点评:Tucked away in an office complex set back a distance from Skippack Pike, Ristorante Castello might easily be passed by without notice. The only hint of its presence, a wisp of blue & white awning… But I’ve discovered that hard-to-find restaurants are usually well worth finding – and Ristorante Castello appears to be no exception.
Stop by for a quiet weekend lunch in a nearly empty dining room, and you’ll think the place hadn’t been found at all… On the other hand, drop in on a free-for-all Saturday night, as our party of six did recently, and you’ll get a much clearer picture. The night of our visit, the place was, quite literally, packed to the gills.
And the reason for its popularity quickly becomes clear: The northern Italian cuisine is carefully prepared and nicely presented; the prices, while not inexpensive, are certainly reasonable given the quality of the food; and the service, even in the midst of such mayhem, acquits itself with suitable distinction. In addition, patrons may tote along a vintage(s) of their own choosing, which certainly puts a less significant dent in one’s pocketbook.
To start things off, diners encounter a host of seafood suspects – mussels/clams/calamari fra diavolo, oysters Rockefeller & Blue Point – as well as salads of spinach, Caesar and caprese. In this case, though, I think I’d opt for the more traditional Italian preludes… bruschetta, for instance. The restaurant’s homemade bread is grilled, then brushed with olive oil and topped with fresh Roma tomatoes, basil & olive oil.
This is a relatively simple dish, a no-brainer, if you will… but a lot can still go wrong. Insufficient seasoning is a major culprit. Or if prepared too soon, the entire enterprise can degenerate into a soggy mess. On the other hand, if the bread is a bit too crisp & crunchy, it could crumble into oblivion at the very first bite, send a shower of diced tomatoes, et al., cascading into your unsuspecting lap, and necessitate an embarrassingly costly trip to your favorite dry-cleaning establishment… Fortunately, Castello’s benchmark rendition prompts no such worries.
The Carpaccio di Manzo is another sure winner. This is a typical Italian dish consisting of beautifully arranged raw, wafer-thin slices of filet mignon. It was invented and popularized by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice, and named after Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio. The beef is served with olive oil, lemon and, in this case, garnished with basil leaves and shaved parmesan cheese. If you are incurably carnivorous, this is a marvelously tasty starter.
La Parmigiana – layers of Italian eggplant and fresh tomato sauce topped with fresh mozzarella and finished in the oven – is basically a fancy name for mini eggplant parm. It wasn’t the greatest variation on this Neapolitan theme I’ve ever tasted, but still quite good… and a very comforting starter on a cold winter’s night.
Ristorante Castello’s pastas, which are available in both appetizer and entrée portions, are also worthy of consideration. Possibilities run the gamut… from penne pomodoro with red, pink, or vodka sauce to homemade potato gnocchi with gorgonzola to farfalle with diced salmon to ravioli stuffed with either vegetables or a combo of lobster, shrimp & scallops in vodka sauce.
Two dishes, sampled during that aforementioned quiet weekend lunch, however, were particularly enjoyable. The first was an excellent fettuccini Bolognese, eggless pasta smothered in a rich meat & tomato sauce infused with a touch of cream. But even better, in my opinion, was the Linguini Siciliano (pictured). Perfectly cooked al dente pasta was tossed with a winning combo of sautéed sliced mushrooms and crumbles of grilled sausage kissed by garlic and splashes of olive oil.
When it comes to entrées proper, the usual chicken, meat, and seafood dishes are all present and accounted for. I must admit, I wasn’t terribly thrilled with the piscatorial options on the printed menu. The Alaskan salmon and the grilled blackened tilapia, for example, are served over risotto; the former rice garnished with lobster, the latter with asparagus & crab; both of which I find entirely too rich for my palate. And since no substitutions are permitted, I immediately crossed these off my list of possibilities.
From what I’ve noted in several visits, the kitchen’s daily specials – both pesce and carne – are clearly the way to go here. And the accompaniments of luscious au gratin potatoes and mixed vegetable medley are an added bonus.
The Dover sole, served up with a traditional caper lemon-butter sauce was good but not exceptional. I much preferred the baked branzino, also known as Mediterranean Sea Bass. The flesh was firm yet incredibly moist and bursting with flavor. This dish is a winner in every respect and reason enough for a return visit.
For confirmed carnivores, the sumptuous veal chop, another daily special, is something of a must. Incredibly tender, perfectly seasoned, and completely free of excess fat and/or gristle, this presentation was clearly a table favorite. To my way of thinking, veal is the acid test for Italian kitchens… and Ristorante Castello clearly passes with flying colors.
Desserts, if you still have room, vary daily and are well worth considering. And be sure to wash them down with a shot of rich & potent espresso.
