not feel safe to us.
What we saw was awful, and it stayed with me throughout the trip. The horses' protruding bones, the short tethers, the filthy ground, the empty trough, and Sugar limping were not things I could forget once we reached the campground. I struggled to enjoy the trip while knowing what we had already seen. The distress was visceral, and it colored the entire experience.
While we were still at the campground, Patrice and I promised each other that we would not go home, return to normal life, and forget. We have not forgotten. We want to help, and we want future visitors to know what we witnessed before they book a permit or a pack animal. I wish someone had made these conditions clear to us before we went.
Aliza and Patrice
We had not understood the conditions before going. The permit-booking process offered the option of adding a pack-mule service, and Patrice booked a pack animal before either of us knew what we would encounter. I wish we had had this information before making that decision. We only understood once we were there.
In and around Supai village, we saw dozens of horses that appeared severely underweight, with their ribs, spines, and hip bones visibly protruding. Many were tied to fences on very short tethers in direct sun, with little or no visible shade and no visible access to food or water. Several were in the exact same locations when we hiked out on Sunday as when we hiked in on Thursday. We did not observe them continuously and cannot say what care they received between our visits, but seeing them there again was distressing.
One of the saddest sights was two emaciated horses tethered next to each other in the beating sun, rubbing their faces against one another. My husband and I realized that both of their faces were covered in flies: they were helping each other get the flies off. Watching those two suffering animals try to give each other a little relief was heartbreaking. I deeply wish I had captured it on video so others could see what we saw.
Around some of the tethered horses, the ground was covered almost entirely in accumulated feces and urine, leaving little or no visibly clean space to stand or lie down. In the village, we also saw horses apparently trying to drink from an empty trough or container. That empty trough was in the village, not at Hilltop.
The working pack animals generally appeared to be in better body condition than many of the horses kept in the village. Even so, some had visible scarring, areas of hair loss, and unusually short or damaged-looking tails. We also saw drops of blood on portions of the trail. We could not determine whether the blood came from the animals' hooves or another source.
On the trail, we saw pack animals panting heavily, with no access to water that we could see while they were working. We saw pack strings being moved quickly uphill over very rugged terrain, including animals apparently being driven at a fast pace back up to retrieve luggage. They were tethered together on very short lead lines. There was so little spacing that their ability to turn their heads, reposition themselves, and safely see where they were placing their feet appeared restricted.
At Hilltop, after the roughly 10–11-mile climb out of the canyon and the steep switchbacks in temperatures above 100°F, we saw pack animals gathered with no visible food or water available. Seeing those animals at the end of that climb, with no water available that we could see where they were gathered, was deeply troubling.
We also saw at least one very large packer riding a horse. He appeared to us to weigh well over 300 pounds; that was our visual impression, not a measured weight. Patrice was particularly struck by this because he has previously been considered too heavy for horseback riding, and this rider appeared larger than him. We were concerned about the total load being placed on the horse during such a strenuous climb.
The dogs were distressing too. Several appeared severely underweight, with visible ribs and no food or water that we could see. Some wore collars and appeared to have owners. Others accompanied or appeared to work alongside the pack strings on the trail. One dog, Sugar, had what looked like an injured front paw or leg and walked with a severe limp over multiple days of our visit.
A woman working at the ranger station told us veterinary care was not available in the village. We could not independently verify that statement, but it was very concerning given Sugar's limp and the condition of the other animals.
A local woman working at the ranger station also told us that approximately $250 of the roughly $400 campers pay for a pack mule goes to the Tribe. She said food flown into the canyon had to be prioritized for tribal members and working animals, and attributed the condition of the non-working horses partly to that scarcity. We cannot independently verify those figures or explanations. They left us asking why so many non-working animals were being kept if there were not enough resources to feed and care for them adequately.
We wanted to document what we saw. We did not take photographs because we saw signs, understood the rules to prohibit photography in the village, and wanted to respect them. But that was not the whole reason. We also felt unwelcome, and taking photographs did not feel safe to us.
