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Beautiful trail
O-Trail的点评
点评：Great trail overall and well worth the extra time and effort over the W trek. Gorgeous views and lovely to see some of TDP without the crowds that are present on the W side. Even on the O I would say you are 'glamping' - all the refugios/campsites have at minimum toilets, sinks and a protected space (large tent, hut or proper building) for cooking and eating.
TIPS:
1. Consider microspikes for the John Garner pass if there has been recent snowfall or there is snow in the forecast. We were two of only a handful who had them the day we passed over in mid-March, and everyone who didn't wished they had - we spent 4-5 hours on snow/ice (mid-thigh deep at the top), including some steep descent where those without spikes were trying to slide down the ice hanging on to the trees. Everyone made it to Grey, but we witnessed many falls and some very stressed hikers this day. If in doubt, speak to the rental shop in Puerto Natales - they told us that the local guides had been taking spikes, so we figured that was a good indication! With spikes the pass was still effortful, but we felt safe and were able to actually enjoy it. Keep in mind that the timeframe to complete the pass and how difficult people describe it as will vary widely with conditions - for us Perros to Grey took us 11 hours and was by far the hardest day of the hike. It was also awesome!
2. In our experience, the weather forecast is only accurate about 24 hours out in this part of the world. Before the hike our forecast was for 8 days of rain/snow and while we did get some of that, we also got sunshine on multiple days. So, if you get a crappy forecast don't despair, and if you go in with a good forecast make sure you're still prepared for rain and cold! We had an InReach mini and found the garmin forecast to be pretty spot-on when checked the night before. Was super helpful for planning what time of the day we would hike, especially on the shorter days.
3. The back half of the O trek is well trafficked but not crowded. Prepare for a change when you arrive at Grey campsite - the W is far more crowded and attracts people who have no knowledge or care for hiking etiquette...eg. people pushing past you midway through a hands-and-feet-scramble, or large tour groups who block the whole path. It's not all the time of course, but just know going in that you'll see some of this on the W section. It's a different vibe to the O.
4. On the plus side, the W section also has proper restaurants where you can show up without a booking and buy a very decent hot dinner eg. pizza or quesedilla. Recommend carrying fewer dinners and planning to buy some along the way once you reach the W. We bought food at Grey, Cuernos and Chileno.
5. The Italiano valley is stunning, make sure you leave time to go up at least to the first viewpoint. Gorgeous. They close the trail up from early afternoon - 2 or 3 I think was the latest start time.
6. Camp at Cuernos rather than Frances, the setting is much nicer. Whichever you choose, hang your food bag in the cooking area - mice are becoming an issue at these 2 campsites.
7. Be aware that the local rangers and authorities won't necessarily share important information unless you ask...like the snow on the pass, or the mice at Cuernos. Don't assume that if you're not warned, it's not an issue.
8. The water is labelled potable/drinkable at the refugios and campsites. However, we saw the same signage posted next to untreated streams in the middle of busy campsites in other parts of chile and argentina, which I would certainly not drink from without filtering. We filtered to be safe, but we were in the minority. That said, having a filter also allowed us to carry less water - there were plenty of streams to collect from along the way.
9. The signage at Cuernos says there is no cooking at Chileno, so we left our gas cannisters behind. On arrival at Chileno however, there were people cooking in the restaraunt...so...I dunno!
10. Book your bus back to Puerto Natales in advance. We were able to book the night before using the wifi at Chileno, but the slow connection meant it took us an hour to book, and we got two of the last seats. There were many people who reached the end of the hike by lunchtime but had been unable to book a bus until 8 or 9pm, if at all. Some hitchhiked, other squeezed onto our bus and sat or stood in the aisle. If you're doing the Torres for sunrise on the last day you should easily make the 3pm bus back to Puerto Natales. The shuttles from the visitor centre to where the bus picks up at Laguna Amarga are labelled as every hour, but in fact they started 20 minutes before that and ran loops until everyone was back at Laguna Amarga.
