点评:We stayed in the fortress village of Shatili as a base for our planned hike to Andaqi, two nights sandwiching a night away on our hike.
It really is spectacular, and it's remoteness has preserved tranquility that can be hard to find elsewhere, but two major points to note.
It's not easy to reach. It's 100 kilometres from the junction on the Old Military Highway to Shatili, the last 40 being ungraded. You need a very good SUV, if not a 4x4. This section should not be under-estimated: deep potholes; fords; and in places narrow or diverted where landslips have swept the road away. Not to be done in the dark, and an increased risk of falling rocks / landslips after heavy rain. But dirt bikers love it!
Secondly, don't pitch-up on spec. Accommodation is limited, and often there is no room available at the inn, so book ahead Likewise, food is not always available. We stayed at the wonderful Cafe Firefly (reviewed separately, but early September was approaching the end of the season so the chef had been stood down! However, the owner was available to organise dinner and breakfast with a local family. Simple food, but hearty and we didn't go hungry. But we did see others wandering around looking for an open cafe.
As a place, it can really leave an impression on the visitor, and it is a great base for hiking. It really is worth the effort to visit.
翻译:我们以沙蒂利的堡垒村作为大本营,计划在此徒步前往安达基。我们在那里住了两晚,中间还有一晚是在徒步途中度过的。
这里的景色确实令人叹为观止,偏僻的地理位置也使其保持着难得的宁静氛围,不过有两点需要特别注意。
这里不易到达。从旧军用公路的岔路口到沙蒂利有100公里,其中最后40公里还是未铺设好的土路。因此,你需要一辆性能出色的SUV,最好是四驱车才行。这一段路可不容小觑:路面上有很深的坑洼;有些地方需要涉水而过;由于山体滑坡,部分路段变得狭窄甚至完全被阻断。绝对不可在黑暗中行走,大雨过后落石或山体滑坡的风险也会显著增加。不过,越野摩托车手们倒是相当喜欢这段路!
其次,切勿贸然前往而不提前预订。当地的住宿设施有限,旅舍常常客满,因此务必提前预订。同样,食物也并非总能买到。我们下榻的是很棒的“萤火虫咖啡馆”(另有单独的评价)。不过,九月初已临近旅游季的尾声,所以厨师已经不在岗位了!不过老板亲自出面,安排我们与当地一家家庭一起享用了晚餐和早餐。食物虽然简单,但很丰盛,我们也没有挨饿。不过我们确实看到其他人四处寻觅着还在营业的咖啡馆。
作为一个旅游地,这里真的能给游客留下深刻印象,也是徒步旅行的绝佳基地。值得特意前来一游。