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A sublime oceanside experience on Haida Gwaii
海达屋Tllaal的点评
点评：An incredibly beautiful, remote location nestled into the impressive natural setting of Graham Island's central-east coast. But before more superlatives about the stunning setting and the amazing lodging, first I have to call out the incredible Haida House staff. Kathy and her team are super-friendly, pro-active, were unbelievably responsive to our travel drama, kind, compassionate, and eager to share their knowledge of Haida Gwaii.
We weren't the easiest guests to manage. Our original booking was for 2 nights in March. I failed to notice that the ferry arrived at 6 am and so I called to ask could we arrange an early check-in on arrival day. Kathy said, no problem and would you like a free upgrade to one of our oceanfront cabins? Wow. Yes please! One of the perks of traveling in the off-season when the crowds are non-existent.
This being the stormy off-season, naturally our Monday night ferry to Haida Gwaii was cancelled due to rough seas. We were lucky enough to get the last vehicle space on the Sunday night ferry. I sent a Hail Mary text to Kathy asking could we possibly check in a day earlier? When we arrived at Skidegate Landing at 6 am Monday morning, I received her reply: sure, come up at 11 am and we'll work it all out! And while you're waiting, have breakfast at Jags, the best place open at 8 am offseason on the island. She wasn't kidding; we loved Jags. After his scrumptious breakfast sandwich, I don't think I could settle for a mere egg mcmuffin.
The 40 km drive from Skidegate to Tlell runs along the Pacific coast and I rate it as a top scenic drive. Arriving at Haida House, Kathy and the team greeted us warmly and said the cabin is ready. After 2 nights sleeping fitfully on tossing ferries, this was exactly what we needed. We stayed in Cabin 11. All the cabin views are outstanding, but I think 11 may be the best. Haida House is affiliated with the Haida Nation, and care was taken to build the cabins in the traditional Haida longhouse style. The cabin is nestled in the pine trees behind a small barrier sand dune with the ocean a stone's throw away. The hot tub experience is amazing. See the photos.
The cabin side facing the ocean is all glass, floor to ceiling, so the views from inside are magnificient, it's as if nature has come inside to join you. The living room has a large and comfy sectional sofa with views out from every seat. While the cabin is not billed for self-catering, the fridge, sink, and microwave were enough for breakfast and lunch. (The restaurant is closed during offseason, so we could not sample the legendary Haida House cuisine.) The king size beds and pillows were super comfortable, and we fell asleep listening to the surf.
Outside, the beach is a 1 minute walk away. Haida House sits on the south edge of a long beach that runs dozens of kilometers up to the north shore. While some parts are sandy, this is the wild Pacific coast and most of the beach is covered with the best collection of driftwood I've ever seen. There's still plenty of room for easy trekking up the beach.
Oddly enough, there is a massive ultra-HD TV in the cabin, hanging in the spot where you would expect a fireplace to be. I guess some people cannot vacation without TV, even in such a quiet and remote place. Ironically, the WiFi signal at the cabin is not strong enough or dependable enough to stream anything, so the TV seemed pointless. Would rather soak in the scenery with a cozy fireplace, as it does get chilly along the Northern Pacific.
Kathy asked, how did we find Haida House? We saw it featured on the BBC's Race Across the World, season 3 episode 1 and that inspired us to replicate the same journey. Vancouver to Vancouver Island, drive 400 km up to Port Hardy on the northern tip, catch the 22 hour ferry ride through the stunning BC Inside Passage, then catch the 8 hour ferry ride to Haida Gwaii. It was well worth the effort! We had a good laugh with Kathy, who offered hilarious anecdotes about the BBC taking over the place and how the reality was a bit different from the TV program.
The lodge at Haida House has a fine collection of Haida art to enjoy. If you need any advice on ANYTHING on the island, just ask Kathy and team. Where to find Haida jewelry and art, where to eat out, where to trek, and even how to deal with a medical emergency. We spent some time at the Haida Health Centre in Dajiing Giids, 45 minutes away. The facilities are new and the healthcare was exemplary. Doctor Shooner and her staff treated a UK citizen just like their own.
It's not easy to get to Haida Gwaii. But you should make the effort; it is a magical and spiritual place. When you come, stay at Haida House.