TIPS:
1. Consider microspikes for the John Garner pass if there has been recent snowfall or there is snow in the forecast. We were two of only a handful who had them the day we passed over in mid-March, and everyone who didn't wished they had - we spent 4-5 hours on snow/ice (mid-thigh deep at the top), including some steep descent where those without spikes were trying to slide down the ice hanging on to the trees. Everyone made it to Grey, but we witnessed many falls and some very stressed hikers this day. If in doubt, speak to the rental shop in Puerto Natales - they told us that the local guides had been taking spikes, so we figured that was a good indication! With spikes the pass was still effortful, but we felt safe and were able to actually enjoy it. Keep in mind that the timeframe to complete the pass and how difficult people describe it as will vary widely with conditions - for us Perros to Grey took us 11 hours and was by far the hardest day of the hike. It was also awesome!
2. In our experience, the weather forecast is only accurate about 24 hours out in this part of the world. Before the hike our forecast was for 8 days of rain/snow and while we did get some of that, we also got sunshine on multiple days. So, if you get a crappy forecast don't despair, and if you go in with a good forecast make sure you're still prepared for rain and cold! We had an InReach mini and found the garmin forecast to be pretty spot-on when checked the night before. Was super helpful for planning what time of the day we would hike, especially on the shorter days.
3. The back half of the O trek is well trafficked but not crowded. Prepare for a change when you arrive at Grey campsite - the W is far more crowded and attracts people who have no knowledge or care for hiking etiquette...eg. people pushing past you midway through a hands-and-feet-scramble, or large tour groups who block the whole path. It's not all the time of course, but just know going in that you'll see some of this on the W section. It's a different vibe to the O.
4. On the plus side, the W section also has proper restaurants where you can show up without a booking and buy a very decent hot dinner eg. pizza or quesedilla. Recommend carrying fewer dinners and planning to buy some along the way once you reach the W. We bought food at Grey, Cuernos and Chileno.
5. The Italiano valley is stunning, make sure you leave time to go up at least to the first viewpoint. Gorgeous. They close the trail up from early afternoon - 2 or 3 I think was the latest start time.
6. Camp at Cuernos rather than Frances, the setting is much nicer. Whichever you choose, hang your food bag in the cooking area - mice are becoming an issue at these 2 campsites.
7. Be aware that the local rangers and authorities won't necessarily share important information unless you ask...like the snow on the pass, or the mice at Cuernos. Don't assume that if you're not warned, it's not an issue.
8. The water is labelled potable/drinkable at the refugios and campsites. However, we saw the same signage posted next to untreated streams in the middle of busy campsites in other parts of chile and argentina, which I would certainly not drink from without filtering. We filtered to be safe, but we were in the minority. That said, having a filter also allowed us to carry less water - there were plenty of streams to collect from along the way.
9. The signage at Cuernos says there is no cooking at Chileno, so we left our gas cannisters behind. On arrival at Chileno however, there were people cooking in the restaraunt...so...I dunno!
10. Book your bus back to Puerto Natales in advance. We were able to book the night before using the wifi at Chileno, but the slow connection meant it took us an hour to book, and we got two of the last seats. There were many people who reached the end of the hike by lunchtime but had been unable to book a bus until 8 or 9pm, if at all. Some hitchhiked, other squeezed onto our bus and sat or stood in the aisle. If you're doing the Torres for sunrise on the last day you should easily make the 3pm bus back to Puerto Natales. The shuttles from the visitor centre to where the bus picks up at Laguna Amarga are labelled as every hour, but in fact they started 20 minutes before that and ran loops until everyone was back at Laguna Amarga.