翻译:Ristorante Castello 隐藏在 Skippack Pike 不远处的一栋办公大楼内,很容易被忽略。它存在的唯一迹象是一缕蓝白相间的遮阳篷……但我发现,很难找到的餐厅通常值得寻找——Ristorante Castello 似乎也不例外。
在几乎空无一人的餐厅里安静地享用周末午餐,你会觉得这个地方根本就没被找到……另一方面,如果你在周六晚上随便来,就像我们六人最近做的那样,你会对这里有一个更清晰的印象。我们去的那天晚上,这里挤满了人。
它受欢迎的原因很快就变得清晰起来:意大利北部的美食经过精心准备,摆盘精美;价格虽然不便宜,但考虑到食物的质量,价格肯定是合理的;即使在如此混乱的情况下,服务也表现出应有的特色。此外,顾客还可以随身携带自己选择的葡萄酒,这样可以减少钱包的负担。
首先,食客们会遇到各种各样的海鲜——贻贝/蛤蜊/鱿鱼、洛克菲勒牡蛎和蓝点牡蛎——以及菠菜沙拉、凯撒沙拉和卡普里沙拉。不过,在这种情况下,我想我会选择更传统的意大利前菜……例如,意式烤面包。餐厅的自制面包经过烤制,然后刷上橄榄油,再配上新鲜的罗马番茄、罗勒和橄榄油。
这是一道相对简单的菜,如果你愿意的话,这是不费脑筋的……但仍然有很多问题。调味不足是罪魁祸首。或者如果准备得太早,整个企业可能会变得一团糟。另一方面,如果面包太脆太脆,那么咬第一口就会碎掉,西红柿丁等会毫不知情地洒落在你大腿上,你不得不花一大笔钱去你最喜欢的干洗店洗……幸运的是,Castello 的标杆版本无需担心这个问题。
Carpaccio di Manzo 是另一个必胜菜。这是一道典型的意大利菜,由精心摆放的薄片生牛排组成。它是由威尼斯 Harry’s Bar 的创始人 Giuseppe Cipriani 发明和推广的,以威尼斯画家 Vittore Carpaccio 的名字命名。牛肉配橄榄油、柠檬,本菜还点缀有罗勒叶和帕尔马干酪片。如果你是肉食爱好者,这是一道非常美味的开胃菜。
La Parmigiana——意大利茄子和新鲜番茄酱层层叠放,上面撒上新鲜马苏里拉奶酪,最后在烤箱中烤制——基本上是迷你茄子帕尔马干酪的别致名称。它不是我尝过的那不勒斯风味的最佳变种,但仍然相当不错……在寒冷的冬夜,它是一道非常舒适的开胃菜。
Ristorante Castello 的意大利面食有开胃菜和主菜两种份量,也值得考虑。选择多种多样……从配红色、粉色或伏特加酱的番茄通心粉,到配戈贡佐拉奶酪的自制土豆面疙瘩,再到配切丁鲑鱼的蝴蝶面,再到塞满蔬菜或伏特加酱龙虾、虾和扇贝组合的馄饨。
不过,在上述安静的周末午餐期间品尝的两道菜特别令人愉快。第一份是极好的意大利肉酱宽面,无蛋意大利面搭配浓郁的肉和番茄酱,并加入少许奶油。但在我看来,更棒的是西西里扁面条(如图所示)。完美烹制的弹牙意大利面搭配炒蘑菇片和烤香肠碎,再撒上大蒜和橄榄油,堪称完美组合。
说到正宗的主菜,常见的鸡肉、肉类和海鲜菜肴应有尽有。我必须承认,我对印刷菜单上的鱼类菜肴并不十分满意。例如,阿拉斯加鲑鱼和烤黑罗非鱼配烩饭;前者米饭配龙虾,后者配芦笋和螃蟹;我觉得这两种菜肴对我的口味来说都太油腻了。由于不允许替换,我立即将这些菜肴从我的备选名单中划掉了。
从我几次光顾的情况来看,厨房的每日特色菜——鱼和肉——显然是这里的首选。而美味的焗烤土豆和混合蔬菜拼盘则是额外的奖励。
多佛比目鱼配上传统的酸豆柠檬黄油酱,味道不错,但并不出众。我更喜欢烤鲈鱼,也被称为地中海鲈鱼。肉质紧实,但非常湿润,味道浓郁。这道菜在各方面都堪称完美,足以成为再次光顾的理由。
对于坚定的肉食爱好者来说,丰盛的小牛排是另一道每日特色菜,是必点菜品。非常嫩,调味完美,而且完全没有多余的脂肪和/或软骨,这道菜显然是餐桌上的最爱。在我看来,小牛肉是意大利厨房的试金石……而 Ristorante Castello 显然以优异的成绩通过了考验。
如果您还有胃口,甜点每天都会有所不同,非常值得考虑。一定要用一杯浓郁的意式浓缩咖啡来冲淡它们。