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OffTheBeatenPath
Expensive, beautiful view — but beware of itinerary changes
PeruRail - Titicaca的点评
点评：Four stars for the train, two stars for the bus portion and the communication.
Please note that as of mid-August, a portion of the train line near Cusco is closed due to a landslide. We received a notification by email two weeks in advance, but the pre-trip notification that followed did not mention it, nor did staff when we were at the station / on the train. I gather that most passengers assumed it had been cleared. It had not been, and who knows how long it will be closed. There was no note of the closure on their website.
The train itself is lovely — old-timey and spacious. You’re in armchairs rather than train seats, which is a bit awkward but they’re comfortable. The food and service are nice and the washrooms are spacious and well maintained. The views are beautiful.
The “shows” with a traditional band playing the Macarena and La Bamba for the tourists, as well as the “fashion show” where they display alpaca clothing that they later walk up and down the train trying to sell, are cheesy but par for the course, I guess. Many passengers seemed to like them and you can more or less ignore them if you don’t.
The trip costs a lot of money; to me it was worth it not to have to take the bus in the mountains from Puno to Cusco.
My main complaint was not that we had to switch to a bus (what could they have done? There are landslides all over southern Peru right now), but that the bus was not on par with what the train / cost lead you to expect. For a two hour trip from the end of the train to Cusco, the buses did not have washrooms and were very cramped. They should have communicated better — from the start of the trip — that the train would switch to a bus (and when). And they should have made it clear that the buses do not have washrooms, so you can go before you leave the train.
Also, don’t plan anything on your arrival as even if you can stay on the train, you will almost certainly be late. We had a long stop in Sicuani for no obvious reason, and would have been late even had the train gone straight through.
If you can do it straight through on the train, it is a nice, long, but leisurely day in a beautiful part of the world.
Please note that as of mid-August, a portion of the train line near Cusco is closed due to a landslide. We received a notification by email two weeks in advance, but the pre-trip notification that followed did not mention it, nor did staff when we were at the station / on the train. I gather that most passengers assumed it had been cleared. It had not been, and who knows how long it will be closed. There was no note of the closure on their website.
The train itself is lovely — old-timey and spacious. You’re in armchairs rather than train seats, which is a bit awkward but they’re comfortable. The food and service are nice and the washrooms are spacious and well maintained. The views are beautiful.
The “shows” with a traditional band playing the Macarena and La Bamba for the tourists, as well as the “fashion show” where they display alpaca clothing that they later walk up and down the train trying to sell, are cheesy but par for the course, I guess. Many passengers seemed to like them and you can more or less ignore them if you don’t.
The trip costs a lot of money; to me it was worth it not to have to take the bus in the mountains from Puno to Cusco.
My main complaint was not that we had to switch to a bus (what could they have done? There are landslides all over southern Peru right now), but that the bus was not on par with what the train / cost lead you to expect. For a two hour trip from the end of the train to Cusco, the buses did not have washrooms and were very cramped. They should have communicated better — from the start of the trip — that the train would switch to a bus (and when). And they should have made it clear that the buses do not have washrooms, so you can go before you leave the train.
Also, don’t plan anything on your arrival as even if you can stay on the train, you will almost certainly be late. We had a long stop in Sicuani for no obvious reason, and would have been late even had the train gone straight through.
If you can do it straight through on the train, it is a nice, long, but leisurely day in a beautiful part of the world.
翻译：火车部分值得四颗星，而巴士环节以及沟通服务则只配两颗星。
请注意，自8月中旬起，库斯科附近的一段铁路因山体滑坡而封闭。我们提前两周收到了邮件通知，但随后发来的出行前通知中并未提及此事，我们在车站或火车上询问工作人员时他们也一无所知。我猜大多数乘客都以为那段路已经疏通了。事实上并未疏通，谁也不知道它还要封闭多久。他们的网站上没有任何关于停运的通知。
这列火车本身很不错——具有复古风格且空间宽敞。乘客坐的是扶手椅而非普通火车座椅，虽然有点别扭，但坐起来很舒适。食物和服务都很不错，洗手间也宽敞且维护良好。沿途的风景也很美丽。
还有为游客们准备的表演：传统乐队会演奏《Macarena》和《La Bamba》。还有那个“时装秀”——他们展示用羊驼毛制成的服装，之后便在列车上来回走动试图推销。这些做法虽然有些俗气，但我想也在意料之中吧。很多乘客似乎都很喜欢，要是不感兴趣的话也大可直接忽略它们。
这次旅行的费用不菲；不过对我而言，能省去从普诺到库斯科那段山区巴士之旅，这笔钱花得也值了。我主要不满的地方并非我们必须改乘巴士这一点（他们又能怎样呢？目前秘鲁南部到处都在发生山体滑坡），而是巴士的服务水平远远达不到火车或票价所预期的标准。从火车终点站到库斯科这段两小时的行程中，巴士上既没有洗手间，车厢也极其拥挤。他们本应该从行程一开始就更清楚地告知乘客：火车会换成巴士来运行（以及具体时间）。他们本应该事先说明巴士上没有洗手间，这样乘客就可以在下车前先去洗手间。
另外，抵达后也别安排任何活动，因为即便能一直待在火车上，也几乎肯定会迟到。我们在西库阿尼停留了很长时间，却没有任何明显理由；就算火车没有停站，我们也会迟到。
如果能一路坐火车直达，那将会是在世界上最美丽的地区度过的一个漫长而惬意的一天。
请注意，自8月中旬起，库斯科附近的一段铁路因山体滑坡而封闭。我们提前两周收到了邮件通知，但随后发来的出行前通知中并未提及此事，我们在车站或火车上询问工作人员时他们也一无所知。我猜大多数乘客都以为那段路已经疏通了。事实上并未疏通，谁也不知道它还要封闭多久。他们的网站上没有任何关于停运的通知。
这列火车本身很不错——具有复古风格且空间宽敞。乘客坐的是扶手椅而非普通火车座椅，虽然有点别扭，但坐起来很舒适。食物和服务都很不错，洗手间也宽敞且维护良好。沿途的风景也很美丽。
还有为游客们准备的表演：传统乐队会演奏《Macarena》和《La Bamba》。还有那个“时装秀”——他们展示用羊驼毛制成的服装，之后便在列车上来回走动试图推销。这些做法虽然有些俗气，但我想也在意料之中吧。很多乘客似乎都很喜欢，要是不感兴趣的话也大可直接忽略它们。
这次旅行的费用不菲；不过对我而言，能省去从普诺到库斯科那段山区巴士之旅，这笔钱花得也值了。我主要不满的地方并非我们必须改乘巴士这一点（他们又能怎样呢？目前秘鲁南部到处都在发生山体滑坡），而是巴士的服务水平远远达不到火车或票价所预期的标准。从火车终点站到库斯科这段两小时的行程中，巴士上既没有洗手间，车厢也极其拥挤。他们本应该从行程一开始就更清楚地告知乘客：火车会换成巴士来运行（以及具体时间）。他们本应该事先说明巴士上没有洗手间，这样乘客就可以在下车前先去洗手间。
另外，抵达后也别安排任何活动，因为即便能一直待在火车上，也几乎肯定会迟到。我们在西库阿尼停留了很长时间，却没有任何明显理由；就算火车没有停站，我们也会迟到。
如果能一路坐火车直达，那将会是在世界上最美丽的地区度过的一个漫长而惬意的一天。
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