翻译：总体来说，这是一条很棒的路线，比西行多花些时间和精力非常值得。景色优美，能看到 TDP 的部分景色，而西行没有那么多人。即使在 O 行，我也会说你是在“豪华露营”——所有的避难所/露营地都至少有厕所、水槽和一个用于烹饪和进餐的受保护空间（大帐篷、小屋或合适的建筑物）。
提示：
1. 如果最近下雪或天气预报有雪，请考虑在 John Garner 山口使用微型钉鞋。三月中旬我们经过的那天，只有少数几个人带了微型钉鞋，我们是其中两个，没有带的人都希望自己带了——我们在雪地/冰上呆了 4-5 个小时（顶部深至大腿中部），包括一些陡峭的下坡，那些没有带钉鞋的人试图从挂在树上的冰上滑下来。每个人都到达了 Grey，但我们在这一天目睹了许多跌倒和一些非常紧张的徒步旅行者。如果有疑问，请与纳塔莱斯港的租赁店联系 - 他们告诉我们当地导游一直在使用钉鞋，所以我们认为这是一个很好的迹象！虽然使用钉鞋，但通过仍然很费力，但我们感到很安全，并且能够真正享受它。请记住，完成通行的时间范围以及人们描述的难度会因条件而异 - 对于我们来说，从佩罗斯到格雷花了我们 11 个小时，是徒步旅行中最艰难的一天。这也很棒！
2. 根据我们的经验，这个地区的天气预报只能准确到 24 小时。徒步旅行之前，我们的天气预报是 8 天的雨/雪，虽然我们确实遇到了一些，但我们也有好几天阳光明媚。所以，如果你得到的是一个糟糕的天气预报，不要绝望，如果你得到的是一个好的天气预报，请确保你仍然为雨和寒冷做好准备！我们有一台 InReach mini，前一天晚上检查时发现 Garmin 的预报非常准确。对于规划一天中徒步的时间非常有帮助，尤其是在较短的日子里。
3. O 徒步路线的后半段人流较多，但并不拥挤。到达 Grey 露营地时，请做好准备迎接变化 - W 路线更加拥挤，吸引着那些对徒步礼仪一无所知或不关心的人...例如，有人在半路手脚并用地挤过你，或者大型旅游团挡住了整条路。当然，这种情况不是一直都有，但只要知道，你会在 W 段看到一些这样的情况。这与 O 的氛围不同。
4. 好的一面是，W 段也有正规的餐厅，你可以在那里不预订就来这里，买一顿非常不错的热晚餐，例如披萨或墨西哥玉米饼。建议少带一些晚餐，计划在到达 W 后沿途买一些。我们在 Grey、Cuernos 和 Chileno 买了食物。
5. Italiano 山谷令人惊叹，一定要留出时间至少去第一个观景点。太美了。他们从下午早些时候开始关闭这条小路 - 我认为最晚开始时间是下午 2 点或 3 点。
6. 在 Cuernos 而不是 Frances 露营，环境要好得多。无论您选择哪个，都请将食物袋挂在烹饪区 - 老鼠在这两个露营地已成为一个问题。
7. 请注意，除非您询问，否则当地护林员和当局不一定会分享重要信息......例如山口的积雪或 Cuernos 的老鼠。不要以为如果没有警告您，就不会出现问题。
8. 在避难所和露营地，水标为可饮用。然而，我们在智利和阿根廷其他地区繁忙的露营地中间未经处理的溪流旁边看到了同样的标志，我肯定不会不过滤就喝这些溪流中的水。我们过滤了以确保安全，但我们是少数。话虽如此，有了过滤器，我们携带的水也少了——沿途有很多溪流可以取水。
9. Cuernos 的标牌上说 Chileno 不提供烹饪服务，所以我们把煤气罐留在了那里。然而，到达 Chileno 时，餐厅里有人在做饭……所以……我不知道！
10. 提前预订返回纳塔莱斯港的巴士。我们能够在前一天晚上使用 Chileno 的 wifi 预订，但网速很慢，我们花了一个小时才预订，我们得到了最后两个座位。很多人在午餐时间到达徒步旅行的终点，但直到晚上 8 点或 9 点才预订到巴士，甚至根本订不到车。有些人搭便车，其他人挤上我们的巴士，坐在或站在过道上。如果你在最后一天去 Torres 看日出，你应该很容易赶上下午 3 点的巴士返回纳塔莱斯港。从游客中心到阿玛加湖 (Laguna Amarga) 巴士上车点的班车标明每小时一班，但实际上班车在 20 分钟前就开始运行，并循环运行，直到所有人都回到阿玛加湖 (Laguna Amarga)。