What we saw was awful, and it stayed with me throughout the trip. The horses' protruding bones, the short tethers, the filthy ground, the empty trough, and Sugar limping were not things I could forget once we reached the campground. I struggled to enjoy the trip while knowing what we had already seen. The distress was visceral, and it colored the entire experience.
While we were still at the campground, Patrice and I promised each other that we would not go home, return to normal life, and forget. We have not forgotten. We want to help, and we want future visitors to know what we witnessed before they book a permit or a pack animal. I wish someone had made these conditions clear to us before we went.
Aliza and Patrice
翻译：2026年8月27日星期四至8月30日星期日，我和丈夫帕特里斯一同游览了哈瓦苏派。然而，我们看到的马匹、驮畜以及狗的惨状彻底毁了这次旅行的体验。那些马匹瘦得皮包骨，肋骨、脊椎和髋骨都清晰可见；它们被用很短的绳索拴住，置于烈日之下，周围既没有阴凉处，也看不到任何水源。几天后我们徒步离开时，发现有些马仍然被拴在原来的地方。那种惨状在我心中留下了难以磨灭的印记，让我至今无法释怀。目睹了那些状况后，试图享受旅程的感觉实在令人别扭。我无法将那些画面从脑海中抹去，也无法装作没见过它们一样去欣赏当地的风光。
出发前我们并不了解那里的实际情况。在申请许可的过程中，有个选项可以额外预订驮马服务；在我们俩还不知道将会遇到什么情况时，帕特里斯就预订了驮马。真希望我们做这个决定前就能了解到这些信息。直到到了那里，我们才真正明白实情。在苏派村及其周边地区，我们看到了几十匹马，它们显然严重营养不良，肋骨、脊椎和髋骨都清晰可见地凸出体外。许多马被用极短的缰绳拴在围栏上，置于烈日之下，周围几乎没有阴凉处，也看不到任何食物或水源。周日我们离开时，有几匹马还待在周四我们刚到达时所在的同一位置。我们并未持续观察这些马，因此无法确定在两次探访的间隙它们得到了怎样的照料。不过，再次看到它们还是让人心痛不已。
最令人难过的一幕是：两匹骨瘦如柴的马被拴在一起，在炎炎烈日下，它们用脸互相摩擦。我和丈夫意识到，它们的脸上都爬满了苍蝇——它们是在互相帮忙驱赶苍蝇。看着这两只受苦的动物试图为彼此减轻一点痛苦，真是令人心碎。我真心希望当时能把这一幕拍下来，这样其他人也能看到我们所看到的情景。在一些被拴住的马匹周围，地面几乎完全被堆积的粪便和尿液覆盖，几乎找不到可以站立或躺卧的干净地方。在村子里，我们还看到一些马似乎在试图从空槽或空容器中喝水。那个空槽位于村子里，并不在希尔托普。
