点评:Even if you have no idea who Thomas Wolfe was or what he wrote, if you have any interest in what life was like in an early-1900s boarding house, you should come here.
I was interested because I had previously toured a Basque sheepherder boarding house in Boise, Idaho, and I was curious to see how it compared with a more traditional Southern boarding house. I had never heard of Thomas Wolfe or "Look Homeward, Angel" until I watched the movie and went on the guided tour. Now I want to read the book.
The tour gives you a fascinating look at two very different sides of Asheville life during that era. If you couldn't afford to stay at a grand hotel such as the Grove Park Inn for around $5 a night, you could see what it was like to stay at the Old Kentucky Home, where at one point you could get a room and breakfast for around $8 a week.
But one of the most interesting people I learned about wasn't Thomas Wolfe. It was his mother, Julia Wolfe.
Julia came from poverty but had tremendous industry and business sense. She bought the Old Kentucky Home in 1906 and ran the boarding house for nearly 40 years, expanding it over time to 29 rooms. Our guide told us that she could be up before dawn preparing breakfast for the boarders, while Thomas remembered her still ironing after midnight. In addition to running the boarding house and raising a large family, she invested in real estate.
I couldn't help comparing Julia with another remarkable woman I had learned about during my time in Asheville: Edith Vanderbilt. Their circumstances could hardly have been more different, but both impressed me with their intelligence, resilience, work ethic, and business sense. Edith helped preserve Biltmore after George Vanderbilt died, while Julia built and operated a successful boarding house and helped provide for her family largely through her own determination and work. I hadn't expected learning about these two strong women to become one of the most memorable parts of my visit to Asheville.
The admission fee was only $8 for the guided tour. Tours were offered at 30 minutes past the hour through 4:30 p.m. when I visited. The movie was about 20 minutes, the guided house tour took about an hour, and you should allow additional time for the exhibits. I would plan on about 1½ to 2 hours altogether. The exhibit and film are free if you don't want to do the tour.
One thing that may be confusing when you arrive: although the historic house is on one side, you first need to go to the Visitor Center behind the house to pay admission, see the movie and exhibits, and meet for the guided tour. There is also a restroom in the Visitor Center.
The house was closed Sundays, Mondays, and holidays when I visited, but check the website for the latest days, hours, tour times, and admission prices before going.
I really enjoyed seeing what everyday life in an early-1900s boarding house was like, hearing about Thomas Wolfe's life even though I knew nothing about him when I arrived, and especially learning about Julia Wolfe.
I went because I was curious about the house. I left wanting to read "Look Homeward, Angel" and with a profound admiration for the woman who ran it.
翻译:就算你不知道托马斯·沃尔夫是谁,也不清楚他写过什么,但如果你对20世纪初寄宿屋里的生活状况感兴趣,那就应该来这里看看。
我之所以感兴趣,是因为此前我曾参观过爱达荷州博伊西市的一座巴斯克牧羊人寄宿屋,很想看看它与美国南方较为传统的寄宿屋有何异同。直到看了相关电影并参加了导览游览后,我才第一次听说托马斯·沃尔夫以及他的著作《向家乡招手,天使啊》。现在我想读那本书。
这次游览让我们得以深入了解那个时代阿什维尔生活的两个截然不同的侧面。如果你付不起每晚约5美元的费用去入住格罗夫帕克旅馆这样的豪华酒店,也可以看看住在“老肯塔基之家”是什么体验——在那里,一度只需每周8美元就能获得一间房间和早餐。
不过,我了解到的最有趣的人物并非托马斯·沃尔夫,而是他的母亲朱莉亚·沃尔夫。朱莉亚出身贫寒,但极其勤奋且具备出色的商业头脑。1906年,她买下了“老肯塔基之家”,并经营这家寄宿旅馆近40年,期间逐步将其扩充至29个房间。导游告诉我们,她常常天不亮就起床为住客准备早餐;托马斯则回忆说,他曾看到她在午夜过后仍在熨烫衣物。除了经营寄宿旅馆和养育一大家子人外,她还积极投资房地产。我不禁将朱莉娅与我在阿什维尔期间结识的另一位杰出女性——伊迪丝·范德比尔特加以对比。两人的处境截然不同,但她们的智慧、韧性、敬业精神以及商业头脑都给我留下了深刻印象。乔治·范德比尔特去世后,伊迪丝为保护比尔特莫尔庄园做出了贡献;而朱莉娅则凭借自身的毅力与努力,创办并经营了一家颇为成功的旅舍,从而养活了全家。我原本没料到,了解这两位坚强的女性会成为我游览阿什维尔时最难忘的体验之一。
导览服务的门票只需8美元。我到访时,导览服务从整点过30分开始,一直持续到下午4点半。影片时长约20分钟,房屋导览则需一个小时左右,此外还应留出一些时间来参观展览。总体而言,建议预留1个半小时到2小时的时间。如果不想参加导览,仅观看展览和影片也是免费的。您到达后可能会感到困惑的一点是:虽然那座历史建筑就在一侧,但您需要先前往建筑后面的游客中心支付门票费用、观看影片并参观展览,之后才能参加导览游。游客中心内还设有洗手间。
我参观时,该历史建筑在周日、周一及节假日均闭馆,不过出发前请务必查看网站以获取最新的开放日期、营业时间、导览时段以及门票价格等信息。我非常喜欢了解20世纪初旅舍里的日常生活,也乐于聆听托马斯·沃尔夫的生平经历——虽然去之前我对他一无所知。最让我感兴趣的还是朱莉亚·沃尔夫的故事。
我前去参观是出于对这座房子的好奇。离开时,我迫不及待地想阅读《天佑吾家》,同时对这位旅舍的女主人充满了深深的钦佩之情。