提示：
1. 如果最近下雪或天气预报有雪，请考虑在 John Garner 山口使用微型钉鞋。三月中旬我们经过的那天，只有少数几个人带了微型钉鞋，我们是其中两个，没有带的人都希望自己带了——我们在雪地/冰上呆了 4-5 个小时（顶部深至大腿中部），包括一些陡峭的下坡，那些没有带钉鞋的人试图从挂在树上的冰上滑下来。每个人都到达了 Grey，但我们在这一天目睹了许多跌倒和一些非常紧张的徒步旅行者。如果有疑问，请与纳塔莱斯港的租赁店联系 - 他们告诉我们当地导游一直在使用钉鞋，所以我们认为这是一个很好的迹象！虽然使用钉鞋，但通过仍然很费力，但我们感到很安全，并且能够真正享受它。请记住，完成通行的时间范围以及人们描述的难度会因条件而异 - 对于我们来说，从佩罗斯到格雷花了我们 11 个小时，是徒步旅行中最艰难的一天。这也很棒！
2. 根据我们的经验，这个地区的天气预报只能准确到 24 小时。徒步旅行之前，我们的天气预报是 8 天的雨/雪，虽然我们确实遇到了一些，但我们也有好几天阳光明媚。所以，如果你得到的是一个糟糕的天气预报，不要绝望，如果你得到的是一个好的天气预报，请确保你仍然为雨和寒冷做好准备！我们有一台 InReach mini，前一天晚上检查时发现 Garmin 的预报非常准确。对于规划一天中徒步的时间非常有帮助，尤其是在较短的日子里。
3. O 徒步路线的后半段人流较多，但并不拥挤。到达 Grey 露营地时，请做好准备迎接变化 - W 路线更加拥挤，吸引着那些对徒步礼仪一无所知或不关心的人...例如，有人在半路手脚并用地挤过你，或者大型旅游团挡住了整条路。当然，这种情况不是一直都有，但只要知道，你会在 W 段看到一些这样的情况。这与 O 的氛围不同。
4. 好的一面是，W 段也有正规的餐厅，你可以在那里不预订就来这里，买一顿非常不错的热晚餐，例如披萨或墨西哥玉米饼。建议少带一些晚餐，计划在到达 W 后沿途买一些。我们在 Grey、Cuernos 和 Chileno 买了食物。
5. Italiano 山谷令人惊叹，一定要留出时间至少去第一个观景点。太美了。他们从下午早些时候开始关闭这条小路 - 我认为最晚开始时间是下午 2 点或 3 点。
6. 在 Cuernos 而不是 Frances 露营，环境要好得多。无论您选择哪个，都请将食物袋挂在烹饪区 - 老鼠在这两个露营地已成为一个问题。
7. 请注意，除非您询问，否则当地护林员和当局不一定会分享重要信息......例如山口的积雪或 Cuernos 的老鼠。不要以为如果没有警告您，就不会出现问题。
8. 在避难所和露营地，水标为可饮用。然而，我们在智利和阿根廷其他地区繁忙的露营地中间未经处理的溪流旁边看到了同样的标志，我肯定不会不过滤就喝这些溪流中的水。我们过滤了以确保安全，但我们是少数。话虽如此，有了过滤器，我们携带的水也少了——沿途有很多溪流可以取水。
9. Cuernos 的标牌上说 Chileno 不提供烹饪服务，所以我们把煤气罐留在了那里。然而，到达 Chileno 时，餐厅里有人在做饭……所以……我不知道！
10. 提前预订返回纳塔莱斯港的巴士。我们能够在前一天晚上使用 Chileno 的 wifi 预订，但网速很慢，我们花了一个小时才预订，我们得到了最后两个座位。很多人在午餐时间到达徒步旅行的终点，但直到晚上 8 点或 9 点才预订到巴士，甚至根本订不到车。有些人搭便车，其他人挤上我们的巴士，坐在或站在过道上。如果你在最后一天去 Torres 看日出，你应该很容易赶上下午 3 点的巴士返回纳塔莱斯港。从游客中心到阿玛加湖 (Laguna Amarga) 巴士上车点的班车标明每小时一班，但实际上班车在 20 分钟前就开始运行，并循环运行，直到所有人都回到阿玛加湖 (Laguna Amarga)。
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