We weren't the easiest guests to manage. Our original booking was for 2 nights in March. I failed to notice that the ferry arrived at 6 am and so I called to ask could we arrange an early check-in on arrival day. Kathy said, no problem and would you like a free upgrade to one of our oceanfront cabins? Wow. Yes please! One of the perks of traveling in the off-season when the crowds are non-existent.
This being the stormy off-season, naturally our Monday night ferry to Haida Gwaii was cancelled due to rough seas. We were lucky enough to get the last vehicle space on the Sunday night ferry. I sent a Hail Mary text to Kathy asking could we possibly check in a day earlier? When we arrived at Skidegate Landing at 6 am Monday morning, I received her reply: sure, come up at 11 am and we'll work it all out! And while you're waiting, have breakfast at Jags, the best place open at 8 am offseason on the island. She wasn't kidding; we loved Jags. After his scrumptious breakfast sandwich, I don't think I could settle for a mere egg mcmuffin.
The 40 km drive from Skidegate to Tlell runs along the Pacific coast and I rate it as a top scenic drive. Arriving at Haida House, Kathy and the team greeted us warmly and said the cabin is ready. After 2 nights sleeping fitfully on tossing ferries, this was exactly what we needed. We stayed in Cabin 11. All the cabin views are outstanding, but I think 11 may be the best. Haida House is affiliated with the Haida Nation, and care was taken to build the cabins in the traditional Haida longhouse style. The cabin is nestled in the pine trees behind a small barrier sand dune with the ocean a stone's throw away. The hot tub experience is amazing. See the photos.
The cabin side facing the ocean is all glass, floor to ceiling, so the views from inside are magnificient, it's as if nature has come inside to join you. The living room has a large and comfy sectional sofa with views out from every seat. While the cabin is not billed for self-catering, the fridge, sink, and microwave were enough for breakfast and lunch. (The restaurant is closed during offseason, so we could not sample the legendary Haida House cuisine.) The king size beds and pillows were super comfortable, and we fell asleep listening to the surf.
Outside, the beach is a 1 minute walk away. Haida House sits on the south edge of a long beach that runs dozens of kilometers up to the north shore. While some parts are sandy, this is the wild Pacific coast and most of the beach is covered with the best collection of driftwood I've ever seen. There's still plenty of room for easy trekking up the beach.
Oddly enough, there is a massive ultra-HD TV in the cabin, hanging in the spot where you would expect a fireplace to be. I guess some people cannot vacation without TV, even in such a quiet and remote place. Ironically, the WiFi signal at the cabin is not strong enough or dependable enough to stream anything, so the TV seemed pointless. Would rather soak in the scenery with a cozy fireplace, as it does get chilly along the Northern Pacific.
Kathy asked, how did we find Haida House? We saw it featured on the BBC's Race Across the World, season 3 episode 1 and that inspired us to replicate the same journey. Vancouver to Vancouver Island, drive 400 km up to Port Hardy on the northern tip, catch the 22 hour ferry ride through the stunning BC Inside Passage, then catch the 8 hour ferry ride to Haida Gwaii. It was well worth the effort! We had a good laugh with Kathy, who offered hilarious anecdotes about the BBC taking over the place and how the reality was a bit different from the TV program.
The lodge at Haida House has a fine collection of Haida art to enjoy. If you need any advice on ANYTHING on the island, just ask Kathy and team. Where to find Haida jewelry and art, where to eat out, where to trek, and even how to deal with a medical emergency. We spent some time at the Haida Health Centre in Dajiing Giids, 45 minutes away. The facilities are new and the healthcare was exemplary. Doctor Shooner and her staff treated a UK citizen just like their own.
It's not easy to get to Haida Gwaii. But you should make the effort; it is a magical and spiritual place. When you come, stay at Haida House.
