点评:Drove the famous Dempster Highway in late June/early July. We opted for a truck rental from Whitehorse (Driving Force) and extended the drive past Inuvik, by taking the Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk Highway to the Arctic Ocean. We encountered both extreme dusty conditions on the highway, and extremely muddy ones with heavy rains and heavy wind (to the point where many cars and bikers had problems driving through the mud, making the drive very slow). With a Toyota Tacoma (small truck), we did not experience any major problems, i.e. lucky not to damage the windshield, didn’t have to change tires etc, but the drive was slow at times, and the mud/clay on the bottom of the vehicle was insane. We used the car washes (in Inuvik and in Dawson City) 3 times just to get rid of some of that clay and mud. We saw many folks in small vehicles, SUVs and smaller, but based on our drive and multiple small paint chips near/on fenders and near back wheels, we concluded that it was the right choice to rent a truck versus driving our own SUV on that highway. The traffic was quite constant, depending on the area, i.e. in some parts there were lines of cars and much traffic going both ways; in others, we didn’t see another car for miles and hours. Quite a few very large delivery trucks going both ways too, that you have to be mindful of.
It took us two days to drive from Dawson to Inuvik going North, and we stopped quite a bit at all major stops (Arctic Circle, Yukon/NWT border, Tombstone Territorial Park) and other viewpoints; we stayed overnight at the Eagle Plains Hotel. Following the Dempster Highway Travelogue (available online or in paper form from Tombstone Visitor Centre) was actually really nice and provided a lot of information on the areas we were driving through. There are two ferries that you’ll have to take to do river crossings: CF Abraham Francis over Peel River and MV Louis Cardinal over Mackenzie River; they are both free and run pretty much on demand. The Peel River ferry cable broke just 2 days after our crossing with many people stranded for a few days. We drove back South from Inuvik to Dawson in just one day, because of changing weather, and the road conditions were quite rough.
The views and stops along the way were simply magnificent. We especially enjoyed Tombstone Territorial Park, Richardson Mountains and the very cute and picturesque hamlet of Tsiigehtchic. Folks we met along the way, i.e. in motels, at ferry crossings, etc were all super friendly, and checking in on one another at major stops, which was very nice. There were shocking numbers of mosquitos past the Arctic Circle and closer to Inuvik; make sure you have mosquito nets and Off Deep Woods (with deet) with you if you plan on leaving the car even for a moment. All in all it was a fantastic adventure. Don’t hesitate and go, but plan the drive well!
翻译:六月底/七月初,我们驾驶车辆走完了著名的邓普斯特公路。我们选择在怀特霍斯租车( Driving Force公司),随后继续前行,越过伊努维克,沿着从伊努维克通往图克托亚图克的公路一直开到了北冰洋。途中我们遇到了两种情况:一是公路上沙尘漫天,二是大雨和大风导致道路泥泞不堪(许多汽车和摩托车都难以在泥泞中前行,使得行车速度极其缓慢)。我们驾驶的是一辆丰田塔库马(小型皮卡)。我们没有遇到任何大问题,也就是说很幸运地没有损坏挡风玻璃,也无需更换轮胎等等。不过行驶速度有时会比较慢,而且车辆底部沾满了大量的泥土和泥浆。我们一共使用了三次洗车服务(分别在伊努维克和道森城),才把那些泥土清理掉一些。我们看到很多驾驶着小型车辆、SUV及其他较小型汽车的人,但从我们的驾驶体验来看,车辆的挡泥板及后轮附近出现了许多细小的掉漆现象。我们得出结论:与驾驶自己的SUV相比,租用一辆卡车是该公路上更正确的选择。交通状况因路段而异:有些路段车流密集,双向都挤满了汽车;而在另一些路段,我们连续数小时都遇不到一辆车。此外,还有许多大型货运卡车也在双向行驶,需要格外留意。我们从道森城向北驾车前往伊努维克,总共花了两天时间。我们在所有主要景点(北极圈、育空/西北领地边界、墓碑领地公园)以及其他观景点都稍作停留;我们还在鹰原酒店过夜。参照《登普斯特公路旅行指南》(可在网上查看,也可从墓碑领地游客中心获取纸质版)来规划行程真的非常不错,它为我们提供了大量关于沿途地区的相关信息。要横渡河流的话,需要搭乘两艘渡轮:一艘是横跨皮尔河的CF Abraham Francis号,另一艘是横跨马更些河的MV Louis Cardinal号。这两艘渡轮均免费运营,且基本上是按需启航。就在我们搭乘过后仅两天,皮尔河上的渡轮缆绳便断了,导致许多人被困在那里好几天。由于天气突变,我们只用一天时间便从伊努维克驾车返回了道森城,不过一路上的路况相当糟糕。沿途的景色与停靠点真是美不胜收。我们尤其喜欢汤布斯通领地公园、理查森山脉,还有那个非常可爱且风景如画的茨伊格奇克村。一路上遇到的当地人——比如在汽车旅馆里、渡轮上遇到的人——都极其友善,他们还会在各个重要地点互相问候、关心彼此,这真是太好了。在北极圈以内以及靠近伊努维克的地区,蚊子的数量多得惊人;如果你打算哪怕只是短暂地离开汽车,也一定要带上防蚊网和含有避蚊胺成分的Off Deep Woods驱蚊剂。总的来说,这是一次极棒的冒险经历。别犹豫了,去吧!不过一定要做好行程规划哦!