这些用于劳作的驮马的体况总体上看起来比村里饲养的许多马匹要好。即便如此，其中一些马身上仍有明显的伤疤以及脱毛现象。以及异常短小或看上去受损的尾巴。我们还在小径的某些地方发现了血滴。我们无法确定这些血迹是来自动物的蹄子还是其他来源。
在小径上，我们看到驮畜气喘吁吁，而在它们劳作时我们并未发现附近有水源。我们还看到成队的驮畜被快速驱赶着翻越崎岖不平的山坡，有些动物显然是被急促地赶回去取回行李。它们被用非常短的牵绳拴在一起。它们之间的间距极小，以至于它们转头、调整姿势以及安全判断脚下位置的能力似乎都受到了限制。
在希尔托普，历经约10到11英里的攀登、穿越峡谷并爬上气温超过100华氏度的陡峭蜿蜒山路后，我们看到那些驮畜聚集在一起，但周围却看不到任何食物或水源。看到这些动物在艰苦攀登后的样子……在他们聚集的地方，我们看不到任何水源，这一情况令人极为担忧。
我们还看到至少一名体型极为壮硕的骑手骑在马上。在我们看来，他的体重显然超过了300磅；这只是我们的直观印象，并非实际测量值。帕特里斯对此印象尤为深刻，因为他自己此前也被认为体重过重而不适合骑马，而这位骑手看起来比他还高大。我们担心马匹在如此艰难的攀登过程中会承受过大的负荷。
那些狗也让人心疼不已。好几只狗明显体重过轻，肋骨清晰可见，而且我们没看到它们有任何食物或水可吃。有些狗戴着项圈，看来是有主人的。另一些则跟随着马队一同行进，似乎是马队的伙伴。其中一只名叫“Sugar”的狗，前爪或前腿似乎受了伤，在我们停留的几天里一直一瘸一拐地走路。在护林站工作的的一位女士告诉我们，村里没有提供兽医服务。虽然我们无法独立证实这一说法，但考虑到Sugar的跛行情况以及其他动物的状况，这确实令人担忧。
另一位在护林站工作的当地女子还告诉我们，露营者为租用驮驴所支付的约400美元中，有250美元左右会归部落所有。她还说，空运到峡谷中的食物必须优先供给部落成员和用于劳作的动物。他们将那些马匹无法工作的状况部分归因于饲料的短缺。我们无法独立核实这些数据或解释。这让我们不禁疑问：既然没有足够的资源来妥善喂养和照料这些马匹，为何还要饲养这么多不工作的动物呢？
我们想把所见到的情况记录下来。我们没有拍照，是因为我们看到了相关标识，也明白村子里有禁止拍照的规定，我们希望遵守这些规定。不过，这并非唯一的原因。我们也感觉不受欢迎，拍照对我们来说也并不安全。
我们所看到的景象极其糟糕，这一幕始终萦绕在我心头。马的骨头都凸显出来，缰绳短得可怜，地面污秽不堪，食槽空空如也，还有Sugar一瘸一拐的样子——这些景象在我们抵达营地后便再也无法从脑海中抹去。明明已经目睹了这些，我却很难享受这次旅行。那种痛苦感真切至极，彻底影响了整个体验。
就在我们还在营地的时候。帕特里斯和我向彼此承诺：我们不会回家，不会恢复正常生活，也不会忘记这一切。我们确实没有忘记。我们希望能提供帮助，也希望今后的游客在申请许可或租用驮畜之前，能了解到我们所目睹的一切。真希望在我们出发前就有人把这些情况清楚地告诉我们。
艾莉莎与帕特里斯。
出发前我们并不了解那里的实际情况。在申请许可的过程中，有个选项可以额外预订驮马服务；在我们俩还不知道将会遇到什么情况时，帕特里斯就预订了驮马。真希望我们做这个决定前就能了解到这些信息。直到到了那里，我们才真正明白实情。在苏派村及其周边地区，我们看到了几十匹马，它们显然严重营养不良，肋骨、脊椎和髋骨都清晰可见地凸出体外。许多马被用极短的缰绳拴在围栏上，置于烈日之下，周围几乎没有阴凉处，也看不到任何食物或水源。周日我们离开时，有几匹马还待在周四我们刚到达时所在的同一位置。我们并未持续观察这些马，因此无法确定在两次探访的间隙它们得到了怎样的照料。不过，再次看到它们还是让人心痛不已。