翻译：一个极其美丽、偏远的地方，坐落在格雷厄姆岛中东海岸令人印象深刻的自然环境中。但在对令人惊叹的环境和令人惊叹的住宿进行更多赞美之前，我首先要赞扬海达之家 (Haida House) 的工作人员。凯西和她的团队超级友好、积极主动，对我们的旅行剧的反应令人难以置信，友善、富有同情心，并渴望分享他们对海达瓜伊的知识。
我们不是最容易管理的客人。我们最初的预订是三月份的两晚。我没有注意到渡轮是早上 6 点到达的，所以我打电话询问我们是否可以安排在抵达当天提前入住。凯西说，没问题，您想免费升级到我们的一间海滨小屋吗？哇。是的，请！这是在淡季旅行的好处之一，那时人群不存在。
这是暴风雨的淡季，我们周一晚上前往海达瓜伊的渡轮自然因波涛汹涌的大海而被取消。我们很幸运地得到了周日晚上渡轮的最后一个车位。我给凯西发了一条万福玛丽短信，询问我们可以提前一天入住吗？当我们周一早上 6 点到达 Skidegate Landing 时，我收到了她的回复：好的，上午 11 点来，我们会解决一切问题的！等待期间，您可以在 Jags 享用早餐，这里是岛上休赛期上午 8 点营业的最佳餐厅。她不是在开玩笑；她不是在开玩笑。我们喜欢美洲虎。吃完他美味的早餐三明治后，我想我不能只吃一个鸡蛋松饼。
从斯基德盖特到特莱尔的 40 公里车程沿着太平洋海岸行驶，我将其评为风景最佳的驾车路线。到达Haida House，Kathy和团队热情地迎接我们，并表示小屋已经准备好了。在颠簸的渡轮上睡了两个晚上之后，这正是我们所需要的。我们住在11号小屋。所有小屋的景色都很出色，但我认为11号可能是最好的。海达屋隶属于海达族，小屋的建造采用了传统的海达长屋风格。小屋坐落在一个小屏障沙丘后面的松树林中，距离海洋仅一箭之遥。热水浴缸的体验非常棒。看照片。
面向大海的船舱一侧从地板到天花板都是玻璃，所以从里面看到的景色非常壮丽，就好像大自然来到了你身边一样。客厅里有一张大而舒适的组合沙发，每个座位都可以欣赏到外面的景色。虽然小屋不收取自助式费用，但冰箱、水槽和微波炉足以提供早餐和午餐。 （淡季期间餐厅关门，所以我们无法品尝传说中的海达屋美食。） 特大号床和枕头超级舒服，我们听着海浪声睡着了。
外面，海滩距离酒店有1分钟的步行路程。海达之家坐落在一条绵延数十公里至北岸的长海滩的南缘。虽然有些地方是沙质的，但这里是野生的太平洋海岸，大部分海滩都覆盖着我见过的最好的浮木。这里仍然有足够的空间供您轻松徒步前往海滩。
奇怪的是，机舱里有一台巨大的超高清电视，挂在你期望有壁炉的地方。我想有些人如果没有电视就无法度假，即使是在如此安静和偏远的地方。讽刺的是，机舱内的 WiFi 信号不够强或不够可靠，无法传输任何内容，因此电视似乎毫无意义。宁愿带着舒适的壁炉沉浸在风景中，因为北太平洋沿岸确实很冷。
Kathy问，我们是怎么找到海达屋的？我们在 BBC 的《环球竞速》第三季第一集中看到了它，这激励我们复制同样的旅程。温哥华至温哥华岛，驱车 400 公里到达北端的哈迪港，搭乘 22 小时渡轮穿过令人惊叹的不列颠哥伦比亚省内航道，然后搭乘 8 小时渡轮前往海达瓜伊。这是非常值得的！我们和凯西开怀大笑，她讲述了 BBC 接管这个地方的搞笑轶事，以及现实与电视节目有些不同的情况。
海达之家 (Haida House) 旅馆拥有精美的海达艺术收藏品供您欣赏。如果您需要有关岛上任何事情的建议，请询问 Kathy 和团队。在哪里可以找到海达珠宝和艺术品，在哪里外出就餐，在哪里徒步旅行，甚至如何处理医疗紧急情况。我们在大井吉兹的海达健康中心呆了一段时间，距离酒店有 45 分钟路程。设施很新，医疗保健堪称典范。舒纳医生和她的工作人员像对待自己的公民一样对待英国公民。
