点评:So this is a review for the whole area of abandoned sanitoria, not just this particular one. But if you have any interest in urban exploring, you will be in heaven in Tskaltubo. I won't be super specific because, 1. The area is changing rapidly in terms of what is accessible, 2. There are various states of danger, legality, and difficulty and each person needs to decide for themselves how much they want to take on, and 3. It's just more fun exploring for yourself and finding out, because that's the whole point! But I will say that the site is absolutely grand -just enough of a post apocalyptic scene to spark the imagination; but close enough to abandonment that you can still see the former glory of the place -a Soviet spa city from another era where workers (not just party elites) could come and have a surprisingly luxurious vacation.
The buildings are in various states of disrepair. Some were readily accessible, some had people living there even charging a small admission fee, some formerly had squatters and you can see the evidence of their lives, some I was completely alone, some I had to jump a fence, some I had to negotiate with guards, some I had to negotiate with dogs... who followed me around and acted as tour guides. So many adventures were had!
And just to round things out, there is one restored hotel and one restored working bathhouse.
You can probably find a small independent guided tour, but then you're on a cookie cutter itinerary and can't do as much as you would on your own. But the city is enormous and the sites are spread out, so it shouldn't be done haphazardly. I did a lot of research first, looking up blogs about Georgia and Tsakaltubo -there's one particularly good one from an Australian woman who lives in Georgia. I used her list on google mymaps. But then I also had maps.me downloaded for the area, which proved to be much more precise than google. I marked the ones I wanted to see, and went from there. Also a car is recommended -the place can be done on foot in a very tiring day, but it's large enough that a car is helpful. Traffic is light and free parking is everywhere. Then, armed with a good plan, I got an early start for a full day full of adventure. This was literally the highlight of the entire trip to Georgia for me.
翻译:所以这篇评论是针对整个废弃疗养院区域的,而不仅仅是关于这一处。不过,如果你对城市探险感兴趣的话,茨卡尔图博绝对会让你乐不思归。我不会说得太详细,原因有三:第一,目前可进入的区域正在快速变化;第二,各个地点的危险程度、合法性和难度各不相同,每个人都需要自行决定要承担多少风险;第三,自己亲自去探索、发现其中的奥秘才更有乐趣。因为这才是关键所在嘛!不过我得说,这个地方真是宏伟至极——既有恰到好处的末日后的荒凉景象来激发人们的想象力;同时又并未完全荒废,仍能窥见它昔日的辉煌:那是一座属于另一个时代的苏联疗养城市,普通工人(而不仅是党的精英们)也能在此享受相当奢华的假期。
这些建筑物都处于不同程度的破败状态。有些很容易就能进入。有些地方有人居住,甚至还收取少量入场费;有些地方以前有过 squatters(擅自占住者),至今仍能看到他们生活过的痕迹;有些地方只有我一个人;有些地方我得翻越围栏才能进去;有些地方我得与守卫交涉;还有些地方我得应付那些狗……它们跟着我转,还充当起了“导游”。真是经历了太多冒险啊!
最后再补充一点:那里有一家修复完毕的酒店,还有一家修复后仍在使用的澡堂。
你或许能找到小型的独立导游服务。不过这样一来你就只能遵循定好的行程安排,无法像自己规划时那样随心所欲地安排活动。这座城市实在太大了,各个景点也分布得很广,所以绝不能草率行事。我事先做了大量研究,查阅了关于格鲁吉亚和察卡尔图博的博客——其中有一篇是一位居住在格鲁吉亚的澳大利亚女子所写,内容相当不错。我把她列出的景点添加到了谷歌我的地图上。此外,我还下载了 Maps.me 来查看该地区的地图,事实证明它的精确度远高于谷歌地图。我标记出了想要游览的地点,然后便从那里开始游玩。另外,建议开车前往——虽然一天之内步行也能逛完,但地方实在太大,有车的话会方便许多。那里车流稀少,到处都有免费停车场。制定好周密的计划后,我一大早就出发了,准备开启充实而充满冒险的一天。对我而言,这绝对是整个乔治亚之旅中最精彩的部分。