最令人难过的一幕是：两匹骨瘦如柴的马被拴在一起，在炎炎烈日下，它们用脸互相摩擦。我和丈夫意识到，它们的脸上都爬满了苍蝇——它们是在互相帮忙驱赶苍蝇。看着这两只受苦的动物试图为彼此减轻一点痛苦，真是令人心碎。我真心希望当时能把这一幕拍下来，这样其他人也能看到我们所看到的情景。在一些被拴住的马匹周围，地面几乎完全被堆积的粪便和尿液覆盖，几乎找不到可以站立或躺卧的干净地方。在村子里，我们还看到一些马似乎在试图从空槽或空容器中喝水。那个空槽位于村子里，并不在希尔托普。
这些用于劳作的驮马的体况总体上看起来比村里饲养的许多马匹要好。即便如此，其中一些马身上仍有明显的伤疤以及脱毛现象。以及异常短小或看上去受损的尾巴。我们还在小径的某些地方发现了血滴。我们无法确定这些血迹是来自动物的蹄子还是其他来源。
在小径上，我们看到驮畜气喘吁吁，而在它们劳作时我们并未发现附近有水源。我们还看到成队的驮畜被快速驱赶着翻越崎岖不平的山坡，有些动物显然是被急促地赶回去取回行李。它们被用非常短的牵绳拴在一起。它们之间的间距极小，以至于它们转头、调整姿势以及安全判断脚下位置的能力似乎都受到了限制。
在希尔托普，历经约10到11英里的攀登、穿越峡谷并爬上气温超过100华氏度的陡峭蜿蜒山路后，我们看到那些驮畜聚集在一起，但周围却看不到任何食物或水源。看到这些动物在艰苦攀登后的样子……在他们聚集的地方，我们看不到任何水源，这一情况令人极为担忧。
我们还看到至少一名体型极为壮硕的骑手骑在马上。在我们看来，他的体重显然超过了300磅；这只是我们的直观印象，并非实际测量值。帕特里斯对此印象尤为深刻，因为他自己此前也被认为体重过重而不适合骑马，而这位骑手看起来比他还高大。我们担心马匹在如此艰难的攀登过程中会承受过大的负荷。
那些狗也让人心疼不已。好几只狗明显体重过轻，肋骨清晰可见，而且我们没看到它们有任何食物或水可吃。有些狗戴着项圈，看来是有主人的。另一些则跟随着马队一同行进，似乎是马队的伙伴。其中一只名叫“Sugar”的狗，前爪或前腿似乎受了伤，在我们停留的几天里一直一瘸一拐地走路。在护林站工作的的一位女士告诉我们，村里没有提供兽医服务。虽然我们无法独立证实这一说法，但考虑到Sugar的跛行情况以及其他动物的状况，这确实令人担忧。
另一位在护林站工作的当地女子还告诉我们，露营者为租用驮驴所支付的约400美元中，有250美元左右会归部落所有。她还说，空运到峡谷中的食物必须优先供给部落成员和用于劳作的动物。他们将那些马匹无法工作的状况部分归因于饲料的短缺。我们无法独立核实这些数据或解释。这让我们不禁疑问：既然没有足够的资源来妥善喂养和照料这些马匹，为何还要饲养这么多不工作的动物呢？
我们想把所见到的情况记录下来。我们没有拍照，是因为我们看到了相关标识，也明白村子里有禁止拍照的规定，我们希望遵守这些规定。不过，这并非唯一的原因。我们也感觉不受欢迎，拍照对我们来说也并不安全。
我们所看到的景象极其糟糕，这一幕始终萦绕在我心头。马的骨头都凸显出来，缰绳短得可怜，地面污秽不堪，食槽空空如也，还有Sugar一瘸一拐的样子——这些景象在我们抵达营地后便再也无法从脑海中抹去。明明已经目睹了这些，我却很难享受这次旅行。那种痛苦感真切至极，彻底影响了整个体验。
就在我们还在营地的时候。帕特里斯和我向彼此承诺：我们不会回家，不会恢复正常生活，也不会忘记这一切。我们确实没有忘记。我们希望能提供帮助，也希望今后的游客在申请许可或租用驮畜之前，能了解到我们所目睹的一切。真希望在我们出发前就有人把这些情况清楚地告诉我们。
艾莉莎与帕特里斯。
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