去海达瓜依并不容易。但你应该努力；这是一个神奇而灵性的地方。来了就住海达楼吧。
我们不是最容易管理的客人。我们最初的预订是三月份的两晚。我没有注意到渡轮是早上 6 点到达的，所以我打电话询问我们是否可以安排在抵达当天提前入住。凯西说，没问题，您想免费升级到我们的一间海滨小屋吗？哇。是的，请！这是在淡季旅行的好处之一，那时人群不存在。
这是暴风雨的淡季，我们周一晚上前往海达瓜伊的渡轮自然因波涛汹涌的大海而被取消。我们很幸运地得到了周日晚上渡轮的最后一个车位。我给凯西发了一条万福玛丽短信，询问我们可以提前一天入住吗？当我们周一早上 6 点到达 Skidegate Landing 时，我收到了她的回复：好的，上午 11 点来，我们会解决一切问题的！等待期间，您可以在 Jags 享用早餐，这里是岛上休赛期上午 8 点营业的最佳餐厅。她不是在开玩笑；她不是在开玩笑。我们喜欢美洲虎。吃完他美味的早餐三明治后，我想我不能只吃一个鸡蛋松饼。
从斯基德盖特到特莱尔的 40 公里车程沿着太平洋海岸行驶，我将其评为风景最佳的驾车路线。到达Haida House，Kathy和团队热情地迎接我们，并表示小屋已经准备好了。在颠簸的渡轮上睡了两个晚上之后，这正是我们所需要的。我们住在11号小屋。所有小屋的景色都很出色，但我认为11号可能是最好的。海达屋隶属于海达族，小屋的建造采用了传统的海达长屋风格。小屋坐落在一个小屏障沙丘后面的松树林中，距离海洋仅一箭之遥。热水浴缸的体验非常棒。看照片。
面向大海的船舱一侧从地板到天花板都是玻璃，所以从里面看到的景色非常壮丽，就好像大自然来到了你身边一样。客厅里有一张大而舒适的组合沙发，每个座位都可以欣赏到外面的景色。虽然小屋不收取自助式费用，但冰箱、水槽和微波炉足以提供早餐和午餐。 （淡季期间餐厅关门，所以我们无法品尝传说中的海达屋美食。） 特大号床和枕头超级舒服，我们听着海浪声睡着了。
外面，海滩距离酒店有1分钟的步行路程。海达之家坐落在一条绵延数十公里至北岸的长海滩的南缘。虽然有些地方是沙质的，但这里是野生的太平洋海岸，大部分海滩都覆盖着我见过的最好的浮木。这里仍然有足够的空间供您轻松徒步前往海滩。
奇怪的是，机舱里有一台巨大的超高清电视，挂在你期望有壁炉的地方。我想有些人如果没有电视就无法度假，即使是在如此安静和偏远的地方。讽刺的是，机舱内的 WiFi 信号不够强或不够可靠，无法传输任何内容，因此电视似乎毫无意义。宁愿带着舒适的壁炉沉浸在风景中，因为北太平洋沿岸确实很冷。
Kathy问，我们是怎么找到海达屋的？我们在 BBC 的《环球竞速》第三季第一集中看到了它，这激励我们复制同样的旅程。温哥华至温哥华岛，驱车 400 公里到达北端的哈迪港，搭乘 22 小时渡轮穿过令人惊叹的不列颠哥伦比亚省内航道，然后搭乘 8 小时渡轮前往海达瓜伊。这是非常值得的！我们和凯西开怀大笑，她讲述了 BBC 接管这个地方的搞笑轶事，以及现实与电视节目有些不同的情况。
海达之家 (Haida House) 旅馆拥有精美的海达艺术收藏品供您欣赏。如果您需要有关岛上任何事情的建议，请询问 Kathy 和团队。在哪里可以找到海达珠宝和艺术品，在哪里外出就餐，在哪里徒步旅行，甚至如何处理医疗紧急情况。我们在大井吉兹的海达健康中心呆了一段时间，距离酒店有 45 分钟路程。设施很新，医疗保健堪称典范。舒纳医生和她的工作人员像对待自己的公民一样对待英国公民。
去海达瓜依并不容易。但你应该努力；这是一个神奇而灵性的地方。来了就住海达楼吧。
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