点评:Rode my recumbent trike from Baxter to Brainerd over Memorial Day weekend. I experienced some of the most beautiful moments I can remember, riding north out of Baxter in the morning. The white-barked birch trees leaned over the trail from each side, mingling their leaves above and creating a cathedral-like impression that inspired a sense of peace and calm in the cool morning air.
The feeling was much different farther north in Nisswa and Pequot Lakes, where crowds of people enjoyed the trail as it snaked past numerous small picturesque lakes and tiny resorts. The trail tied together miles of landscape and quaint little shops that everyone seemed to enjoy. Walkers and runners, in-line skaters, bicyclists, and even another recumbent triker out for the day.
North of Pequot Lakes, though, the trail goes through an unwelcome shift in character. The surface becomes punctuated with perpendicular splits of 1-2 inches in width; someone on foot would barely notice them, but they are maddening to someone on wheels. I felt the impact every 10-20 feet, jolting up through my spine. I needed to slow down to a crawl to save my body and my tires, which made the 90-degree heat and noontime sun doubly uncomfortable, and kept my arrival date at my motel in Pine River seemingly forever out of reach. The trees also changed to mostly scrub pine, which robbed the trail of every last bit of shade. It was truly a slog.
Starting out from Pine River the next morning, I was grateful for the coolness and the slight breeze. But the remaining 15 or so miles of bad road cut my speed way down, and I knew that I wouldn’t make it to Walker before the heat and sun became miserable again. The wetlands of this section were filled with mosquitoes, but a spray-down with repellent prevented all but one tiny bite to my knuckle on the entire trip.
Backus was very small, but Hackensack was a good-sized town where I got a nice lunch. The trail became better-maintained around that point, which I was thankful for. My speed was much better, and I started making up time. I decided on the Shingobee trail connection into Walker instead of the 15-ish mile trail through the hills, and I was glad I did—the heat, the lack of shade and the modest hills of the connection took enough out of me that I was starting to get concerned about heat stroke by the time I rolled into Walker.
After waiting out a raft of thunderstorms in Walker for a couple of days, I pushed on to Bemidji, my destination. The morning was again the best part of the day, and the trail out of Walker reminded me of my first morning in Baxter. Soon the day warmed up, and I was past the morning’s lakes and into more fields and farmhouses, and glimpsing the highway to the west. I finally came into Bemidji and found my way to the shore of the lake and my hotel. My 100-mile journey was over.
I have to mention the people I met along the trail. I’ve never been welcomed so warmly at every turn by most everyone I encountered. The Paul Bunyan State Trail is a real treasure and, while some areas would benefit from some TLC, Minnesota can be justifiably proud of this amazing resource.
翻译:在阵亡将士纪念日周末,我骑着我的卧式三轮车从巴克斯特到布雷纳德。早上从巴克斯特向北骑行时,我经历了一些我记忆中最美丽的时刻。白色树皮的白桦树从两侧倾斜在步道上,上面的叶子混合在一起,营造出一种大教堂般的印象,在凉爽的早晨空气中激发出一种和平与平静的感觉。
在更北的尼斯瓦湖和皮阔特湖,这种感觉却大不相同,那里有很多人喜欢这条小路,因为它蜿蜒经过许多风景如画的小湖泊和小度假村。这条小路将绵延数英里的风景和每个人似乎都喜欢的古色古香的小商店联系在一起。步行者、跑步者、直排轮滑者、骑自行车者,甚至还有另一位躺着三轮车的人。
然而,在皮科特湖以北,这条小路的性质发生了不受欢迎的转变。表面布满 1-2 英寸宽的垂直裂缝;步行的人几乎不会注意到它们,但对于开车的人来说,它们却让人抓狂。我每隔 10 到 20 英尺就会感受到一次冲击,整个脊椎都在震动。我需要放慢速度以保护我的身体和轮胎,这让 90 度的高温和正午的阳光加倍令人不舒服,并且使我到达派恩河汽车旅馆的日期似乎永远遥不可及。树木也变成了大部分灌木松树,夺走了小径上最后一点阴凉。这确实是一个艰难的过程。
第二天早上从松树河出发,我很感激这里的凉爽和微风。但剩下 15 英里左右的糟糕道路降低了我的速度,我知道在炎热和阳光再次变得痛苦之前我无法到达沃克。这个地区的湿地里到处都是蚊子,但在整个旅程中,喷洒了驱虫剂,除了我的指关节被咬了一小口之外,其余的都没有被蚊子咬到。
巴克斯很小,但哈肯萨克是一个很大的城镇,我在那里吃了一顿美味的午餐。在那之后,这条小路变得维护得更好了,对此我很感激。我的速度好多了,我开始补时间。我决定走连接沃克的 Shingobee 步道,而不是穿过山丘的 15 英里左右的步道,我很高兴我这么做了——炎热、缺乏阴影和连接处的平缓山丘让我精疲力尽,我当我滚进沃克的时候,我开始担心中暑了。
在沃克等了几天雷暴天气之后,我继续前往目的地伯米吉。早晨又是一天中最美好的时刻,从沃克出来的小路让我想起了在巴克斯特的第一个早晨。天很快就暖和起来,我穿过早晨的湖泊,走进更多的田野和农舍,瞥见了向西的高速公路。我终于来到了伯米吉,找到了湖岸和我的酒店。我的100英里旅程结束了。
不得不提一下我在路上遇到的人。我从来没有在任何时候都受到我遇到的大多数人如此热烈的欢迎。保罗·班扬州立步道 (Paul Bunyan State Trail) 是真正的宝藏,虽然某些地区会受益于一些 TLC,但明尼苏达州有理由为这一令人惊叹的资源感到自豪。